I want to offer a counterpoint to the IMO - fake aggressive fitments, and post a real functionally aggressive fitment. This is the difference between having fitments that detract from cars drivability vs something that adds tremendous handling and traction. This is a no compromise daily driver that is expected to have realistic tire wear, usability, and performance. Also, lowering the car affects suspension geometry and travel negatively. Steps need to be taken to ensure performance is not lost and proper alignment can be maintained.
Front- 18x9 +38 255/35
Rear- 18x10.5 +48* 265/35 Room for 295/30's for future.
All fenders are slightly rolled and pulled.
*Additionally, the rear coilover upper mounting points were modified and set inboard by 1/4" to increase clearance. Under very hard cornering, the rear wheels will just touch the rear coilover spring. If you don't intend to run as aggressive tires, or don't mind a very pulled fender, you can and should go lower in offset or narrower wheel.
Rear Upper Coilover mount relocation for aggressive inboard clearance needs
Rear Toe Control Arm relocation to avoid rear toe steer from being slammed
Increased front suspension travel to support being slammed and maintain handling
Shortened, boxed, and TRD bushed rear lower arms to bring camber back inline
See picture AAR arms in picture above
Lightened and stiffened suspension via GS400 AL arms, Megan Toe Arm, TRD bushings