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white_is build thread! (1jz swap in progress... 1/30

507K views 2K replies 271 participants last post by  Joshie989 
#1 · (Edited)
Newest pics = Post 1882*

Going to try to revive as much of this as I can. Pictures won't be exact, and I may not put ALL of the pictures back, but I'll do what I can over time.




*** All of these are hotlinked. Click on them and they will take you to the specific post.
Obviously I couldn't include ALL the important posts, so these are the ones with pictures.

Post 1: First day I got the car. Then Tanabe Coilovers, Work Emotion XD9, Work RS Lug Nuts, 15% tint.
Post 8: Fog Mod. DIY BP Emblems.
Post 30: Blitz Nur Spec Exhaust. DIY Black housing Head lights and Fog lights.
Post 32: VIS TRD/L-Tuned Replica Lip Kit. L-Sportsline Grill
Post 39: VIS TRD/L-Tuned Replica Lip Kit. L-Sportsline Grill
Post 49: VIS TRD/L-Tuned Replica Lip Kit. L-Sportsline Grill
Post 52: Duplicolor Metalcast Blue Painted Calipers with Black Decals. Satin Black Emblems and License Plate frame.
Post 89: SOLD Works. 11 spokes back on. Lower. iPhone pics FTL. Extended Exhaust for USDM Bumper. Added “L” Emblem to grill later.
Post 119: More pics.
Post 145: DIY Relocated horns
Post 150: More pics
Post 154: Interior Pics. Tanabe Sway Bars. Falken FK 452’s. Ray’s Extended Blue Lug Nuts.
Post 157: SSR Carbon Fiber Center Caps. SSR Professor MS1’s.
Post 164: Test fit of Wheels/Tires. JDM Altezza Window Visors. JDM Altezza Short Antenna.
Post 199:Fitment after rolling all four fenders. Shorter Springs installed on Tanabe Coilovers.
Post 219: PICS
Post 241: Some fender mods
Post 264: “Tinted” Third brake light red. MMSport Satin Black Tail Lights with Chrome rings.
Post 282: More Pics
Post 308: Random Pictures. LSD.
Post 332: LSD.
Post 338: Grom Audio iPod adapter. More Random Pics.
Post 350: Grom Audio. More pics.
Post 352: Pic.
Post 358: Another random pic.
Post 410: JDM Non Smokers Box. Edited Pictures. Stock wheels back on.
Post 427: Stock wheels + Stock Suspension = FAIL (winter mode)
Post 460: Hiding my Grom Audio Ipod Adaptor!
Post 471: New pics. Tuned Parts Rigid Bars. Polarg Hybrid Bulbs. Figs Mega Arms.
Post 488: BC Racing Coilovers, Ichiba Spacers, Cusco Upper A Arms, Nokya Bulbs, Figs Mega Arms, SSR's all installed. New pics!
Post 513: New pics!
Post 526: New pic!

Post 529: New pic!
Post 532: New pics!
Post 552: LS 400 front calipers in the works
Post 574: BC Damping Extenders, SSR Stickers, Caliper Bolts, Pads, Front Rotors.
Post 581: Some pictures of my front fitment...
Post 585: Techna-Fit Brake Lines
Post 589: Figs CDDD, Caliper Adapters, RCA's, Busted Windshield.
Post 597: Rear rotors and a couple new pics.
Post 608: Teaser from my Brake install.
Post 616: Rear calipers powder coated.
Post 622: HID Fog kit. Brake setup DONE. Stock wheels on.
Post 646: New "old" picture.
Post 651: Random Parts. One of my friends 240sx.
Post 655: New pics. Interior shot.
Post 672: Karl-Sport Short Shifter
Post 691: No more lip kit. Broken lower ball joint bolt.
Post 695: Figs Rear End links and new ball joint.
Post 696: New pictures.
Post 710: New picture of my car. Picture of my friends Civic.
Post 712: Rear end links installed.
Post 721: OEM TRD Altezza Grill.
Post 733: Figs Hood Props installed.
Post 742: Preview. OEM JDM Front. Authentic TRD Lip
Post 777: Random picture
Post 780: Vertex front bumper
Post 788: Vertex Side skirts
Post 799: Vertex front and side teaser
Post 819: Vertex Rear lip
Post 837: Teaser of my wheels
Post 841: Test fit of my wheels
Post 847: Test fit of my new wheels. Two new pics.
Post 867: 255/35/18 Yokohama S.Drives.
Post 873: 215/40/18 S.Drives. UGO Replica.
Post 882: Tires mounted. Teaser rear fitment.
Post 893: Z-Edition Grill
Post 898: Toe Links. Spacers.
Post 910: Lug nuts. Spacers. Teaser.
Post 918: Wheels on. Pics.
Post 943: New pics.
Post 957: Interior Pics.
Post 960: Floor mats, touch up paint. Vertex parts almost ready.
Post 962: Kit installed!!
Post 983: More pics!
Post 986: Pics from my buddy!
Post 996: New random pics
Post 1010: More picture whoring
Post 1028: Pictures...
Post 1060: New pictures before winter
Post 1081: Maintenance parts. Figs. Wheels.
Post 1082: Wheels
Post 1097: Wheel update. KS shifter
Post 1110: Wheel update.
Post 1113: Toe links, end links, teaser.
Post 1132: New Pics with Vertex and Wheels.
Post 1158: More wheel pictures.
Post 1171: New Pics. Refinished wheels on.
Post 1177: Maintenance parts.
Post 1179: Timing belt job. Interior. Raised car.
Post 1204: Old pictures from the summer.
Post 1210: Samco. Koyo. Exterior. Parts. Engine bay.
Post 1217: Ganador Mirrors. Wheel teaser
Post 1229: Wheel teaser.
Post 1236: New pictures.
Post 1241: New picture.
Post 1250: New pictures.
Post 1254: Wald Flares. Vertex hood spoiler.
Post 1269: Spring cleaning. Cusco trunk bar.
Post 1270: Modellista kit!
Post 1292: Interior cleaning. Carbing?
Post 1293: Wald flare test fit.
Post 1314: Painted rear Modellista Mesh
Post 1315: Rect Japan quarter window ducts
Post 1316: Window duct test fit
Post 1328:New pictures.
Post 1331: New pictures
Post 1333:New pictures.
Post 1339: New pictures
Post 1341: Old bent wheel lol.
Post 1360: Fog lights. New pictures.
Post 1376: Vertex fender test fit.
Post 1380: Ganador paint options.
Post 1381: Oil pressure gauge working. Fog light film install.
Post 1382: Power Ganadors!
Post 1386: Fully functional cluster
Post 1392: Modellista Fog lights wired
Post 1406: Two new pictures
Post 1409: TRD Neo/Cloth interior from Japan
Post 1412: New white/blue glass Ganadors
Post 1417: New white Ganadors
Post 1424: My view out of Gandors
Post 1428: Ganadors
Post 1435: Wheel disassembly
Post 1437: Wheels disassembled
Post 1442: Couple old pictures
Post 1444: Qualitat Badge
Post 1445: White Ganadors/Qualitat
Post 1446: Cusco Rear Strut Bar
Post 1451: Door panels. Chrome VS black Head lights
Post 1457: Arm rest, No.2 LCA, bushings
Post 1466: Random pictures
Post 1470: Friend's wheels pictures
Post 1481: Snow pictures
Post 1483: Bushings pressed out. Wheel hardware
Post 1486: Random pics. Juran FSTB
Post 1488: Bushings and parts
Post 1497: Vertex Wheel. Parts. Lips.
Post 1503: Wheel Faces
Post 1506: Random pics. Bushing install. Faces
Post 1513: Random pic.
Post 1519: Snow pics. Inner Barrels
Post 1524: Front wheels.
Post 1529: Buddy Club Spec 2.
Post 1530: Random Picture
Post 1540: New pictures
Post 1548: Buddy Club Spec2 videos. More pictures
Post 1559: Vertex Steering wheel install
Post 1564: Fender marker wiring. Steering wheel
Post 1570: Vertex horn button
Post 1573: Front tires mounted. Test fit
Post 1577: OEM Altezza Push Start
Post 1585: Blitz finished and put together
Post 1593: Blitz on. Pictures
Post 1604: Blitz on. Pictures
Post 1613: Blitz on. More Pictures
Post 1620: Bump Stop Spacers
Post 1621: Couple Pictures
Post 1626: Footwell LED. Blitz center caps. Suspension rubbing.
Post 1629: More pictures
Post 1638: Steering Wheel Spacer
Post 1643: More Pictures. Carbing Rear Strut bar
Post 1645: Carbing rear bar installed. Steering wheel spacer on.
Post 1652: Carbing front strut bar installed.
Post 1658: Wekfest Houston pictures
Post 1664: Fall Pictures
Post 1674: Rolling shots
Post 1678: New keys lol
Post 1688: Modellista Clear Trunk Lights
Post 1692: My garage lol
Post 1695: Spare tail lights. Interior piece
Post 1700: Rear toe adjustment failure
Post 1705: Elixir teaser
Post 1706: Elixir teaser
Post 1720: New rear tires
Post 1725: New BC coils, Figs mega arms installed
Post 1728: Exterior Pictrues
Post 1731: Elixir test fit
Post 1734: Some kind of leak?
Post 1741: Work Lug nuts, Moon face ball joints, random pictures
Post 1745: Pictures, interior and exterior
Post 1746: 17x9 Blitz type 03
Post 1749: Moon Face ball joints installed. Blitz wheel pictures
Post 1756: Ikeya Subframe collars installed
Post 1757: "New" JDM rear bumper
Post 1762: Black 3 Bar Altezza Grill, New 17x9 +22 CE28N, First puppy Luna
Post 1766: 17x10 +35 CE28N, two pair of CE28N
Post 1772: Street Faction Front/Rear Bash Bar Install, TRD Yellow, Elixir Teaser
Post 1773: Pictures with mismatched color CE28N
Post 1774: Luna update, First rescue dog Vada, dogs together, Amsoil trans and diff fluid, cabin air filter, oil change parts
Post 1784: Footwell Lighting, TRD Yellows, LED Ganadors, New door lock actuator, new drive belt, Figs foot plate, hood dampers, battery bar, T-shirt, bushings, Replacement trunk hinges, "new" daily 4Runner
Post 1786: Wiring Ganador plugs, JDM black housing Head lights, Super Pro diff bushings, Carbing front under brace, more pictures with mismatched color CE28N and LED Gandors installed
Post 1789: Figs side skirt clips, JDM Head Light install, CE28N back from powder coat
Post 1791: Tires mounted, Figs foot plate installed, Ray's replacement valve stems and CE28N stickers, matching wheels installed, Figs side skirt clips installed, head lights and tail lights polished
Post 1795: Trac links and bushings removed, Figs trac link arms, trac link knuckle bushing, rear lower control arm bearing installed, OEM white pearl tail lights, interior picture, exterior pictures
Post 1796: Exterior pictures
Post 1797: Exterior Pictrues
Post 1798: Exterior pictures, random pictures
Post 1802: Failed Foster dog addition Bug, all three dogs
Post 1806: Before/After detailing 4Runner, new rear brakes for 4runner
Post 1807: Last Modellista picture, Karl Sport shifter maintenance, Altezza cloth rear seats, arm rest, and door panels installed, Bride Zeta 2 driver seat cleaning with Street Faction seat rail and slider, new trunk lip spoiler, transporting Elixir and IS for paint
Post 1808: After 4Runner paint correction
Post 1809: Elixir painted teaser, Elixir details, grill fitting, Fog lights fitted, IS300 paint correction started, Elixir skirt test fit, broken wheel stud, car on jack stands
Post 1815: Diff removed, diff bushings removed, poly bushings installed, subframe bushings partially removed, picked up Chargespeed fiberglass hood, hood latch replacement parts and hood test fit
Post 1819: Rear H&R Extended wheel studs install, subframe diff poly bushings installed, car back on the ground
Post 1820: Exterior pictures
Post 1821: Exterior pictures
Post 1822: Exterior Pictures
Post 1828: Exterior pictures
Post 1829: Spare dash, Bride hip pads, Bride installed
Post 1830: Exterior pictures, Interior pictures, tires removed from front CE28N, New rear tires
Post 1832: "New" Advan RS 17x9 +29 18x10 +15, tires mounted, exterior pictures
Post 1835: Exterior pictures
Post 1838: Exterior pictures, new tie rod end
Post 1839: Interior pictures, exterior pictures
Post 1843: Interior pictures, exterior pictures, engine bay picture
Post 1844: Bride XAX2 passenger seat, Max intro, all 4 dogs picture
Post 1846: JDM Altezza front fender fitting, Garage shelving updates
Post 1852: Received Karl Long o2 Sim
Post 1854: How NOT to change your door lock actuator
Post 1857: o2 Sim Installed, Bride/Interior Pictures
Post 1858: Bumper on, no side skirts, engine bay pics
Post 1859: Kit back on before paint. Raised front, fenders rolled.
Post 1860: More pictures before paint. After getting an alignment.
Post 1861: More pictures. TRD CF license plate garnish
Post 1863: More Advans (17x9 +29, 18x10 +15, 18x10 +25), new valve stems, Bride RO Seat Rail.
Post 1870: Progress Pics From Body Shop. Hood/Fenders Prepped.
Post 1871: Progress From Body Shop. Parts Painted. Seats in, Car back At home. Ganadors put together. Car ready to be assembled. 18x10 +25 Advans on.
Post 1872: Car Assembled Pictures.
Post 1873: More Pictures
Post 1877: More Pictures. Car On Jackstands. Removing Front Upper Control Arms.
Post 1878: Failed Upper Control Arm Ball Joints. Car back on the charger for now lol
Post 1880: Ball Joints and Bushings Replaced. New Pictures
Post 1881: New Pictures, Garage Rearranged, New Tahoe
Post 1882: Future Fab 1jz Turbo Elbow, Altezza Digital Cluster
Post 1888: Weld Spark Plug Cover, Altezza Hyper Rev Volumes
Post 1889: Random Pics, Parts
Post 1890: ACT Clutch, Fidanza Flywheel, New pics, Buddy Club Exhaust for sale
Post 1891: Greddy Supreme SP Exhaust, Fluidampr Crank Pulley, Walbro Fuel Pump, Pics


There is a lot of talk about my mods throughout the posts inbetween too. I mainly posted the posts which contain pictures lol.

My CURRENT Mods list.

Exterior
15% Tint
Chargespeed Fiberglass Hood
Cerumo Sports Trunk Spoiler
DressUpBolts.com Titanium Engine Bay Dress Up Kit
Elixir Aero Front Bumper
Elixir Aero Side Skirts
Elixir Aero Rear Bumper
Figs CF/FRP Hood Prop Kit
Ganador LED Super Mirrors with Blue Glass
JDM Altezza Antenna
JDM Altezza Black Housing / Blue Tint Head Lights
JDM Altezza Black Z-Edition Grill
JDM Altezza Front Fenders
JDM Altezza Rear Bumper
JDM Altezza Rear Emblem
JDM Altezza Window Visors
JDM Modellista White Tail Lights
Rect Japan Carbon Fiber Quarter Window Ducts
Replica UGO Roof Spoiler
Satin Black Painted Fog Lights
Street Faction Front Bash Bar
Street Faction Rear Bash Bar
TRD Carbon Fiber License Plate Garnish
TRD Oil Cap



Interior
Altezza Black Cloth Arm Rest
Altezza Black Cloth Front And Rear Door Panels
Altezza Black Cloth Rear Seats W/ Head Rests
Bride RO Passenger Seat Rail And Slider
Bride XAX 2
Bride Zeta 2
Carbing Shift Knob
Dakota Digital Speedometer Convertor Box
Dakota Digital Tachometer Convertor Box
Grom Audio iPod Adapter
JDM Altezza RS200 Digital Gauge Cluster
JDM Non Smokers Box
LED Dome Light
LED Door Lights
LED Foot Lights
LED Map Light
LED Trunk Lights
NRG Short Hub
Steet Faction Seat Rail and Slider
Vertex Steering Wheel
*All-Weather Floor Mats (For Bad Weather/Winter)
*Full Black Leather Interior in storage


Performance
Carbing Cooling Plate
Figs Clutch Dampener Device Delete
Greddy Supreme SP Catback Exhaust
JDM OEM Altezza OEM Plug and Play Push Start
K&N Intake
Karl Long o2 Sim
Karl-Sport Short Shifter
Koyo Aluminum Radiator
TRD Type S 1.3kg/m^2 Radiator Cap
Samco Coolant Hoses and Clamp Kit

Suspension and Brakes
5 Speed LSD
BC Racing Coilovers (18k/16k)
BC Racing Damping Adjustment Extenders
Carbing Front Strut Bar
Carbing Rear Strut Tower Bar
Cusco Trunk Bar
Figs Replacement Upper Control Arm Ball Joints
Figs Caliper Adapters
Figs Diff Pinion Mount Bushings
Figs Diff Subframe Bushings
Figs Front Adjustable End Links with Moto Rod Ends
Figs Front Upper Control Arm Static Bushings
Figs Drop Mega Arms
Figs Polyurethane #1 Lower Control Arm Bushings
Figs Polyurethane #2 Lower Control Arm Bushings
Figs Polyurethane Steering Rack Bushings
Figs Rear Adjustable End Links with Moto Rod Ends
Figs Rear Knuckle Lower Bearing
Figs Roll Center Adjusters
Figs Sway Bar Relocation Brackets
Figs Toe Links with Moto Rod Ends
Figs Trac Links with Moto Rod Ends
Figs Trac Link Knuckle Bushing
IS300 EBC 3GD Sport Rotors (Rear)
IS300 EBC RedStuff Pads (Rear)
Ikeya Formula Rear Subframe Collars
LS400 EBC 3GD Sport Rotors (Front)
LS400 EBC RedStuff Pads (Front)
LS400 Front Calipers
OEM Front Upper Control Arms with Moon Face Low Angle Ball Joints
TRD Yellow Front Sway Bar
TRD Yellow Rear Sway Bar
Techna-Fit SS Brake Lines (Black Coated)
Tuned Parts Rigid Bars
URAS JZX110 Super Tie Rods


Wheels and Tires
Advan RS
17x9 +29 215/45/17
18x10 +25 225/40/18
Stock 11-Spoke wheels


My car in it's CURRENT state...

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

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Pics from when I first got the car! 2005 CW 5 speed with black leather interior and 28,900 miles.

WhiteLexus4 by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr


WhiteLexus6 by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

WhiteLexus2 by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr


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added more pictures... they arent the best either though. its been cloudy and cold all day.

alright i got new rims tires and coilovers all in the past two weeks and have obviously had the windows tinted since i got the car. but i finally got everything put on wednesday and have been dying to post pictures but i didnt have a chance to take decent ones when i got the car back wednesday. i washed it but by the time i got home i ran out of daylight :( and i was busy all day today. so here are some pics i have so far.


tanabe sustec pro s-oc type II coilovers
TanabeSustecProS-OCTypeII by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

bronze work emotion xd9 18x8 +45
WorkEmotionXD94 by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr


CoreysPictures003 by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

CoreysPictures007 by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

CoreysPictures011 by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr
 
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9
#1,847 ·
looking good! i just realized you hyper linked a lot of the cool stuff on page 1. so that kept me entertained for a while. lol

how are you liking the cusco upper arms? Im torn between getting the jsx100 cusco arms, or just going all out and buying s9. the altezza push start you installed was incredibly cool too (even cooler that is pNp). now i gotta find one on yahoo japan. lol
 
#1,848 ·
Yeah, I've tried to hyperlink all the main posts back on the first page. I'll probably have to go back and update that soon lol

I've actually gone back to OEM from the Cusco arms. The adjustment is good, I was able to pull extra camber out (more positive) when being lowered with some of my early setups, and then I was able to gain more negative camber with them later one, but they are too bulky for going low. They banged the strut towers sooner than OEM would and would actually rest on the tower sooner than OEM so it limited how low you can go. Not to mention finding replacement parts are impossible and $$$. Replacement ball joints from Cusco were around $150-200 for a pair and most places didn't want to sell them.

I went back to OEM arms, but I had the ball joint replaced with a Moon Face Super Low Angle Ball joint. They are designed for lowered vehicles and actually give more clearance from the shock towers, similar to cutting the spindles. Unfortunately, the last time I looked they had discontinued selling the ball joints. They did sell replacement arms that included the ball joint but they were not adjustable. I have had zero issues with shock tower clearance with this setup. The only thing I will change in the near future is replacing the bushings that mount the arm to the shock tower with Super Pro from Figs. They aren't worn, but the front upper arms and rear upper arm bushings are the only two left untouched so I'll change them eventually.

If you don't need adjustable arms and want more camber, JZX100 are the way to go. Replacement ball joints can be purchased through Figs, same with the bushings. The only reason I didn't go that route is I'd like to stay around -4* camber max.

Serial9 look fantastic though. If I had to pick between OEM with Moon face ball joints and Super Pro and S9, I would do S9. I needed arms in a pinch and I don't think S9 were released at the point or I would have gone that route.

The push start is one of my favorite things lol it's really pointless since you still have to put the key it, turn ignition to on, and then push the button, but I never have to worry about breaking another key again. And it's not common at all so it's a cool discussion piece when people do notice.

Good luck finding one though, I spent a while looking. There have been a few I've seen come by in the last year or two but prices have kind of sky rocketed. I saw one with a buy it now price over $200. Something that may widen the search those is I believe the MR2 used the same push button and harness.
 
#1,849 ·
thanks for that info, incredibly helpful. the mass hanging over the upper pickup point is what i was worried about and you just basically confirmed that (for cusco style FUCA). im surprised to see you on stock spindles for as low as you are.

i have seen the moonface balljoints too and from i understand, they are not available anymore. either way, i need something adjustable, so i just need to shell out for the S9 FUCA.

thanks for the tip on the MR2, i will certainly keep that in mind when looking. i really dont care if there are extra steps involved in starting the car, i just dig that there was an OEM option at one point in time for this chassis. keeping the key snapping thing at bay is another big plus for me. when i test drove my car at the dealer, i broke the key starting it at the test drive and once i bought the car they made me pay 20ish bucks to have a guy behind the parts counter glue it back together. they wouldnt throw it in as a freebie and readily admitted it 'would break again sometime down the line'. -____-

excited to see this thing one color!
 
#1,850 ·
I've wanted to switch to shortened spindles, but I don't have anyone I can trust to do the work locally and I'm not sure I'm trusting enough to go with the options off of Yahoo lol. I'd love T Demand but I think they are $700+? I'm just holding out that Figs comes through and produces a modular front spindle lol

I was the same way with the push start. I enjoy it for the novelty of it. Like you said, OEM plug and play options are pretty cool in general lol

Me too! I need to stop being lazy and get the fenders worked out lol





I went through and updated the first post to include hyperlinks for all recent posts. Also added info on our newest dog since that was left out lol
 
#1,851 ·
t demand is 1k+. figs and s9 are 700-900. im not sure how much i would trust the YJ specials, they arent braced. powered by max just started offering this service with aluminum and steel spindles. they do it the right way and jig up the spindles and brace them. if that was available to me at the time, i would have went the PBM route. i had to send mine to canada and a JZX tuner ended up doing them for me.

https://store.partsshopmax.com/shop/LexusLS/multilink/LKMOD.html

they dont have the 1IS listed but they are willing to do a set so they can have a jig for future use.
 
#1,852 ·
How in the world do guys with the o2 Sim from Karl Long pull the plug through the firewall? I removed my battery and the battery tray and it looks like a huge PITA lol

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr



About a week ago I was working on my fenders, and left one of my doors open for about an hour or two. I hadn't driven the car in probably 2 weeks so I didn't think much of it when the battery died eventually. But I'm kind of worried now... I noticed some mouse shit in my engine bay while I was removing my battery the other night. I am going to pick up a battery charger/tender in the next few days but I looked through as much of the engine bay as I could and didn't see anything chewed up

No updates other than getting my o2 sim in... Need to figure out how to pull my front fenders, and going to have to raise it I guess. Can't turn as is.
 
#1,854 ·
Okay, so I'm 2 years late on this, but I wanted to share the information I gathered when I messed up replacing my door lock actuator.

So, 2 years I replaced my driver side door lock actuator, but in the process I got my door "locked" half-way shut. Luckily I had the door panel off, but it was still a complete pain in the ass.

First bit of advice, DO NO REMOVE THIS LAST REMAINING SCREW.

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

That screw does not need to be removed for any reason what so ever, I thought it did and I was wrong.

But if you do, PAY ATTENTION. I did not. It's obvious to me now, but I didn't think anything of it at the time and just through the cover back on and put the screw back in.

When you remove the screw, the gold plate comes off and exposes the following.

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

There is a tab that is very important. There is a matching slot on the other half that the tab fits into.

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

So what happened to me, is the metal tab didn't go back into the slot that is on the tan/white-ish cam assembly. It actually went above it into the void. This actually prevented the cam from rotating enough to unlatch the door.

The open triangle portion above the red circled slot is where the metal tab went when I put it back together.

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr



Since I had the door panel off when I shut the door, I was able to remove the actuator and gain some access to the latch assembly. I ended up buying a complete (used) replacement to study and that's where I noticed what happened. I couldn't find any other way to get the door open besides prying and bending and much of that assembly as I could to get the metal tab out of the way, and then I was able to stick a small flat head into the slot on the cam and rotate it to unlatch the door.

I believe I saw one other thread were someone did something similar so I figured I would share what to avoid while replacing the actuator. Obviously there a plenty of people that will say "yeah, dumbass, just don't remove that cover" but I didn't know and didn't see any DIY that had details so I was winging it.


It was an extremely satisfying feeling when the door finally unlatched though :lol: I fought it for over a month

These are the pieces that came off my car so you can kind of see they're a little bent. I kept them around just to take pictures of to post here to hopefully help someone eventually lol
 
#1,857 ·
Karl Long o2 Simulator is installed. I wasn't sure where to cut the grommet, so it's not the cleanest, but eventually got the plug through. Ended up having to have my wife help :lol:

Had to buy a battery charger/tender because the car wouldn't start. Got it started though so should be good to go.

Plug run through the grommet in the firewall

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Routed along the wiring harness

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Carpet trim removed, second plug/wiring run under the carpet

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Pulled the carpet up to run the wiring along the harness under the carpet

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Wiring and box before being tucked int he fuse panel

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr


Existing plug and sim plug

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr


Cleaned up the bay a little

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr




Also made another air bag resistor for the seat install and sat the seat in the car. Still need to figure out the seat rail/bracket so I can install it.

Apparently the sliders can be unbolted from the factory seat and can bolt up to the Bride seat? So I just need to buy a seat bracket (like Planted?) I think? That's my understanding of it I guess but I've been out of town since I pulled the seat so I haven't had time to look. Going to take a look at my seat this weekend and do some research to get a definitive answer on what I need.

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr



This passenger Bride completes my swap to cloth and pretty much completes my interior other than a few small changes that probably won't happen. I do need to refinish the spare dash I have so I can swap to a clean dash.

Only interior piece left that I know I want is a Do-Luck Floor Bar. I've passed a few up before because they still go for a pretty stupid price ($400+) so who knows if I will end up with one. I still don't really care to pay that much for one :lol:

I may consider getting a cloth shift boot and ebrake boot, but the ebrake handle itself is leather and I don't see a good way to change that so I will probably just leave it as is.
 
#1,858 · (Edited)
Battery charger/tender is doing it's job. Raised the front end slightly, can now turn lock to lock without hitting fender. Was uneven by about 1cm also so evened it out.

Need to work on side skirt mounting, I've drilled holes on the passenger side but need to mess with the fender liner. Driver side needs holes drilled and fender liner adjusted.

Once I can mount side skirts I'll make sure the rear doesn't need to be raised.

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Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

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Half way trying to clean up the bay. Need to clean along the fire wall and close around the engine itself. Mainly did around the radiator and chassis. Cooling plate isn't in place to make removing the grill and bumper easier. Trying to figure out when I can take it to get fenders and hood painted

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Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

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Does anyone know of a company that makes an aluminum fan shroud for the IS? I'd like to do a slim electric fan setup with an aluminum shroud and external coolant overflow to get rid of the bulky stock fan/overflow combo. I haven't seen one, but maybe someone knows of one out there with out going custom.
 
#1,859 · (Edited)
Did some work getting my fenders rolled/pulled, and raised the front slightly so I'm actually able to turn. Pretty happy with the height. I wish it was lower, but from a practicality standpoint this is much better.

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Finally was able to pull the car out, start it, and drive it lol

Also had some concrete additions to our driveway poured. Full spot where the car is parked and a small turn around area on the opposite side

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Drove it to work a couple days in a row

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Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

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I currently have alternating front lights for those that are detail oriented and may have noticed. Passenger side fender light is wired and functions. Driver side Ganador LED is wired and functions lol. I used the wiring for the fender light for the Ganador on the driver side so I need to modify that side and get the driver fender light functioning. Passenger side Ganador LED does not work currently, so I just used the wiring for the fender since I already had it set up. Plan is to try and get the Ganador LED fixed when I disassemble the mirror for paint

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Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr
 
#1,860 · (Edited)
The other weekend I drove the IS from Jonesboro to Joplin. I had made plans months ago to go see a Metallica concert in Tulsa, OK with my dad, brother, and his wife so I decided I would drive the IS and get it aligned a shop I trust in Joplin.

Ended up going to the AFC championship game to see the Chiefs play that Sunday as well. Was a wild weekend :lol:

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Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

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Wheel specs are:

17x9 +29 215/45/18 -3* camber
18x10 +15 225/40/18 -2.8 camber

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Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

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Should have another update next weekend

Also updated my WTB thread if anyone has some cool/rare parts for sale.

I have my factory 2002+ flush mount spoiler for sale, and would also sell my Advans if any were interested in either.
 
#1,861 ·
More of the same. Trying to get it in for paint soon

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Going to give TRD carbon license plate garnish a try. Chris (DB8 Motorsports) is the man

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#1,863 ·
I bought another pair of Advan RS in 18x10 +25 for my rear. I've since sold my 18x10 +15 pair. I just didn't like the amount of poke they had and they were rubbing under any sort of hard driving. +25 should pull them back in enough to be fun. My rear CE28N were 17x10 +25 and I was running a 245/40/17 so should have plenty of room.

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Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

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I also bought 4 new valve stems from Sensei 6. Jordan is super helpful, service was great. I needed them ASAP and they took care of me. The +25 pair came with some generic rubber valve stems so I replaced them with chrome stems to match the front pair. When I flip the front tires next year I'll put the new pair of valve stems on them.

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I FINALLY received my passenger seat rail/slider. I purchased a Bride RO rail for my Bride XAX2 from Enjuku 11 weeks ago, they had said it would be 6-8 week special order but I wasn't too concerned. I contacted them during week 7 though and there was some kind of mishap or miscommunication "with Japan" and it was going to be another 4 weeks... Not sure what happened, but I'm not mad. They were good with communication and were apologetic about everything so it is what it is.

I don't have the car anyway so it really didn't matter. I dropped it off for paint a few weeks ago so just playing a waiting game to put it back together and get the seat in.

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Unfortunately that's the only picture I have right now lol. I did bolt it up to the seat though.
 
#1,869 ·
Digging the wheels!!! I really like the shape of the spokes and they are so shiny. Good choice
 
#1,870 ·
Finally getting some updates from the body shop. Taking much longer than anticipated but trying to stay patient.

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Hoping it will be ready to pick up this coming week. Will need to put Advans on, put both Brides in, put Elixir kit on, and then make sure the ride height is good all around.
 
#1,871 ·
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"new" rear wheels fit so much better. MUCH happier with these. Switched from 18x10 +15 to 18x10 +25.

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Potato interior shot

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#1,873 ·
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#1,874 ·
There's my updated photo dump. Got the car back a while back, but have been busy with other projects so it took me longer to get it back together than I had planned.

Got it back together, drove it for about 2 weeks. Getting some pretty nasty popping from the front end so I haven't driven it in 2 weeks now. I'm in the process of screening in my back porch and with summer/mosquito season starting all my spare time has gone to that. I'm about 80% done with that now, and am hoping to finish it this weekend. Then I can check my ball joints. I have an older style roll center adjuster+Hysteer lower ball joint replacement from Figs that are serviceable so I'm hoping the ball joints just need greased. We'll see.

Pretty happy with the car. There are some nitpicky things I don't like or I'm not happy with but it is what it is. Chargespeed fiberglass hood surprisingly does not fit well. I don't know if the original owner had a poor body shop body work it and fit it or what, but my body shop put WAY too much time into it to get it to fit how it does.

Not sure that I like the TRD license plate garnish. I'd still rather find the C-One trunk panels but have had zero luck. My other idea is to find OEM Toyota black painted tail lights but that's pretty difficult too. And I like the white tail lights and don't see a point in keeping two different sets.

I need to give the car another wash after I check the ball joints and go get some better pictures. Maybe next weekend lol




Now my biggest dilemma. I've really been going back and forth with selling the car. I'm trying to drive it more but I also haven't had as much time to work on it. I enjoy the car and it drives really well right now, but I'm at the point now where I have to make a decision on the future of the car. While I do enjoy it, I'm at the point where I either am going to 1jz swap it or sell it. 1jz swap (or boosted in general) has been a goal of mine for many years, but looks have always been more important. I've finally got the car looking how I want so it's either take the next step or be done with it and move on.

I've been struggling with it for a while, so it's probably not something I'll decide in the next 2 weeks or anything.
 
#1,877 ·
Haven't been driving the car because of the front end popping. Took a peek, lower ball joint grease looks clean and they move freely with no noise/binding with the spindles unbolted. Upper ball joints on the other hand...

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

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Sorry, I thought I uploaded the other pictures. I'll be back later to finish this.
 
#1,878 · (Edited)
So, these are my factory upper arms but I had replaced the ball joints with Moon Face Low Angle joints. They were shorter than stock and helped with the upper arm not banging on the shock towers, but they only lasted maybe 30k miles. I mean, I've barely driven the car in the past 2 years.

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

Untitled by Corey Wattelet, on Flickr

So, car is on jack stands with the uppers pulled out and battery is on a charger for now.

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I have already ordered ball joint replacements from Figs, and I went ahead and bought Super Pro bushings too. My bushings look great, I had pulled these arms off for LONG time while I was running Cusco uppers so I would be surprised if they bushings even have 80k miles on them. But I figured I'll just upgrade while the arms are out and then the front suspension will be completely refreshed. They should be delivered Saturday so I just need to get out in the garage and get the bushings/ball joints removed if I can.



EDIT: Updated first post to include all of my recent posts. Updated mods list.
 
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