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Auto to Manual Swap, Wiring, Ecu, CC, NSS, CLSW, Trac, Snow, now smogged in CA!

208K views 186 replies 48 participants last post by  lessthanjakejohn 
#1 · (Edited)
When looking for information about doing a transmission swap, there was some questions that i could not get answers to. My goal was to have a full working swap that was CEL free, and had the look and feel of a factory car. Here is how I did it.

Here is my basic parts list using all stock parts

w55 transmission
shifter
Slave cylinder
Clutch Pedal
Clutch Line
Shift boot
Flywheel
Manual brake pedal
Manual drive shaft
Rear engine “transmission” mount
Stock Shift knob
Manual Steering Wheel
Manual Cluster
New pressure plate & clutch disk
M/T Ecu


Uninstalling the automatic transmission, I followed this basic information from All Data.






Removing the Automatic Transmission

1. REMOVAL
2. REMOVE LEVEL GAUGE
3. REMOVE FILLER PIPE Remove the bolt and filler pipe with the O-ring.

3. REMOVE AIR CLEANER, MAP METER AND INTAKE AIR CONNECTOR PIPE ASSEMBLY
4. REMOVE EXHAUST MANIFOLD WITH TWC
a. Disconnect the 3 connectors.
b. Remove the 8 nuts, 2 gaskets and exhaust manifold with the TWC. Torque: 39 Nm (400 kgf-cm, 29 ft. lbs.)
5. RAISE VEHICLE
NOTICE: Make sure that the vehicle is securely supported.
6. REMOVE NO. 1 AND NO. 2 ENGINE UNDER COVERS
7. REMOVE LH FRONT FLOOR CENTER COVER
8. REMOVE NO. 1 REAR FLOOR BOARD
9. DRAIN ENGINE COOLANT
10. REMOVE UPPER RADIATOR HOSE FROM RADIATOR
11. REMOVE FRONT AND CENTER EXHAUST PIPES
12. REMOVE SHIFT CONTROL ROD
a. Remove the nut and washer, and disconnect the rod. Torque: 13 Nm (130 kgf-cm, 9 ft. lbs.)
b. Remove the nut and shift control rod. Torque: 13 Nm (130 kgf-cm, 9 ft. lbs.)
13. REMOVE PROPELLER SHAFT
14. DISCONNECT OIL COOLER PIPE
a. Remove the 3 bolts and 3 clamps. Torque: 5.4 Nm (55 kgf-cm, 48 inch lbs.)
b. Loosen the 2 union nuts from the transmission. Torque: 44 Nm (450 kgf-cm, 33 ft. lbs.)
NOTICE: Be careful not to damage the oil cooler pipe.
c. Disconnect the 2 oil cooler pipes from the transmission.
15. REMOVE TORQUE CONVERTER CLUTCH MOUNTING BOLT
a. Remove the hole plug.
b. Turn the crankshaft to gain access to each bolt.
c. Hold the crankshaft pulley nut with a wrench and remove the 6 bolts. Torque: 48 Nm (490 kgf-cm, 35 ft. lbs.)
16. SUPPORT TRANSMISSION WITH JACK
17. REMOVE 4 ENGINE REAR SUPPORT MEMBER SET BOLTS Torque: 25 Nm (260 kgf-cm, 19 ft. lbs.)
18. DISCONNECT CONNECTORS AND WIRE HARNESS
a. Tilt down the transmission.
NOTICE: Take care so that the cooling fan does not come in contact with the fan shroud.
b. Disconnect the following connectors:
1. O/D direct clutch speed sensor connector
2. Vehicle speed sensor connector
3. Park/neutral position switch connector
4. Solenoid connector
c. Disconnect the wire harness from the clamps on the transmission.
19. REMOVE STARTER
a. Disconnect the connector and wire from the starter.
b. Remove the 2 bolts and starter. Torque: 37 Nm (380 kgf-cm, 27 ft. lbs.)
20. REMOVE TRANSMISSION Remove the 9 bolts, ground cable and transmission.
Torque:
17 mm head: 72 Nm (730 kgf-cm, 53 ft. lbs.)
14 mm head: 37 Nm (380 kgf-cm, 27 ft. lbs.)


TUNNEL MODIFICATION

Tunnel Modification

The Automatic transmission tunnel is about 1 inch lower than the manual tunnel, so to make clearance for the manual transmission this is how I changed the tunnel.

Got a used manual tunnel for free, traced where I wanted to make my cuts




[url=https://postimg.cc/image/ye424kzjt/]


marked where I wanted to cut the auto tunnel and cut it out to match underside of manual tunnel




Forgot a picture, but drilled and placed rivits, then put down some seam sealer.




and finally installed the rivets.


CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER INSTALLATION

I trace a outline of the area cut out on the firewall on a piece of card stock, I just use junk mail, then center the clutch master cylinder on it to make a template.


then trace it to the firewall

adult photo sharing

then cut, and paint the raw metal


and install the CMC






1. INSTALL TRANSMISSION
a. Raise the engine front side.

b. Install pilot bearing.
c. install flywheel.
d. install clutch disc and pressure plate.
e. Align the input spline with a clutch disc and install the transmission to the engine.
HINT: Turn the transmission a little in the clockwise and jack up until just before the transmission housing touches the body.
c. Install the transmission and wire harness clamp with the 8 bolts. Torque:
Bolt A (12 mm head bolt): 71.6 Nm (730 kgf-cm, 53 ft. lbs.)
Bolt B 110 mm head bolt): 37.3 Nm (380 kgf-cm, 28 ft. lbs.)
2. INSTALL ENGINE REAR MOUNTING Install the engine rear mounting with 4 the bolts.
Torque: 25.5 Nm (260 kgf-cm, 19 ft. lbs.)
3. INSTALL REAR ENGINE MOUNTING MEMBER Install the rear engine mounting member with the 4 bolts and 4 nuts.
Torque:
Bolt: 25 Nm (255 kgf-cm, 18 ft. lbs.)
Nut: 13.5 Nm (138 kgf-cm, 10 ft. lbs.)
4. INSTALL STARTER
a. Install the starter with the 2 bolts. Torque: 37.3 Nm (380 kgf-cm, 28 ft. lbs.)
b. Install the wire with the nut. Torque: 9.8 Nm (10 kgf-cm, 7 ft. lbs.)
c. Connect the connector.
6. CONNECT BACK-UP LIGHT SWITCH CONNECTOR
7. CONNECT CLUTCH RELEASE CYLINDER, CLUTCH LINE BRACKET AND EARTH WIRE
a. Connect the clutch line and earth wire with the bolt. Torque:
Bolt A: 37.3 Nm (380 kgf-cm, 28 ft. lbs.)
b. Connect the clutch release cylinder with the 2 bolts. Torque:
Bolt B: 11.7 Nm (119 kgf-cm, 9 ft. lbs.)
8. INSTALL PROPELLER SHAFT
9. INSTALL FRONT AND CENTER EXHAUST PIPES
10. FILL WITH TRANSMISSION OIL Torque:
Filler and Drain plug: 38 Nm (387 kgf-cm, 28 ft. lbs.)
Oil grade: API GL-4 or GL-5
Viscosity: SAE 75W-90
Capacity: 2.6 L (2.7 US qts, 2.3 Imp. qts)
11. INSTALL NO. 1 REAR FLOOR BOARD
12. INSTALL LH FRONT FLOOR CENTER COVER
13. LOWER VEHICLE
14. INSTALL EXHAUST MANIFOLD
a. Install 2 new gaskets to the cylinder head.
b. Install the exhaust manifold with the 8 nuts. Uniformly tighten the nuts in several passes. Torque: 40 Nm (408 kgf-cm, 29 ft. lbs.)
c. Connect the heated oxygen sensor (bank 2 sensor 1) connector.
d. Install the case clamp.
15. INSTALL INTAKE AIR CONNECTOR
a. Install the intake air resonator to the throttle body, tighten the 2 hose clamp bolts.
b. Connect the PCV hose to the No. 2 cylinder head cover.
c. Connect the engine wire harness clamp to the air cleaner case.
d. Connect the MAP meter connector.
16. CONNECT RADIATOR UPPER HOSE NO. 1 FROM ENGINE
17. FILL WITH ENGINE COOLANT
18. INSTALL ENGINE COVER NO. 1 Torque: 5.0 Nm (51 kgf-cm, 44 inch lbs.)
19. INSTALL NO. 1 AND NO. 2 ENGINE UNDER COVERS
20. INSTALL TRANSMISSION SHIFT LEVER
a. Install the washer.
b. Apply MP grease to the tip of shift lever.
c. Install the shift lever with the 4 bolts. Torque: 8.0 Nm (82 kgf-cm, 71 inch lbs.)
21. INSTALL SHIFT BOOT
22. INSTALL SHIFT BOOT RETAINER
a. Install the shift boot retainer with the 4 bolts.
b. Connect the 2 wire harness clamps.
23. INSTALL UPPER CONSOLE PANEL AND CONSOLE BOX
24. DO ROAD TEST Check for abnormal noises and smooth shifting.


WIRING

ECU
The removal of the automatic transmission gives you around 10 CEL all transmission related. I picked up M/T ECU which does plug straight in “02+”, but I required reseeding since I did not get a master key. The dealership reseeded the ecu to my keys. 1 hour $130. This ultimately did not rid the CEL, 1 code for speed signal remained. Speed signal works as the following shows.

Auto
A/T ----------> ECU.
Trac ----------> Combo meter

Manual
M/T ----------> Combo meter
Combo Meter ----------> ECU

A converted car will work like this

Trac------------> Combo Meter
Combo Meter -------> ECU

So now we know we need to get the speed signal from the combo meter to the ECU here is how to do it.

ECU speed signal. Insert pin in combo meter harness A13 wire to ECU connector B11.











So now we have speed our CEL taken care of, lets do the neutral safety switch, and reverse light. This is the old connector from the automatic transmission that we need to use some wiring from. The actual numbers are on the connector.

REVERSE LIGHT



Reverse light. So from the old A/T wiring, take #2 and #3 And wire into new harness Part number 90980-11142. Then simply plug into reverse light plug on the transmission.*

NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH

Neutral safety switch. Reroute wire #6 and #9 to the the clutch pedal. connect wire 6 & 9 to Neutral safety switch. Part number 90980-10825


free upload


CRUISE CONTROL

Cruise control clutch switch. Cut B13 from ecu and wire to cruise control clutch switch, then to driver side fuse box harness 1A pin 4. Part number 90980-10906.


photo uploading


photo uploading websites


upload images free

Used wire protective wrap for wires from ecu and NSS. There is a nipple on the main grommet on firewall, i cut the tip off to feed my wires through.


free photo hosting

Didn't want to make holes in ecu box, turns out there is one already by front right corner.


adult photo hosting

TRACTION AND SNOW.

the pwr/snow button as you know is part of the auto shift assembly, on stock manual it is a two part trac off/snow under the radio and next to heated seats if your is so equipped. luckily most of the wiring is already where you need it. there is one wire you need to extend and that is the black and yellow wire that goes to your old pwr/snow button.

your stock wiring, as you compare to the next photo, you can clearly see only one wire needed black yellow.



this photo is courtesy of solidsnake. you can see that the wiring is not in the same order as the traction only button, so make sure your order is right. Also you may note that you need a 6 pin plug versus the 4 pin plug, i dont have the part number, but you can reuse this plug from the old wiring from you auto shifter where the old power/snow button was.





Update 11/08/12 this is probably going to be my last update mainly because there was only one real missing piece to the puzzle. Some questioned the legality of changing the transmission and being able to pass smog here in California with there strict laws. Well my registration renewal was finally due with a updated smog check. took it in and passed without a problem. It even notes that it is a manual transmission on the print out.

 
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29
#2 ·
Great write up!
I'm planning to do the same thing to my IS.
Can you elaborate more on the tunnel part? were you able to use the stock boot? what exactly did you do and use?

Thanks!!!
 
#4 ·
So you asked enough times so i updated the step with more pictures.
 
#5 ·
i wrote one of the 2 threads you linked in your post, so i didn't read through your entire write-up, since i've already done it, but WOW!! seems amaazing!!

do you have any pictures of how it looks finished? congrats on doing it so well!
 
#7 ·
yes, i read your thread numerous times. I wish i had a lift when doing mine, lucky. and your car looks amazing. I will have to get some pics up, right now im finishing up painted tails.
 
#10 ·
I love you.

Manual swap on my mom's SportCross starts next weekend ;)

Migs
 
#12 ·
#14 ·
Sounds good Alvaro lets just get this thing 100% complete so everyone can benefit.
 
#15 ·
How about the Auto transmission oil cooler pipes that connect to the radiator? Do those just get removed or does the manual have a place for them? I didn't see anything in the shop manual about it.
 
#18 ·
You can just remove the lines and cap the nipple sticking out of the radiator after you flush it out (optional)
 
#20 ·
Questions!

For no. 3 you said cut B13 (pink) and wire to cruise control clutch switch...where is that switch? There's no other mention of it or diagram.

For no. 4 I'm assuming you're cutting B11 and putting in the wire directly from the cluster...not leaving the existing B11 wire (yellow w/blue stripe) connected and simply tapping into it?

Thanks!

Migs
 
#22 ·
Hey Migs,

#3 I actually did take a picture but you probably didn't recognize it, it is the last one before #4. it was a bitch to take a picture of the cruise control clutch switch after it was installed, it is at the top of the assembly buried behind stuff. look at the other picture i have for reference





#4 there is not a wire in b11 on ecu for automatics. you must insert pin, also there is not a wire on back of cluster a13. you should see the hole between pink and yellow/green stripe wires. remember the diagram earlier in thread for speed.

Auto
A/T ----------> ECU.
Trac ----------> Combo meter
Manual
M/T ----------> Combo meter
Combo Meter ----------> ECU

Here is a link to the 02 and ecu pin out. Remember when looking at the diagram it is oriented from the bottom of the harness, NOT looking from the top.

http://my.is/forums/attachments/f88...0-ecu-pin-out-diagram-02-is300_ecu_pinout.zip
 
#23 · (Edited by Moderator)
#3: aaaaah ok I remember that now. I completely forgot there's another switch at the top of the pedal!

#4: I must be crazy but after counting again and again the only free spot I could find was B12 not B11. I'll check the pinout diagram you attached later tonight.


Thanks again for all your help!

Migs

Also... What did you use to unlock the pin from the ECU harness? A needle? the hole is incredibly small.

And will a pin from another Toyota harness work (like the one used for the combo meter)? I'm using an FJ wiring harness as a donor and there aren't any harnesses on it with pins as small as the IS' ECU
 
#24 ·
#3: aaaaah ok I remember that now. I completely forgot there's another switch at the top of the pedal!

#4: I must be crazy but after counting again and again the only free spot I could find was B12 not B11. I'll check the pinout diagram you attached later tonight.

Migs
You actually started to make me crazy to because I was looking at mine trying to figure it out, I forgot that the diagram was from the bottom view.

Also... What did you use to unlock the pin from the ECU harness? A needle? the hole is incredibly small.

And will a pin from another Toyota harness work (like the one used for the combo meter)? I'm using an FJ wiring harness as a donor and there aren't any harnesses on it with pins as small as the IS' ECU
I spent probably a hour trying to get those pins out of the ecu. Needles and everything. I ended up using some other pins from a old radio harness for the ecu. And then some pins from the old automatic gear selector, for the combo meter. Finding the right pins was the hardess part.
 
#25 ·
Aw crap.

Thanks! Haha
 
#26 ·
Youre gonna love this question...

Where is the reverse switch on the tranny? I can't see it anywhere as I look under the car...it's not on top of the tranny is it? Oh god.
 
#27 ·
Its the only wire hanging off the transmission, Lucky you i have spare in the garage to take a snap shot of. left hand or driver side of transmission, how is the rest of the wiring going?

 
#28 ·
Ya...I see no hanging wires. I think it may have been broken off by the previous owner when he took it out of his wrecked car.

Got the pins for the ecu from a junk harness at a Toyota dealer in town... So I'm looking pretty good now.

More updates coming!
 
#29 ·
I can probably take mine of the spare and sell it to you cheap. Let me know if you want it. Just make sure those pins are tight. I had one guy using pins he thought were the right ones, and he kept saying the wiring wasn't working I told him his pins were probably to big, when he finally changed them it worked perfect.
 
#30 ·
All is well!

Turns out I'm just blind and didn't see the that the wiring harness for the reverse switch was just caught up and buried in the tunnel on the left side of the tranny. I had been focusing all my attention on what I now know is the speed sensor (that doesn't get used) on the right side of the tranny as I couldn't see anything else when I first searched. What a waste of time!

The pin I got for the ECU was correct too.

The first drive was a RIOT. Had the car sideways instantly around every turn as I could finally rev it out. Unfortunately the CEL came back on after about 10 min of driving although with no change in performance. I suspect it's a fouled O2 sensor as the car has never been driven so hard in its life. I'll check it out once I get the chance.

Last thing to do is connect the cruise control wiring and finish cleaning up all the other wires but for now the car is finally running near perfectly and my moms ecstatic. Just need to wire up Token Solutions' Trac Off memory module too...

Thank you sooo much for your help Curran! I'll be sending you a PM soon ;)

Migs
 
#31 ·
Double post
 
#34 ·
^^That's the top of the transmission tunnel. It is spot welded to the body of the car. I was originally planning on doing that but I ended up getting an adapter plate (Thanks Brandon!) and drilled a hole for the transmission vent. The plate covers everything.
 
#35 ·
Coooooooool
 
#36 ·
I know you talked to me about doing the tunnel. Is the dash going to be removed for installing this?
 
#40 ·
zensokuryoku

I was online and saw a brochure talking about the sportcross and the manual release of 2002. And i talked about this part, and said that it reduced tension and reduced belt whine. I tried to find it again but so far i have not. I would consider doing it myself, if i didn't have different plans for the future. but since it seems your going all out, you should give it a shot. what are part cost for the change? how many miles do you have on your car? it might be a good thing to do when you do your timing belt. Im pretty sure these parts were replaced when i did mine.
 
#41 ·
I'm not quite clear on what you're referring to as the "manual release" Are you talking about the tensioner? I unfortunately did buy the manual trans tensioner and all associated hardware. It seems from other threads that it was an unnecessary purchase.

I'm probably about $2500 deep with a driveshaft still to be ordered.
Picked up:
W55 trans
competition clutch and flywheel from THmotorsports
trans tunnel hardware and other fasteners
clutch master, all the other stuff you posted
MT steering wheel
MT cluster
MT harness
MT ECU
etc

So far I've got 68k on the odometer, along with the MT cluster that I just got back from being adjusted to match my current mileage.

Timing belt and water pump was just done at 65k along with vvti cam gear/seal

As soon as I sort out the retarded mission to obtain drive shaft length, I will be ordering up an aluminum driveshaft from the driveshaft shop.

As far as i can tell, I'm at 53 1/8" for the length and 21 splines. Since no one has posted lengths, I'm in the dark as far as I know for ordering a drive shaft. I guess I'll just cross my fingers when it gets here.

and Migs, my Sportcross is Intensa Blue also :p
 
#43 ·
Thanks for the heads up. I will definitely give them a call. just an FYI for everyone, I called the driveshaft shop and apparently 53 1/8" with 21 splines is what they used to offer as an off the shelf item. However, I guess they had discrepancies with various cars so they require people to verify their own measurements.
 
#44 ·
Sportcross and manual release refers updates from 2001 when they did not have a manual transmission is300 or sportcross. I think that's pretty good pricing since your all the way in Hawaii and all. I'm pretty close to that amount, and I picked up all my stuff locally. Even though your not quite there on miles I would do the timing belt and associated parts now, just because your already got the car all torn apart anyway, but that just me.
 
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