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white_is build thread! (1jz swap in progress... 1/30

507K views 2K replies 271 participants last post by  Joshie989 
#1 · (Edited)
Newest pics = Post 1882*

Going to try to revive as much of this as I can. Pictures won't be exact, and I may not put ALL of the pictures back, but I'll do what I can over time.




*** All of these are hotlinked. Click on them and they will take you to the specific post.
Obviously I couldn't include ALL the important posts, so these are the ones with pictures.

Post 1: First day I got the car. Then Tanabe Coilovers, Work Emotion XD9, Work RS Lug Nuts, 15% tint.
Post 8: Fog Mod. DIY BP Emblems.
Post 30: Blitz Nur Spec Exhaust. DIY Black housing Head lights and Fog lights.
Post 32: VIS TRD/L-Tuned Replica Lip Kit. L-Sportsline Grill
Post 39: VIS TRD/L-Tuned Replica Lip Kit. L-Sportsline Grill
Post 49: VIS TRD/L-Tuned Replica Lip Kit. L-Sportsline Grill
Post 52: Duplicolor Metalcast Blue Painted Calipers with Black Decals. Satin Black Emblems and License Plate frame.
Post 89: SOLD Works. 11 spokes back on. Lower. iPhone pics FTL. Extended Exhaust for USDM Bumper. Added “L” Emblem to grill later.
Post 119: More pics.
Post 145: DIY Relocated horns
Post 150: More pics
Post 154: Interior Pics. Tanabe Sway Bars. Falken FK 452’s. Ray’s Extended Blue Lug Nuts.
Post 157: SSR Carbon Fiber Center Caps. SSR Professor MS1’s.
Post 164: Test fit of Wheels/Tires. JDM Altezza Window Visors. JDM Altezza Short Antenna.
Post 199:Fitment after rolling all four fenders. Shorter Springs installed on Tanabe Coilovers.
Post 219: PICS
Post 241: Some fender mods
Post 264: “Tinted” Third brake light red. MMSport Satin Black Tail Lights with Chrome rings.
Post 282: More Pics
Post 308: Random Pictures. LSD.
Post 332: LSD.
Post 338: Grom Audio iPod adapter. More Random Pics.
Post 350: Grom Audio. More pics.
Post 352: Pic.
Post 358: Another random pic.
Post 410: JDM Non Smokers Box. Edited Pictures. Stock wheels back on.
Post 427: Stock wheels + Stock Suspension = FAIL (winter mode)
Post 460: Hiding my Grom Audio Ipod Adaptor!
Post 471: New pics. Tuned Parts Rigid Bars. Polarg Hybrid Bulbs. Figs Mega Arms.
Post 488: BC Racing Coilovers, Ichiba Spacers, Cusco Upper A Arms, Nokya Bulbs, Figs Mega Arms, SSR's all installed. New pics!
Post 513: New pics!
Post 526: New pic!

Post 529: New pic!
Post 532: New pics!
Post 552: LS 400 front calipers in the works
Post 574: BC Damping Extenders, SSR Stickers, Caliper Bolts, Pads, Front Rotors.
Post 581: Some pictures of my front fitment...
Post 585: Techna-Fit Brake Lines
Post 589: Figs CDDD, Caliper Adapters, RCA's, Busted Windshield.
Post 597: Rear rotors and a couple new pics.
Post 608: Teaser from my Brake install.
Post 616: Rear calipers powder coated.
Post 622: HID Fog kit. Brake setup DONE. Stock wheels on.
Post 646: New "old" picture.
Post 651: Random Parts. One of my friends 240sx.
Post 655: New pics. Interior shot.
Post 672: Karl-Sport Short Shifter
Post 691: No more lip kit. Broken lower ball joint bolt.
Post 695: Figs Rear End links and new ball joint.
Post 696: New pictures.
Post 710: New picture of my car. Picture of my friends Civic.
Post 712: Rear end links installed.
Post 721: OEM TRD Altezza Grill.
Post 733: Figs Hood Props installed.
Post 742: Preview. OEM JDM Front. Authentic TRD Lip
Post 777: Random picture
Post 780: Vertex front bumper
Post 788: Vertex Side skirts
Post 799: Vertex front and side teaser
Post 819: Vertex Rear lip
Post 837: Teaser of my wheels
Post 841: Test fit of my wheels
Post 847: Test fit of my new wheels. Two new pics.
Post 867: 255/35/18 Yokohama S.Drives.
Post 873: 215/40/18 S.Drives. UGO Replica.
Post 882: Tires mounted. Teaser rear fitment.
Post 893: Z-Edition Grill
Post 898: Toe Links. Spacers.
Post 910: Lug nuts. Spacers. Teaser.
Post 918: Wheels on. Pics.
Post 943: New pics.
Post 957: Interior Pics.
Post 960: Floor mats, touch up paint. Vertex parts almost ready.
Post 962: Kit installed!!
Post 983: More pics!
Post 986: Pics from my buddy!
Post 996: New random pics
Post 1010: More picture whoring
Post 1028: Pictures...
Post 1060: New pictures before winter
Post 1081: Maintenance parts. Figs. Wheels.
Post 1082: Wheels
Post 1097: Wheel update. KS shifter
Post 1110: Wheel update.
Post 1113: Toe links, end links, teaser.
Post 1132: New Pics with Vertex and Wheels.
Post 1158: More wheel pictures.
Post 1171: New Pics. Refinished wheels on.
Post 1177: Maintenance parts.
Post 1179: Timing belt job. Interior. Raised car.
Post 1204: Old pictures from the summer.
Post 1210: Samco. Koyo. Exterior. Parts. Engine bay.
Post 1217: Ganador Mirrors. Wheel teaser
Post 1229: Wheel teaser.
Post 1236: New pictures.
Post 1241: New picture.
Post 1250: New pictures.
Post 1254: Wald Flares. Vertex hood spoiler.
Post 1269: Spring cleaning. Cusco trunk bar.
Post 1270: Modellista kit!
Post 1292: Interior cleaning. Carbing?
Post 1293: Wald flare test fit.
Post 1314: Painted rear Modellista Mesh
Post 1315: Rect Japan quarter window ducts
Post 1316: Window duct test fit
Post 1328:New pictures.
Post 1331: New pictures
Post 1333:New pictures.
Post 1339: New pictures
Post 1341: Old bent wheel lol.
Post 1360: Fog lights. New pictures.
Post 1376: Vertex fender test fit.
Post 1380: Ganador paint options.
Post 1381: Oil pressure gauge working. Fog light film install.
Post 1382: Power Ganadors!
Post 1386: Fully functional cluster
Post 1392: Modellista Fog lights wired
Post 1406: Two new pictures
Post 1409: TRD Neo/Cloth interior from Japan
Post 1412: New white/blue glass Ganadors
Post 1417: New white Ganadors
Post 1424: My view out of Gandors
Post 1428: Ganadors
Post 1435: Wheel disassembly
Post 1437: Wheels disassembled
Post 1442: Couple old pictures
Post 1444: Qualitat Badge
Post 1445: White Ganadors/Qualitat
Post 1446: Cusco Rear Strut Bar
Post 1451: Door panels. Chrome VS black Head lights
Post 1457: Arm rest, No.2 LCA, bushings
Post 1466: Random pictures
Post 1470: Friend's wheels pictures
Post 1481: Snow pictures
Post 1483: Bushings pressed out. Wheel hardware
Post 1486: Random pics. Juran FSTB
Post 1488: Bushings and parts
Post 1497: Vertex Wheel. Parts. Lips.
Post 1503: Wheel Faces
Post 1506: Random pics. Bushing install. Faces
Post 1513: Random pic.
Post 1519: Snow pics. Inner Barrels
Post 1524: Front wheels.
Post 1529: Buddy Club Spec 2.
Post 1530: Random Picture
Post 1540: New pictures
Post 1548: Buddy Club Spec2 videos. More pictures
Post 1559: Vertex Steering wheel install
Post 1564: Fender marker wiring. Steering wheel
Post 1570: Vertex horn button
Post 1573: Front tires mounted. Test fit
Post 1577: OEM Altezza Push Start
Post 1585: Blitz finished and put together
Post 1593: Blitz on. Pictures
Post 1604: Blitz on. Pictures
Post 1613: Blitz on. More Pictures
Post 1620: Bump Stop Spacers
Post 1621: Couple Pictures
Post 1626: Footwell LED. Blitz center caps. Suspension rubbing.
Post 1629: More pictures
Post 1638: Steering Wheel Spacer
Post 1643: More Pictures. Carbing Rear Strut bar
Post 1645: Carbing rear bar installed. Steering wheel spacer on.
Post 1652: Carbing front strut bar installed.
Post 1658: Wekfest Houston pictures
Post 1664: Fall Pictures
Post 1674: Rolling shots
Post 1678: New keys lol
Post 1688: Modellista Clear Trunk Lights
Post 1692: My garage lol
Post 1695: Spare tail lights. Interior piece
Post 1700: Rear toe adjustment failure
Post 1705: Elixir teaser
Post 1706: Elixir teaser
Post 1720: New rear tires
Post 1725: New BC coils, Figs mega arms installed
Post 1728: Exterior Pictrues
Post 1731: Elixir test fit
Post 1734: Some kind of leak?
Post 1741: Work Lug nuts, Moon face ball joints, random pictures
Post 1745: Pictures, interior and exterior
Post 1746: 17x9 Blitz type 03
Post 1749: Moon Face ball joints installed. Blitz wheel pictures
Post 1756: Ikeya Subframe collars installed
Post 1757: "New" JDM rear bumper
Post 1762: Black 3 Bar Altezza Grill, New 17x9 +22 CE28N, First puppy Luna
Post 1766: 17x10 +35 CE28N, two pair of CE28N
Post 1772: Street Faction Front/Rear Bash Bar Install, TRD Yellow, Elixir Teaser
Post 1773: Pictures with mismatched color CE28N
Post 1774: Luna update, First rescue dog Vada, dogs together, Amsoil trans and diff fluid, cabin air filter, oil change parts
Post 1784: Footwell Lighting, TRD Yellows, LED Ganadors, New door lock actuator, new drive belt, Figs foot plate, hood dampers, battery bar, T-shirt, bushings, Replacement trunk hinges, "new" daily 4Runner
Post 1786: Wiring Ganador plugs, JDM black housing Head lights, Super Pro diff bushings, Carbing front under brace, more pictures with mismatched color CE28N and LED Gandors installed
Post 1789: Figs side skirt clips, JDM Head Light install, CE28N back from powder coat
Post 1791: Tires mounted, Figs foot plate installed, Ray's replacement valve stems and CE28N stickers, matching wheels installed, Figs side skirt clips installed, head lights and tail lights polished
Post 1795: Trac links and bushings removed, Figs trac link arms, trac link knuckle bushing, rear lower control arm bearing installed, OEM white pearl tail lights, interior picture, exterior pictures
Post 1796: Exterior pictures
Post 1797: Exterior Pictrues
Post 1798: Exterior pictures, random pictures
Post 1802: Failed Foster dog addition Bug, all three dogs
Post 1806: Before/After detailing 4Runner, new rear brakes for 4runner
Post 1807: Last Modellista picture, Karl Sport shifter maintenance, Altezza cloth rear seats, arm rest, and door panels installed, Bride Zeta 2 driver seat cleaning with Street Faction seat rail and slider, new trunk lip spoiler, transporting Elixir and IS for paint
Post 1808: After 4Runner paint correction
Post 1809: Elixir painted teaser, Elixir details, grill fitting, Fog lights fitted, IS300 paint correction started, Elixir skirt test fit, broken wheel stud, car on jack stands
Post 1815: Diff removed, diff bushings removed, poly bushings installed, subframe bushings partially removed, picked up Chargespeed fiberglass hood, hood latch replacement parts and hood test fit
Post 1819: Rear H&R Extended wheel studs install, subframe diff poly bushings installed, car back on the ground
Post 1820: Exterior pictures
Post 1821: Exterior pictures
Post 1822: Exterior Pictures
Post 1828: Exterior pictures
Post 1829: Spare dash, Bride hip pads, Bride installed
Post 1830: Exterior pictures, Interior pictures, tires removed from front CE28N, New rear tires
Post 1832: "New" Advan RS 17x9 +29 18x10 +15, tires mounted, exterior pictures
Post 1835: Exterior pictures
Post 1838: Exterior pictures, new tie rod end
Post 1839: Interior pictures, exterior pictures
Post 1843: Interior pictures, exterior pictures, engine bay picture
Post 1844: Bride XAX2 passenger seat, Max intro, all 4 dogs picture
Post 1846: JDM Altezza front fender fitting, Garage shelving updates
Post 1852: Received Karl Long o2 Sim
Post 1854: How NOT to change your door lock actuator
Post 1857: o2 Sim Installed, Bride/Interior Pictures
Post 1858: Bumper on, no side skirts, engine bay pics
Post 1859: Kit back on before paint. Raised front, fenders rolled.
Post 1860: More pictures before paint. After getting an alignment.
Post 1861: More pictures. TRD CF license plate garnish
Post 1863: More Advans (17x9 +29, 18x10 +15, 18x10 +25), new valve stems, Bride RO Seat Rail.
Post 1870: Progress Pics From Body Shop. Hood/Fenders Prepped.
Post 1871: Progress From Body Shop. Parts Painted. Seats in, Car back At home. Ganadors put together. Car ready to be assembled. 18x10 +25 Advans on.
Post 1872: Car Assembled Pictures.
Post 1873: More Pictures
Post 1877: More Pictures. Car On Jackstands. Removing Front Upper Control Arms.
Post 1878: Failed Upper Control Arm Ball Joints. Car back on the charger for now lol
Post 1880: Ball Joints and Bushings Replaced. New Pictures
Post 1881: New Pictures, Garage Rearranged, New Tahoe
Post 1882: Future Fab 1jz Turbo Elbow, Altezza Digital Cluster
Post 1888: Weld Spark Plug Cover, Altezza Hyper Rev Volumes
Post 1889: Random Pics, Parts
Post 1890: ACT Clutch, Fidanza Flywheel, New pics, Buddy Club Exhaust for sale
Post 1891: Greddy Supreme SP Exhaust, Fluidampr Crank Pulley, Walbro Fuel Pump, Pics


There is a lot of talk about my mods throughout the posts inbetween too. I mainly posted the posts which contain pictures lol.

My CURRENT Mods list.

Exterior
15% Tint
Chargespeed Fiberglass Hood
Cerumo Sports Trunk Spoiler
DressUpBolts.com Titanium Engine Bay Dress Up Kit
Elixir Aero Front Bumper
Elixir Aero Side Skirts
Elixir Aero Rear Bumper
Figs CF/FRP Hood Prop Kit
Ganador LED Super Mirrors with Blue Glass
JDM Altezza Antenna
JDM Altezza Black Housing / Blue Tint Head Lights
JDM Altezza Black Z-Edition Grill
JDM Altezza Front Fenders
JDM Altezza Rear Bumper
JDM Altezza Rear Emblem
JDM Altezza Window Visors
JDM Modellista White Tail Lights
Rect Japan Carbon Fiber Quarter Window Ducts
Replica UGO Roof Spoiler
Satin Black Painted Fog Lights
Street Faction Front Bash Bar
Street Faction Rear Bash Bar
TRD Carbon Fiber License Plate Garnish
TRD Oil Cap



Interior
Altezza Black Cloth Arm Rest
Altezza Black Cloth Front And Rear Door Panels
Altezza Black Cloth Rear Seats W/ Head Rests
Bride RO Passenger Seat Rail And Slider
Bride XAX 2
Bride Zeta 2
Carbing Shift Knob
Dakota Digital Speedometer Convertor Box
Dakota Digital Tachometer Convertor Box
Grom Audio iPod Adapter
JDM Altezza RS200 Digital Gauge Cluster
JDM Non Smokers Box
LED Dome Light
LED Door Lights
LED Foot Lights
LED Map Light
LED Trunk Lights
NRG Short Hub
Steet Faction Seat Rail and Slider
Vertex Steering Wheel
*All-Weather Floor Mats (For Bad Weather/Winter)
*Full Black Leather Interior in storage


Performance
Carbing Cooling Plate
Figs Clutch Dampener Device Delete
Greddy Supreme SP Catback Exhaust
JDM OEM Altezza OEM Plug and Play Push Start
K&N Intake
Karl Long o2 Sim
Karl-Sport Short Shifter
Koyo Aluminum Radiator
TRD Type S 1.3kg/m^2 Radiator Cap
Samco Coolant Hoses and Clamp Kit

Suspension and Brakes
5 Speed LSD
BC Racing Coilovers (18k/16k)
BC Racing Damping Adjustment Extenders
Carbing Front Strut Bar
Carbing Rear Strut Tower Bar
Cusco Trunk Bar
Figs Replacement Upper Control Arm Ball Joints
Figs Caliper Adapters
Figs Diff Pinion Mount Bushings
Figs Diff Subframe Bushings
Figs Front Adjustable End Links with Moto Rod Ends
Figs Front Upper Control Arm Static Bushings
Figs Drop Mega Arms
Figs Polyurethane #1 Lower Control Arm Bushings
Figs Polyurethane #2 Lower Control Arm Bushings
Figs Polyurethane Steering Rack Bushings
Figs Rear Adjustable End Links with Moto Rod Ends
Figs Rear Knuckle Lower Bearing
Figs Roll Center Adjusters
Figs Sway Bar Relocation Brackets
Figs Toe Links with Moto Rod Ends
Figs Trac Links with Moto Rod Ends
Figs Trac Link Knuckle Bushing
IS300 EBC 3GD Sport Rotors (Rear)
IS300 EBC RedStuff Pads (Rear)
Ikeya Formula Rear Subframe Collars
LS400 EBC 3GD Sport Rotors (Front)
LS400 EBC RedStuff Pads (Front)
LS400 Front Calipers
OEM Front Upper Control Arms with Moon Face Low Angle Ball Joints
TRD Yellow Front Sway Bar
TRD Yellow Rear Sway Bar
Techna-Fit SS Brake Lines (Black Coated)
Tuned Parts Rigid Bars
URAS JZX110 Super Tie Rods


Wheels and Tires
Advan RS
17x9 +29 215/45/17
18x10 +25 225/40/18
Stock 11-Spoke wheels


My car in it's CURRENT state...

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

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Pics from when I first got the car! 2005 CW 5 speed with black leather interior and 28,900 miles.

WhiteLexus4 by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr


WhiteLexus6 by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

WhiteLexus2 by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr


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added more pictures... they arent the best either though. its been cloudy and cold all day.

alright i got new rims tires and coilovers all in the past two weeks and have obviously had the windows tinted since i got the car. but i finally got everything put on wednesday and have been dying to post pictures but i didnt have a chance to take decent ones when i got the car back wednesday. i washed it but by the time i got home i ran out of daylight :( and i was busy all day today. so here are some pics i have so far.


tanabe sustec pro s-oc type II coilovers
TanabeSustecProS-OCTypeII by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

bronze work emotion xd9 18x8 +45
WorkEmotionXD94 by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr


CoreysPictures003 by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

CoreysPictures007 by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

CoreysPictures011 by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr
 
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9
#1,983 ·
Pick up generic intercooler piping kit

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Pick up an HKS FCD because it was a good price. Don't know if I'll end up using it or not, but a couple people have recommended getting one so I grabbed it while it was available.

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Pick up some air fresheners from Austin with Never Content!

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

FINALLY painted my spare dash

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Cleaned up my A-pillars with dish soap and a toothbrush

Before
Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

After
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Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Partially have my interior back together
Gauges are all wired in, plugs are run through the firewall to the engine bay
Need to clean up the hole I've drilled through the dash tray for gauge wiring, and drill a hole in the felt cover, then I will paint that piece
Need to paint my glove box
Then I'll put it back together for the most part

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

While trying to get the panel under the steering column back on, I broke the pin on my push start switch. I've found a replacement and will go ahead and order two soon.

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Bought a black K&N intake filter

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Bought a generic "IS300 down pipe kit" from Ebay hoping it would be close. I don't think it's very close LOL but once I get the engine in I'll see if it'll be worth trying to have modified or if I just need something completely custom made

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

After talking with a few friends, I bought some more break in oil. Plan is:

start and run 20-30 minutes (this follows Brian Crowers recommended break in for the cam shafts)
change oil
drive 250 miles (no WOT, no high RPM)
change oil
drive 250 miles
change oil
then put in regular oil

That may end of varying some, need to look at the break in for the clutch/flywheel too

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr



Unfortunately, that's where things sit right now. I hope to have the interior finished this weekend but there's not a whole lot else I can do worthwhile currently. My harness is still being built and "should" ship next week. The jumper harness is at least done...

Lost a lot of motivation dealing with the harness but painting the dash has helped.
 
#1,984 ·
I figured I would just wing it once the engine is in place and figure out what is what, but I've noticed two things I'm not sure of in the engine bay right now.

First is some vacuum lines and little valve thing on the exhaust/passenger side of the bay. Pretty sure it was tied into the intake but I'm not sure what I need to do with it. Should I just leave it and tie it in to the intake? or can it be removed? Where does it go? there is a hard line that runs along the firewall and towards the back of the car I think. Is it related to the charcoal cannister?

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Second question is about a hardline low on the firewall on the driver side. Near the fuel feed line / steering shaft. For the life of me, I cannot remember what went there lol. I sold my GE too so I can't look at it anymore and see what it was.

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr



I'm sure I'm going to have plenty more questions once I start putting everything back in the car but those are my only questions right now.
 
#1,985 ·
Second question is about a hardline low on the firewall on the driver side. Near the fuel feed line / steering shaft. For the life of me, I cannot remember what went there lol. I sold my GE too so I can't look at it anymore and see what it was.

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr



I'm sure I'm going to have plenty more questions once I start putting everything back in the car but those are my only questions right now.
I might be completely wrong since I haven't spent much time in that area of my engine bay, but it looks like that hard line on the driver side is an evap line, perhaps running from the tank, along the firewall with the ABS lines, and to the vapor canister below where the stock ABS location and O2 sensor connectors were. I know a couple people who deleted evap and used that hard line for something else like fuel return.
 
#1,986 ·
I cant see where the vacuum lines are heading for on mine to compare, im guessing they are going to be common for RHD to LHD. Theres a few lines back under the plastic cover near the throttle body, will have to pull the cover to look at them.

Is the hard line this one coming up to the EVAP valve?
135593
 
#1,987 ·
I might be completely wrong since I haven't spent much time in that area of my engine bay, but it looks like that hard line on the driver side is an evap line, perhaps running from the tank, along the firewall with the ABS lines, and to the vapor canister below where the stock ABS location and O2 sensor connectors were. I know a couple people who deleted evap and used that hard line for something else like fuel return.
Looks like both of you guys are correct. I think I have both figured out now
 
#1,988 ·
Found replacement switches for the push start button. Fixed and replaced the push button already and back in place.

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Interior back together for the most part.

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Picked up some little Altezza models lol

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Long awaited engine harness was delivered

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Jumper harness with MPX box

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Harness on and routed

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Fitting the 1jz ecu in the ECU box. the shape of the ECU is different than 2002+ so the white plastic had to be removed.

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Getting the engine/trans ready to mate

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Noticed I lost my 1j o2 sensor

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Fidanza flywheel on, pilot bearing in.

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Didn't realize I needed new clutch cover bolts. Picked up some OEM bolts from Toyota

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr
 
#1,989 ·
Clutch on

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

mated

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Did a lot of digging and talking to people to try to find a suitable replacement for the o2 sensor. Bosch 15739 or Denso 234-4206 should work as well, but the Denso 234-4157 comes prewired with the plug. Since I didn't have the plug I went ahead and go this one. The wiring is too short to reach the plug location if mounted on the bracket but you can see it does reach the plug on the harness.

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Bay ready

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

In

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr



That's where I am at today. May get out there tonight and work on a few things but not sure yet.
 
#1,993 ·
Right, it's a shame to cover it up lol

Always nice to see updates!
Thanks! Good to know people still enjoy seeing this being dragged out lol

Congrats on getting the engine in place!

Did the All4Swap box come with the jumper harness?
Thanks!

Yes, Justin Collins (QFab Motorsports) modified the 1j harness and made the jumper harness. I had requested the All4Swap box be included so I wouldn't have to wire it in later.
 
#1,994 ·
I have basically everything underneath torqued and in place. Driveshaft is in and ready.

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Ran my fuel feed line. I will be using the factory under body cover that will cover the fuel line so it should be okay. Going to leave it off until I get it started and running so it's easier to check for leaks, but I did put some of the other panels and the heat shield on the passenger side back in.

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr


Found my o2 sensor I thought I lost... Will hang on to it as a back up

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Finally managed to grab some OEM black housing tail lights from Yahoo Japan. Been wanting a set for years and the time was okay for me to grab a set. They have chrome trim installed, kinda cool, kinda not sure how I feel about it. In any case, it will be removed to clean the lenses then I'll see what the chrome looks like lol.

No, I will not be selling either the white or the black set.

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr



After many back and forth arguments with my self and trying to figure out how to make oil pressure and oil temperature work, I think I finally have the solution. I'm going to run the Drift motion oil block adapter on the engine with a 1/8" npt to -4an oil line, -4an to 1/8" npt with a 1/8" npt to 1/8" bspt adapter, and the Toyota oil pressure sensor. This will be routed up and out of the way and the sensor will be mounted with a cushion clamp to the intake manifold. I think this will work for oil pressure and be clean enough.

There will be -10an feed and return from the DM block to a DM oil filter relocation block. I've got to figure out where I am going to mount that next. Then I can cut my line to length and get those lines run.

And the DM oil block adapter has a second 1/8" npt hole that I will run my oil temp sensor in.

I was running into issues with the Toyota oil pressure sensor hitting the 1j oil cooler setup, then hitting the AN fittings with the DM block adapter. So this seems to be the only way to make it work.

So I also have 10' of Fragola -10AN line, (2) 90 degree -10 fittings, and (2) straight fittings. The 1/8" to -4an adapter/fittings should be here tomorrow and I can get the oil line ran and sensor mounted.

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr


Three day weekend, so going to try to get a bunch of shit done. This list is a rough list off the top of my head, just trying to get as much done as I can.

Fill trans with fluid
Run oil pressure line
Mock up oil filter relocation
Mock up and cut intercooler piping
Bend ABS lines out of the way
Measure and run PCV, Heater core lines
Measure and cut front bumper to fit intercooler and piping


Once the oil lines are run I'll need to mount the AC compressor, power steering pump, install the PS pulley, install the lines for power steering, mount the PS reservoir.

Lots of stuff depends on finishing up the oil related stuff.





In order to get the AC compressor in place I ended up pulling the front sway bar off. Turns out one of my bushings was shot and fell apart. I've order Super Pro bushings from Figs, just waiting on them to arrive. Went ahead and ordered front and rear so I never have to worry about them again.


It's getting close man. Seeing the clutter and junk disappear as things get installed is great. Starting to get more motivation to get out and work on it, plus we are going to have some cooler weather over the next 10+ days.
 
#1,995 ·
Trans is filled with fluid
intercooler piping is mocked up. may make a few minor adjustments, but eventually I want to have some fabbed so this doesn't have to be perfect.
ABS lines are moved out of the way
Fan shroud is trimmed so IC piping from the throttle body fits

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Going to spray some primer on the cut and then put some edge guard around the opening

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

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Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Going to redo my tape line for cutting the bumper

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Think I'm going to end up mounting my oil filter near the alternator. Will be tight but should work out.

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Will probably route the lines something like this. Up over the IC piping off the throttle body, then under the upper rad house.

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Still need to see what will work best, but I think off the block I'll run straight fittings and then run 45degree at the oil filter. I have some 90degrees fittings too so I can see what works best



Superpro 30mm front and 19mm rear sway bar bushings for TRD Yellow sway bars

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr



Rear sway bar bushings are in.
 
#1,996 ·
Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

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Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

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Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr




Got everything back together. Bought a mechanical oil pressure gauge test kit. Ran the gauge from my oil filter relocation block up to the windshield so I could verify oil pressure before trying to start the car. Pulled spark plugs and coil packs, pulled EFI fuse, cranked until it built pressure. Found two oil leaks

One leak was on my AN line to the OEM oil pressure sensor. Forgot to tighten a fitting so easy fix

Second oil leak was a bitch. The hard line for the vvti solenoid was leaking. Turns out it was leaking up top because I didn't tighten it all the way, but it was also leaking at the bottom banjo bolt. I thought I left a crush washer off the back side but after tearing it apart, I had painted the surface for the crush washer when the block was painted. I didn't strip this before putting it back together. So, some busted hands, a razor blade and some paint thinner took care of it. Put it all back together last night.

I had gone ahead and bought 8 crush washers just in case, and replaced all 4 on the hardline to be safe.

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr
 
#1,997 ·
This was the first time applying power to the gauges making sure they all kicked on

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First video of it running.

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And videos from last night after fixing the leaks

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Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr



Ran out of coolant, so I picked some more up today. Last night I let the car run for a while to "break in" the cams. 15 minutes with heat on. AC works, heat works, fans work. Ran it a second 15 minutes before my wife got tired of it lol

Going to top off coolant tonight, change the oil for some more break in oil, remove the mechanical oil pressure gauge, put the front of the car on the ground, and try to figure out my throttle cable.

Everyone said the MK4 Supra throttle cable fits great, but mine seems too long. I realized late last night I had the pedal end wrong, the rubber stopper was behind the pedal. That helped some but there is still too much slack. Another guy mentioned the throttle body end has two locations for it to attach and I may have it in the first one? idk but going to look at that tonight

Then I can start the actual break in process for everything

It's open downpipe right now. Hoping to take it to have a mid pipe fabbed in the next month



but, IT RUNS
 
#2,000 ·
ignore all the dog hair. 2 huskies, 2 husky mixes, and a lab tend to shed quite a bit. will get it vacuumed and cleaned up soon. But interior is all back together.

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Put the hood and headlights back on today.

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Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Car moved under it's own power out of the garage

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Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr



I did not end up driving it other than in my drive way. I just had a feeling something was up and didn't feel right. I moved it up and down the drive way a few times, revved it, let it warm up good, but I was noticing a leak and my fans weren't kicking on.

I did not get my power steering bled correctly. So it was bubbling and leaking.

Was watching for my fans to kick on because I had yet to see them other than when I turned the AC on. And didn't feel like the coolant system was bled properly.

tried to bleed coolant again, but ended up just boiling for the second time. After talking to some friends we were wondering if it was possible the thermostat was in backwards. Decided I was going to check and pulled the lower rad hose off the thermostat but was completely unprepared for coolant lol

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Corey Wattelet, on Flickr


oops

so while I was cleaning it up I had sent a message to the guy that built my harness asking about fans and some other things. he asked about the lower rad switch

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Turns out, this needs to be plugged in...

I thought the plug was part of the 2jzge harness and the sensor just wasn't used any more. And I had seen this plug but thought it was part of the headlight wiring for some reason. So oops again.



that's where I stopped today. I'm going on a work trip this weekend so had taken today off. I'll be back Sunday afternoon but will probably be exhausted so idk if I'll work on it. I also took Monday off so I should be able to get it back together

Front is still up in the air so I'll hook the lower had hose back up, try to bleed coolant again, and try to bleed PS again.

I also moved the throttle cable bracket back a hole on the intake manifold. I don't think it's perfect or ideal, but it at least seems to work for now. I would like to figure out something better eventually.
 
#2,001 ·
Okay, so been a while. Been fighting small issues.

Got coolant bled finally, but had a power steering leak, coolant leak, and injector leak.

Coolant leaks were fairly simple, just tightening clamps. So far so good since that's been finished up.

For injectors, I had replaced the o-rings and insulators with new ones from eBay before the engine went back together. However I did NOT lube them. I didn't know that was a thing so I think that lead to their failure. Really I had 2 leaking, one was pretty deformed but the rest looked okay. In any case, I replaced all of them with new insulators and o-rings from Toyota.

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Toyota Part numbers:
23291-41010
90301-07024

Engine bay during the swap. I used Sil-Gylde lube when reinstalling and everything went together very smooth. Much smoother than the initial go around.

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Back together

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So I thought my power steering leak might be from the fitting on top of the pump, so I grabbed 2 new o-rings to be safe and replaced it. That was not the problem. The pump was leaking at the halves and the gasket. I ordered a new pump from Toyota and got it installed.

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Got that swapped in and was having issues bleeding the power steering system but finally got it.



I made a big rookie mistake though. I was interested in seeing how the pump works since I've never seen one, so I pulled the failed pump apart. Right away I noticed I'm an idiot. When I pulled the pump off of the 2jz I removed two of the bolts holding the front half to the rear half of the pump.... so it only had 2 of 4 bolts holding the thing together of course it's going to leak. $350 mistake...

by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Whatever. Basically everything is brand new at this point so it is what it is.

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So the initial stage of break in was to idle the engine 1500-2500rpm for a good 20-30 minutes. I ended up doing a couple different stages of this with break in oil and then changed the oil with more break in oil.

Now I've FINALLY started the driving phase. Going to put about 500 miles on it light driving and then do one more oil change with more break in oil and drive another 500 miles. Then I can put regular oil in.

So for now, light throttle, trying to keep rpm 3500-4000rpm max, light boost. I've put about 50-60 miles on it so far and everything seems to be going good. My oil temp gauge isn't functioning so I need to figure that out but it's not a huge deal at this point.

I'm also wondering if my fuel level arm may be stuck or caught. Gas gauge hasn't seem to move much. Going to keep an eye on it and fill up with fresh gas soon.

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Right now, I'm just running the Future Fab turbo elbow. No other exhaust yet. I've got a "mid-pipe" that should work with some fabrication. Going by a place Friday for them to look at it and hoping the can squeeze me in in the next week or so.

In the mean time, I'm going to finally work on trimming the bumper to fit. Once the exhaust is done I'll put the rest of the kit on

Just in time for winter LOL
 
#2,002 ·
Looking like its getting there! :cool:

In my experience o-rings really only fail like that due to environmental factors. Wrong o-ring material for handling fuel, or they are being used somewhere it is getting too hot. It might be worth going to a reputable local seal shop, so they can make sure you get the right product at the end of the day. Lube is really just for ease of install and maybe initial startup till they seat into place, as the fuel will end up washing out most of it.
 
#2,005 ·
I really think it was just me going in dry with them and pinched a couple. I haven't had any issues so far but I'm keeping an eye on them.

From what I've read the fuel level sender in the tank doesn't directly control the reading on your fuel gauge. Apparently the level sender only verifies it's level every quarter of the tank with the fuel consumption calculated by your ECU. As the JZX110/JZS171 run a bigger tank than the JCE10/SXE10 the signal will be off, causing the fuel gauge to only move in quarters (I think a lot of people run into this issue with these cars). On my car the fuel gauge seems to be working as normal, but I think my wiring guy installed a control box to correct the signal somehow.

Anyway, happy to hear the car is running right and you've managed to iron out most of the issues!
Interesting, when I got my Aristo hanger I swapped the IS300 fuel level sender portion into the Aristo assembly. Did you perform that step @white_is ?
I had a control box from Russia added that is supposed to fix the fuel gauge issue, that's why I think it was an install error on my part. I did swap the fuel level arm if that's what you are talking about Mzs14? I filled up a full tank a while back, but for reasons I'll discuss in the next post I haven't been driving it.
 
#2,003 · (Edited)
From what I've read the fuel level sender in the tank doesn't directly control the reading on your fuel gauge. Apparently the level sender only verifies it's level every quarter of the tank with the fuel consumption calculated by your ECU. As the JZX110/JZS171 run a bigger tank than the JCE10/SXE10 the signal will be off, causing the fuel gauge to only move in quarters (I think a lot of people run into this issue with these cars). On my car the fuel gauge seems to be working as normal, but I think my wiring guy installed a control box to correct the signal somehow.

Anyway, happy to hear the car is running right and you've managed to iron out most of the issues!
 
#2,004 ·
From what I've read the fuel level sender in the tank doesn't directly control the reading on your fuel gauge. Apparently the level sender only verifies it's level every quart of the tank with the fuel consumption calculated by your ECU. As the JZX110/JZS171 run a bigger tank than the JCE10/SXE10 the signal will be off, causing the fuel gauge to only move in quarts (I think a lot of people run into this issue with these cars). On my car the fuel gauge seems to be working as normal, but I think my wiring guy installed a control box to correct the signal somehow.

Anyway, happy to hear the car is running right and you've managed to iron out most of the issues!
Interesting, when I got my Aristo hanger I swapped the IS300 fuel level sender portion into the Aristo assembly. Did you perform that step @white_is ?
 
#2,006 ·
So messing with exhaust a while back. I had purchased a downpipe + mid pipe combo off ebay hoping that they would line up pretty close and I could use them with minor fab work. They did not line up once I got under the car. I really only planned to use the mid pipe since I had the future fab elbow but it just didn't line up close at all. It's made for a top mount turbo setup so there ya go.

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

I went ahead and bought a second "down pipe" hoping that it would be closer. It indeed was, but still required modification.

Now "why did you just take it to a shop and have one fabbed"? Well that was my plan. But you see, I live in backward ass north east Arkansas and it's not exactly the pinnacle of performance shops, import shops, or low car friendly shops. I talked to a few guys in town, had a couple places recommended to me, but it came down to two shops. One said they couldn't do it any time soon (3+ month wait). The other said no way they could get it on their lift.

Talked to a guy about 2.5 hours away that probably could have done it, but he was also about 3 months out. My other options were driving the car 4+ hours one way to shops closer to where some of my good friends live.

Ended up convincing a good friend here that it wouldn't be that bad and he let me throw my car on his lift. His dad came over and we got it knocked out in about 2 hours. The welds aren't pretty, but it's done and it fits. If I have issues with it down the road I can now much more comfortably take it and have a nicer piece fabbed. But for now, it's nice to have this thing quiet.

Stock turbo
Future Fab Elbow
Modded ebay down/mid pipe
Greddy SP supreme cat back

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

That was around November 8th. I think I drove it to work on the 9th and when I got back that night I thought the car sounded funny.

Car was warm from driving here.
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On the 9th I was going to drive it to work that morning, started it up and again didn't like how it sounded.
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Decided not to drive it to work. Came home on lunch the same day and tried to get another video of it.
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So at this point I'm pretty well starting to freak out and don't really know what to do. Decided to pull the valve covers off on the 10th and check out the cams and verify valve lash.

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My friend was getting married in Colorado, so I was out of town basically the 11th-16th. Didn't feel like messing with it when I got back.
 
#2,009 ·
I live in backward ass north east Arkansas and it's not exactly the pinnacle of performance shops
😂 Man I know the feeling...eastern Oklahoma not any better. Midpipe/downpipe looks good from what I can see. Sucks about the VVTi gear noise. I’ve never heard it in person, but I have heard of it. When I installed/lashed my GSC cams I also put a Fluidampr crank pulley on the car. It had these two little nubs on the back of the pulley and they hit the lower timing cover at certain rpms. I’d convinced myself that I’d bent a cam because if you read all the warnings and horror stories about snapping billet cams while torquing the caps down it scares the hell out of you. I swore the noise sounded like it was at the exhaust cam. Must have been the timing covers funneling the sound up. Before I’d figured out the source, I’d taken the cams out and rechecked lash and even put a dial indicator on the cams. Lot of work but no harm thankfully. Hope yours is the same, no real problem. 👍🏼
 
#2,007 ·
Pulled the spark plugs the 18th.
Verified timing was set correct.
Verified valve lash.
Checked a few cam journals.

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

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Plugs look fine.
Timing is good.
Intake valve 8 is .001" too loose but I don't think it's reason for concern or enough to warrant pulling the came to reshim
Cam journals look good.

Last night, I pulled the oil filter, drained the oil, cut the filter open to inspect, collected oil from the pan into a clear cup.
Nothing abnormal. Lots of fine shavings but talking to friends, it looks good and to be expected with a "new" engine.

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

(Large spots are bubbles, I confirmed)
by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr



Right now, I've got the spark plugs back in and torqued to spec, and any cam caps that were removed had assembly lube added and then torqued back on.
Need to remove the old silicone from the valve covers and then put them back on
 
#2,008 ·
So about the valvetrain / knocking / ticking / card in spokes noise. I've asked around to quite a few people, posted on Instagram, and did some searching through old threads here, supraforums, and jzx forums. Apparently this is a COMMON thing caused by a lack of oil pressure in the vvti cam gear at lower RPMs.

It usually is only brought on by more aggressive cams, valve springs and retainers, or a combo of both. I noticed more people saying they were having the same issue with Brian Crower 272 cams, which "require" the use of stiffer valve springs. Some guys with 264s did not report a problem, which I account to them not having stiffer springs. 264's + stiffer springs which is what I am running.

It's very odd, but the consensus I saw/heard is that nothing is being damaged and it's normal. So for now, I have to live with it.

Now many of these guys were running standalone ecus and were able to change vvti advance by a hair so that there was a bit more oil pressure in it. This seems to be the only way to bring the noise down. Since I'm on stock ECU, I can't do that.

There were also a few people that replaced the vvti cam gear with a new one, and the noise persisted.

 
#2,010 ·
Just some updates...

Xcessive radiator stays and lower bushings

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Started working on fitting the front bumper finally

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So was out driving for a bit and had a scare. Did a pull, lost power, car died. Coasted into a parking lot. Car didn't want to start and wouldn't run. Couldn't get it towed that day so left it over night. Went and checked on it the next morning after clearing my head and talking it over with friends. Ended up just popping an intercooler piping off. A couple sections aren't bead rolled so it's bound to happen. Long term I plan to take the car to a shop and have new piping fit better.

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Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

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Picked up new center caps for my Advans.

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Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Bumper finally looking better

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I picked up some OEM black housing tail lights from Yahoo Auctions Japan months ago. They've just been sitting in my closet but I finally had time to pull the chrome trim off, clean up all the double sided tape, and polish them.

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Once it warms up a little more, I will wash the car and then get comparison pictures between the white and black. I am keeping both so I can switch between the two any time I want.




About to do some maintenance on the 4runner. Needs front brakes, serpentine belt, serp. tensioner and idler, valve cover gaskets, and rear caliper bracket.
Working on adding some magnets to help fitment on my side skirts and rear lips. Skirts are done, just need to put them on.
 
#2,011 ·
Just some pictures from the last week weeks. haven't washed it yet, finally added magnets to my side skirts to help fitment a little. Worked really well. Going to be doing the same to the rear to prevent sagging

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Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

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Found out why I had a power steering pressure sensor CEL. I ordered a (used) replacement sensor thinking mine was bad, then realized that a wire had broken from the plug. Guy that built my harness is sending a full pigtail to replace but shipping services are awful right now...

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Pulled my injectors tonight and sending them to be flow tested and cleaned. should have done it months ago...

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I'm battling random misfire at idle with no CEL and my AFRs are being really weird right now. Idle had been consistently 14.3-14.8 but has not dropped into 12-13 range. In boost was consistently 11s and now are dropping to 10.0 and not registering. Idle is also pretty high, staying around 1200rpm.

Power cuts out at certain RPM's in different gears.

So far I have...

Pulled plugs and they all look fine. Gaps are all 0.032"
Tested compression with the engine COLD. Like hadn't been started in 2-3 weeks cold. Results were lower than I expected but were consistent.

Cylinder 1: 150psi
Cylinder 2: 152psi
Cylinder 3: 142psi
Cylinder 4: 142psi
Cylinder 5: 145psi
Cylinder 6: 147psi

Redid part of my boost gauge plumbing. Some of the vacuum lines weren't the tightest so I replaced them.
Just cleaned MAF sensor and unplugged battery so ECU would reset.




Plan is to have the injectors cleaned/tested to confirm they are good. It looks like I have an oil leak somewhere around the turbo. Possibly the the feed line but it's hard to tell with the intake and everything in the way. So going to pull the intake and J pipe and whatever else to try and track it down. Then I'll check all my piping and vacuum lines for leaks too.

idk after that. we'll have to wait and see.
 
#2,012 · (Edited)
Replacement pigtail for power steering pressure sensor
injectors back from flow test and cleaning

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Waiting on parts so decided to tuck the wiring harness on the passenger side...

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Pulled the intake manifold off to redo heater core lines, remove/replace vacuum lines, and remove/reinstall the injectors

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Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

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New fitting on the head. originally had a -10an 90degree fitting to barbed end but the barbed end was too small to fit the 5/8" heater core line. I had to run a reducer and it looked like trash. Bought a new fitting with a true 5/8" barb and then purchased the IS300 w/ 1jz HPS heater hose kit from Figs.

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

New OEM MAF sensor for JZS171

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New NGK spark plug wires and coil pack boots

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Intake side all back together

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Exhaust side almost back together. I had pulled the J pipe off and some other pieces to put new gaskets on the oil feed line on the block. I had a leak there so replaced the gaskets (copper crush washers) and replaced vacuum lines on the turbo/bov.

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Completely back together

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Heater core lines look 1000x better. Passenger side area looks a lot better. ABS wiring is routed infront of the battery behind the fuse box and along the brake lines. The HPS kit came with the two heater core lines, the lower rad hose and the upper front hose. I used the two heater core lines and the upper rad hose. I already had a Samco lower hose so no reason to swap it.

Another thing that has been bugging me is the windshield washer lines along the hood. I finally got around to adding a hole in the hood and rerouting the lines out of sight. So much better now
 
#2,013 ·
Some pictures from this week

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Also replaced the wiring harness for my oil temp gauge. It hadn't worked since I got it, I think I damaged it pulling it through the firewall. Works no though

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

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So some videos for sounds. Still have issues. Running rich, cutting out a lot, sounds like my BOV is sticking. idk if it's the ECU trying to relearn after sitting with the battery out plus the new MAF, idk if it's a grounding issue to the solenoid on the BOV since I moved it from the J pipe to the head, idk if the NGK plug wires are bad. My PCV valve on the exhaust valve cover is loose too so need to see about fixing that and if that is causing any kind of issue. Don't know if my fuel pump is bad or something so fuel pressure is inconsistent.

I'm still confused on why auto to manual swap people have issues with driveability that requires the All4Swap ATEMU, but I'm being told that I won't have issues with my setup. Auto ecu + 5 speed trans. Seems like it would be the same in my eyes. idk though.


VIDEO - Click picture to listen
Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

VIDEO - Click picture to listen
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VIDEO - Click picture to listen
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Plan to add ground to J pipe and drive to see if that helps
Plan to swap back to OEM coil plug wires to see if that helps
Looking at getting a fuel pressure gauge and T-ing into the line to check fuel pressure
Considering buying ATEMU and wiring it in just to rule it out (I have 9 auto trans codes)
Looking at buying another used BOV and/or solenoid to rule that out. Not really sure how to test the 1jz factory stuff to see if it's working as intended



My wife is being induced on Monday 5/3 so may be a bit before I can get to this though lol

So, if anyone wants to buy the car for $25k let me know!
 
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