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I started asking Grok AI technical IS300 things

206 views 7 replies 2 participants last post by  kamilkz  
#1 · (Edited)
Hi guys,

Check out the below I copy/pasted from Grok. Arduino's are a bit outside of my swimlane, so I'm posting this here to see if it's wrong, hopefully it's not, but I'm sure there are errors. I can't trust AI fully yet. Especially since I saw a lot of the references it's pulling from are my.is and other forums. And then I asked it to draw me pictures based on the question lol, the pictures aren't laid out like typical wire diagrams, and are mostly not labeled, so I'd spend more time trying to decipher it than I would drawing my own diagram. Let me know what you think!

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Question
"how do I connect an mcp2515 with an arduino to a 2002 IS300. What is the BEAN code needed for the arduino. And what pins do I connect each wire to on the arduino, mcp2515 and IS300"

Answer:
Overview

The 2002 Lexus IS300 (JCE10 chassis) does not use a standard CAN bus for OBD-II diagnostics—it uses the ISO 9141-2 protocol (K-Line on pin 7 of the OBD-II port). However, the vehicle employs Toyota's BEAN (Body Electronics Area Network, also called MPX) protocol for multiplex communication to the instrument cluster and body ECUs. This is a single-wire, 12V serial bus (not differential like CAN).


The MCP2515 is a CAN controller, so it won't directly interface with the IS300's OBD-II or BEAN bus. A common setup for custom projects (e.g., engine swaps or gauge hacking) is to use the MCP2515 to read CAN data from an aftermarket ECU or adapter, then convert it to BEAN messages via Arduino to drive the OEM instrument cluster. This requires the BeanMPX Arduino library for BEAN handling and a CAN library (e.g., arduino-CAN by Sandeep Mistry) for MCP2515.


Warnings:


  • Tapping wires can damage the car if done incorrectly—use a wiring diagram and multimeter to verify.
  • BEAN is 12V; use a level shifter (e.g., optocoupler or MOSFET-based) to protect the Arduino's 5V pins.
  • Specific BEAN message bytes (e.g., for RPM, temp) must be reverse-engineered or sniffed using a logic analyzer, as they vary by model. Common resources include Toyota service manuals or forums like ClubLexus.
Required Components

  • Arduino Uno/Nano (or similar).
  • MCP2515 CAN module.
  • BeanMPX library (download from GitHub: fiztech-code/BeanMPX).
  • arduino-CAN library (install via Arduino IDE Library Manager).
  • Level shifter for BEAN (12V to 5V).
  • OBD-II cable or direct wire taps.
Pin Connections
1. Arduino to MCP2515 (Standard SPI Interface)

Use these for the Arduino to communicate with the MCP2515. Assumes Arduino Uno pins.



MCP2515 PinArduino PinDescription
VCC5VPower (5V)
GNDGNDGround
CS10Chip Select (SPI)
SO (MISO)12SPI Data Out
SI (MOSI)11SPI Data In
SCK13SPI Clock
INT2Interrupt (optional, for RX notifications)
2. MCP2515 to 2002 IS300 (CAN Side)

Since the stock IS300 lacks full CAN, this assumes you're connecting to an external CAN source (e.g., aftermarket ECU like ECUMaster or AEM) or using an OBD-II-to-CAN adapter (e.g., for PIDs via ISO-to-CAN bridge). If tapping stock wiring:


  • Connect MCP2515 CAN-H to CAN High wire (if available, e.g., via OBD-II pin 6—though not active on stock ISO setup).
  • Connect MCP2515 CAN-L to CAN Low wire (OBD-II pin 14).
  • Add 120Ω termination resistor across CAN-H and CAN-L if the bus requires it (measure resistance on the car's harness; stock may be ~60Ω).

For stock OBD-II access (non-CAN):


  • Use a K-Line interface instead of MCP2515 for diagnostics. But if forcing CAN, tap engine ECU harness wires (from wiring diagram: check J7 junction for potential CAN-like signals, but confirm with multimeter).
3. Arduino to BEAN Bus (for Instrument Cluster)

BEAN uses a single MPX wire (12V idle, pulls low for data at ~1.2kbps). Tap the MPX line to the combination meter (instrument cluster). From the 2002 IS300 wiring diagram (EWD451U):


  • Location: Instrument cluster connectors C9 or C10 (behind dash). Look for MPX1/MPX2 lines in the harness.
  • Wire Colors: Light Yellow (L-Y) or Red-Yellow (R-Y) tracer for MPX+ (signal). Ground is Black (B).
  • Connector Pins: On combination meter connector IA3 (or IH1): Pin for MPX is typically IA3-1 or similar (verify with diagram; MPX connects via J16/J17 junctions).
  • Connections:
    • Arduino pin 8 (RX) → Level shifter input (5V side) → MPX signal wire (L-Y/R-Y, tapped in parallel).
    • Arduino pin 9 (TX) → Level shifter output (12V side) → Same MPX signal wire.
    • Arduino GND → Chassis ground (e.g., OBD-II pin 4/5).
    • Power the level shifter from car's 12V (ignition-switched, e.g., white-red wire W-R).

Circuit Note: The BeanMPX library expects software serial. Use a bidirectional level shifter like TXS0108E or a simple resistor divider for RX (12V to 5V) and transistor for TX (5V to 12V pull-down). Reference the library's circuit diagram: BeanMPX/bean-mpx_circuit.png at master · fiztech-code/BeanMPX.


4. IS300 OBD-II Port (If Using for Reference/Diagnostics)

For completeness (non-CAN):


  • Pin 16: +12V battery.
  • Pin 4/5: Ground.
  • Pin 7: K-Line (ISO 9141 for diagnostics—not for MCP2515).
BEAN Code for Arduino

Install the BeanMPX library in Arduino IDE. This example initializes BEAN, sets an ACK for cluster messages, receives CAN data (e.g., engine temp from MCP2515), and sends a sample BEAN message to the cluster (e.g., for coolant temp). Replace engTemp array with sniffed bytes for your needs (e.g., from logic analyzer on MPX wire). Specific IS300 cluster messages aren't publicly listed, but examples include:


  • Coolant temp: Destination ID 0x10, data like {0x01, 0x02, temp_value}.
  • RPM: Similar format; sniff during driving.

Code:
#include <BeanMPX.h>  // BeanMPX library
#include <CAN.h>      // arduino-CAN library for MCP2515
#include <SPI.h>

// BEAN pins (software serial)
#define BEAN_RX 8
#define BEAN_TX 9

// Sample BEAN message for engine temp (replace with actual sniffed bytes)
uint8_t engTemp[] = {0x10, 0x01, 0x80, 0x50};  // Example: Dest ID 0x10, Msg ID 0x01, data 0x80 0x50 (adjust for temp)

BeanMPX bean;  // BEAN object

void setup() {
  Serial.begin(9600);  // For debugging

  // Initialize MCP2515 CAN at 500kbps (common for automotive)
  if (!CAN.begin(500E3)) {
    Serial.println("CAN init failed!");
    while (1);
  }
  CAN.setPins(10, 2);  // CS pin 10, INT pin 2 (matches wiring)

  // Initialize BEAN: ACK messages, then RX/TX pins, timer (0 = timer1)
  bean.ackMsg((const uint8_t[]){0xFE}, 1);  // ACK for 0xFE dest ID (common for cluster)
  bean.begin(BEAN_RX, BEAN_TX, 0);

  Serial.println("Setup complete: CAN + BEAN ready.");
}

void loop() {
  // Read CAN message (e.g., from ECU, assume ID 0x7E0 for engine data)
  int packetSize = CAN.parsePacket();
  if (packetSize) {
    long canID = CAN.packetId();
    if (canID == 0x7E0) {  // Example: Engine PID response ID
      uint8_t buffer[8];
      int len = CAN.readBytes(buffer, packetSize);
     
      // Process CAN data (e.g., extract temp from bytes 3-4, scale to BEAN format)
      uint8_t temp = buffer[3];  // Placeholder: actual parsing needed
      engTemp[3] = temp;  // Update BEAN message with temp value
     
      // Send to BEAN cluster (repeats 3x if no ACK)
      bean.sendMsg(engTemp, sizeof(engTemp));
      Serial.print("Sent BEAN temp: "); Serial.println(temp);
    }
  }

  // Optional: Read incoming BEAN messages (e.g., for ACKs or queries)
  uint8_t msgBuffer[32];
  int msgLen = bean.readMsg(msgBuffer);  // Copies frame to buffer
  if (msgLen > 0) {
    Serial.print("Received BEAN msg len: "); Serial.println(msgLen);
    // Parse buffer: [len, type (R/T), frame data...]
  }

  delay(100);  // Adjust for bus timing
}
How the Code Works:


  • CAN Receive: Listens for packets on the bus. Parse PIDs (e.g., 0x05 for coolant temp) using OBD2 requests if needed (add OBD library).
  • BEAN Send: sendMsg transmits the frame. Messages are ~12V serial; library handles timing/parity.
  • Testing: Upload, monitor Serial for debug. Use a scope on MPX wire to verify signals. Start with known messages (e.g., dummy temp = 80°C).
  • Customization: Sniff BEAN with Arduino + logic analyzer (Saleae or similar) while stock ECU runs. Common tools: sigrok or Arduino sketch for capture.
Next Steps

  • Download the full 2002 IS300 wiring diagram (EWD451U) from 2jzgarage.com for exact cluster pins.
  • For specific BEAN messages, check ClubLexus forums or reverse-engineer via sniffing (drive the car, log MPX data).
  • If this is for an engine swap, reference the YouTube video "BeanMPX interface with CAN-BUS" for IS300-specific setup.
  • Test on bench first: Power cluster with 12V, send dummy messages.
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#2 · (Edited)
Connector Pins: On combination meter connector IA3 (or IH1): Pin for MPX is typically IA3-1 or similar (verify with diagram; MPX connects via J16/J17 junctions).
This stood out as being wrong. IA3 is in the driver side floorboard, it's one of the 3 connectors that is beside the fuseblock. According to the combination meter section of my wire diagram book (EWD451U), IA3-1 is the connector between the ECM and the A/C. Either way, I've verified that this connector is in fact on the floorboard via the big book. The speed sensor ground wire goes through pin 11 of this connector on the floorboard, for some reason the ground for the sensor connects through the cluster instead of with the other sensor grounds. This ground is shared with part of the BUZZER circuitry! So the dinging sound I've been trying to pinpoint when I start from a stop is potentially due to me not having a normal speed sensor signal (and speedometer signal ground). My haltech controls the speed sensor signal directly.
 
#3 ·
Question #2
"using an arduino uno with a dual h-bridge driver, how do I control an air core motor from a 2002 IS300 combination meter considering I remove the gauge from the combination meter"

Answer:
Controlling an Air Core Motor from a 2002 Lexus IS300 Combination Meter with Arduino Uno and Dual H-Bridge

Air core motors (also called air-core galvanometers or gauges) from automotive instrument clusters like the 2002 Lexus IS300 combination meter (e.g., tachometer, speedometer, or fuel gauge) use a lightweight needle driven by two orthogonal coils that create a rotating magnetic field. When you remove the gauge from the meter, you're left with the motor itself, which typically has 4 wires: two for the "sine" coil (one phase) and two for the "cosine" coil (the other phase, 90° out of phase). These coils are driven by bipolar currents—positive/negative voltage to control direction (polarity) and magnitude (strength) to position the needle at a specific angle (usually 0–270° or 0–360° for full sweep, depending on the gauge).


The stock combination meter board generates quadrature sine/cosine waveforms (via ICs like CS8175 or similar in Toyota/Lexus clusters) from sensor inputs. To replicate this with an Arduino Uno and a dual H-bridge driver (e.g., L298N or L293D, which can handle two coils independently), you'll use:


  • PWM (Pulse Width Modulation) from Arduino to control current magnitude.
  • H-bridge polarity switching to handle positive/negative directions.
  • Trigonometric calculations in code to convert a desired angle (e.g., 0° for empty/low, 90° for mid, 180° for full) to sine/cosine values.

This setup is low-cost (~$10–20 for driver + components) and DIY-friendly. Warning: Air core motors are fragile—handle gently to avoid damaging the needle or coils. Test at low voltage (5–12V) first. The IS300 gauges run on 12V, but start with 5V for safety.

Step 1: Identify the Motor Wires

From the 2002 IS300 wiring diagrams (EWD451U):


  • The combination meter connector (C9/C10) has pins for each gauge's air core motor:
    • Tachometer: Pins 14A (W-L wire, white/light blue) – drives the sine/cosine phases via the board.
    • Speedometer: Pins 5B (W-L wire) – similar quadrature drive.
    • Fuel Gauge: Pins 20A/21A (LG-B and R-Y wires, light green/black and red/yellow).
  • Once removed, the motor exposes 4 terminals(desolder from the board if needed). Common color coding (varies by gauge):
    • Sine coil: Often green (+) and orange (-).
    • Cosine coil: Often purple (+) and red (-).
  • Test identification: Use a multimeter in continuity mode to find the two pairs of connected wires (each coil ~100–500Ω resistance). Label them SIN+, SIN-, COS+, COS-.

If unsure, probe with a 9V battery briefly (positive to one wire, negative to another in a pair) to see needle twitch—reverse polarity to twitch opposite.

Step 2: Hardware Setup

  • Power Supply: 12V DC (e.g., car battery or bench supply) for the H-bridge/motor. Arduino powered via USB/5V. Use a common ground.
  • Dual H-Bridge Driver(e.g., L298N module, ~$5):
    • Handles two DC "motors" (your coils) with PWM speed control and direction pins.
    • Enable pins (ENA/ENB) for PWM magnitude.
    • Input pins (IN1/IN2 for coil 1, IN3/IN4 for coil 2) for direction.
  • Wiring Diagram (text-based; visualize as two H-bridges in one chip/module):

Code:
Arduino Uno          L298N Dual H-Bridge          Air Core Motor
=============        =====================        ==============
Pin 2 (digital)  --> IN1 (direction sine)     SIN+ <-- OUT1
Pin 3 (digital)  --> IN2 (direction sine)     SIN- <-- OUT2
Pin 5 (PWM)      --> ENA (magnitude sine)

Pin 6 (digital)  --> IN3 (direction cos)      COS+ <-- OUT3
Pin 7 (digital)  --> IN4 (direction cos)      COS- <-- OUT4
Pin 9 (PWM)      --> ENB (magnitude cos)

GND              --> GND (common)
5V               --> VCC (logic, if needed; L298N uses 5V logic)

+12V             --> +12V (motor power)
GND              --> GND (power ground)
    • Notes:
      • Use jumper wires or 22–24 AWG for signals; 18 AWG for power.
      • Add 100µF capacitor across 12V/GND for stability.
      • If using L293D (lower current, ~600mA max), it's fine for testing; L298N handles up to 2A per channel for smoother operation.
      • Optional: 1kΩ resistors on Arduino pins to H-bridge inputs for protection.
      • For input (e.g., pot for testing): Connect a 10kΩ potentiometer to A0 (wiper to A0, ends to 5V/GND).
  • Schematic Tip: Search "L298N air core gauge" for visuals—it's identical to driving two small DC motors.
Step 3: Arduino Code

Upload this to your Uno via Arduino IDE. It sweeps the needle from 0° (min) to 360° (max) and back, demonstrating control. Modify the loop() for your needs (e.g., read a sensor or pot for angle).

Code:
// Air Core Gauge Control for IS300 Motor
// Pins: See wiring above
#define SIN_DIR1 2   // IN1
#define SIN_DIR2 3   // IN2
#define SIN_ENA 5    // ENA (PWM)
#define COS_DIR1 6   // IN3
#define COS_DIR2 7   // IN4
#define COS_ENB 9    // ENB (PWM)

const float PI = 3.14159;
int angle = 0;  // Desired angle in degrees (0-360)
int step = 1;   // Sweep direction

void setup() {
  pinMode(SIN_DIR1, OUTPUT);
  pinMode(SIN_DIR2, OUTPUT);
  pinMode(SIN_ENA, OUTPUT);
  pinMode(COS_DIR1, OUTPUT);
  pinMode(COS_DIR2, OUTPUT);
  pinMode(COS_ENB, OUTPUT);
  Serial.begin(9600);  // For debugging
}

void loop() {
  // Example: Sweep 0-360 and back
  setMeterPosition(angle);
  Serial.print("Angle: ");
  Serial.println(angle);
  angle += step;
  if (angle >= 360 || angle <= 0) step = -step;  // Bounce back
  delay(40);  // Adjust for sweep speed (20-50ms smooth)

  // Alternative: Manual control via pot on A0
  // int potValue = analogRead(A0);
  // angle = map(potValue, 0, 1023, 0, 360);
  // setMeterPosition(angle);
  // delay(100);
}

// Set position based on angle (0-360 degrees)
void setMeterPosition(int degrees) {
  float radians = (degrees * 2 * PI) / 360.0;  // Convert to radians
  float sinVal = sin(radians);  // Sine for first coil (-1 to 1)
  float cosVal = cos(radians);  // Cosine for second coil (-1 to 1)

  // Sine coil control
  setCoil(SIN_DIR1, SIN_DIR2, SIN_ENA, sinVal);
 
  // Cosine coil control
  setCoil(COS_DIR1, COS_DIR2, COS_ENB, cosVal);
}

// Drive a single coil with H-bridge (polarity + magnitude)
void setCoil(int dir1Pin, int dir2Pin, int enaPin, float value) {
  int pwmValue = (int)(127.5 * (abs(value) + 1));  // Map -1..1 to 0..255 PWM
  if (value >= 0) {
    digitalWrite(dir1Pin, HIGH);
    digitalWrite(dir2Pin, LOW);
  } else {
    digitalWrite(dir1Pin, LOW);
    digitalWrite(dir2Pin, HIGH);
  }
  analogWrite(enaPin, pwmValue);  // PWM magnitude
}
  • How It Works:
    • setMeterPosition(): Converts degrees to radians, computes sin(theta) and cos(theta) for each coil.
    • setCoil(): Sets H-bridge direction (HIGH/LOW for +/- polarity) and PWM duty cycle (0–255) based on |value| scaled to full range.
    • Calibration: IS300 gauges often sweep ~270° (e.g., fuel: 0° empty, 90° half, 180° full). Test angles 0–270 and adjust radians multiplier if needed (e.g., divide by 1.33 for 270° span).
    • Debug: Use Serial Monitor to print angles. If jerky, reduce delay or use faster PWM (e.g., TCCR0B = TCCR0B / 2; for 31kHz).
    • Enhancements: For sensor input (e.g., RPM via hall sensor), map value to angle in loop(). Add smoothing with angle = 0.9 * angle + 0.1 * newAngle;.
Step 4: Testing and Troubleshooting

  1. Power Up: Connect everything, upload code, power Arduino. Needle should sweep smoothly.
  2. Voltage Check: Measure ~0–12V across each coil pair with multimeter (DC average due to PWM).
  3. Common Issues:
    • No Movement: Wrong wire pairs—swap sine/cosine. Check H-bridge enable (some need jumper for 12V).
    • Jerky/Hesitant: At 0°/90°/180°/270°, polarity flips cause brief zero-field. Increase PWM freq or add small offset (e.g., pwmValue += 10;).
    • Overheating: L298N drops ~2V—use L293D for low power or add heatsink. Limit to 12V/500mA.
    • IS300-Specific: Fuel gauge may need inverted angles (test empirically). If from tach/speedo, full 360° sweep possible.
    • Noise: Add 0.1µF caps across coils for filtering.
  4. Safety: Disconnect battery before wiring. Ground properly to avoid shocks.

This method is based on standard air core driving techniques adapted for the IS300 (similar to Toyota/Lexus clusters). For video demos, search "Arduino air core gauge L298N" on YouTube. If you specify which gauge (tach/fuel/etc.) or share motor photos/wire colors, I can refine further!
 
#4 ·
So, there's snippets of generic useful information in there, but the specifics are either not enough detail or outright incorrect.

I was drawn to the thread by the thumbnail with the ai generated connection photos, none of those components are actually representative of anything, and the wiring is just for the lulz.

In all seriousness, AI can be useful are gathering relavant info and processing a lot of data, but it won't replace having a solid background understanding. The prompts are critical here... If you ask it "show me how to connect magical device a to magical device b", it'll do it, but 'magical device' is open to interpretation. It needs a very clear "how do i connect an non transistor to an arduino uno" query.

This is getting off topic...

What are you looking to do with the gauge cluster/mpx? I'm happy to help as much as I can.

A lot of the AI info posted doesn't make coherent sense and jumps around the place for achieving different goals.
 
#5 ·
So, there's snippets of generic useful information in there, but the specifics are either not enough detail or outright incorrect.

I was drawn to the thread by the thumbnail with the ai generated connection photos, none of those components are actually representative of anything, and the wiring is just for the lulz.

In all seriousness, AI can be useful are gathering relavant info and processing a lot of data, but it won't replace having a solid background understanding. The prompts are critical here... If you ask it "show me how to connect magical device a to magical device b", it'll do it, but 'magical device' is open to interpretation. It needs a very clear "how do i connect an non transistor to an arduino uno" query.

This is getting off topic...

What are you looking to do with the gauge cluster/mpx? I'm happy to help as much as I can.

A lot of the AI info posted doesn't make coherent sense and jumps around the place for achieving different goals.
I need to an arduino and another MCP2515. I have an ESP32 board I bought in a kit for building something else that I never built, but I always google and dig through forums to figure out how to do this arduino/raspberry pi stuff outside of kits. I don't know enough about the ESP32 to dive in on my own. I'm more comfortable with working on cars or tuning. There are two things I mainly want to do, one is control the gauge directly from my haltech ECU like the below text flowchart. The second is also below, but I need another mcp2515 and an arduino for it. I found some code online for the BEAN sniffing and also for driving the air core motor directly.

1) Haltech ECU ---> arduino ---> motor driver ---> air core motor
2) IS300 BEAN ---> MCP2515 ---> arduino ---> MCP2515 ---> Haltech ECU (receives BEAN data)
 
#7 ·
It's the MPG needle that I want to control directly. I want to display oil pressure on it. There's no input wire into the gauge cluster that feeds the MPG gauge, I'm fairly positive it pulls from the BEAN signals that are fed into the cluster. I've controlled the other needles with the haltech, I currently have the speedo running off of a generic output and the tacho was easy. I believe I had the fuel needle controlled previously, I don't remember. From what I've gathered, I'll need to isolate the 4 pins connecting to the air core and feed them via two drivers and an arduino (or the ESP32 if I can figure that out). Otherwise I'm not sure if I can control the MPG needle with the BEAN converter, I think the BEAN to CAN converter I mentioned is just one way and reads information, I don't think I can control something with it. It's really good to know that I need one arduino per each MCP2515, good thing they're cheap lol. I thought I could run all of the code together for the two mcp2515s.

I've messed around with arduinos enough to where I understand the basics, but you're probably rihgt, I need to build some basic stuff first. I have an LCD that may work, but it's meant for the ESP so it may be too advanced for the arduino.
 
#8 ·
Sorry about being passive-aggressive, I get ticked off with people constantly asking how to do the arduino LCD without any prior knowledge or research lol.

I've been looking at doing the same thing, I've done some testing as mentioned above, but need the packaging/faces working out.


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