CXRacing coilover installation gone...weird - Page 2 - Lexus IS Forum
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post #16 of 30 (permalink) Old 01-02-2017, 11:56 PM
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Without you taking pics of the coilovers there's not way we can tell you if you did something wrong.
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post #17 of 30 (permalink) Old 01-03-2017, 05:05 PM Thread Starter
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Ohhhh this is good information fora multitude of reasons.

First I get to see that car which is super clean (always loved white is's).
Second it let's me know that that cap on top would work because it's the perfect amount of clearance I need to get my car sitting right (hopefully)
And three let's me tell you to not get these. They are nice. The build quality is great but if you were to lower them even halfway up the spindle your car would bottom out. Get BCs or (even better for cheaper) geckos. In fact I know a guy who sells them for cost to him and there my go to after I save the money for them.
There's no point in getting some decent coilovers when for the same price you can have more adjustment and a more qualified product.

Seriously though. I'm gonna try this when I get off work.
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post #18 of 30 (permalink) Old 01-03-2017, 05:07 PM Thread Starter
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I know thebinstallation is correct. These bad boys are just tiny.
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post #19 of 30 (permalink) Old 01-03-2017, 09:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cortlong50 View Post
Ohhhh this is good information fora multitude of reasons.

First I get to see that car which is super clean (always loved white is's).
Second it let's me know that that cap on top would work because it's the perfect amount of clearance I need to get my car sitting right (hopefully)
And three let's me tell you to not get these. They are nice. The build quality is great but if you were to lower them even halfway up the spindle your car would bottom out. Get BCs or (even better for cheaper) geckos. In fact I know a guy who sells them for cost to him and there my go to after I save the money for them.
There's no point in getting some decent coilovers when for the same price you can have more adjustment and a more qualified product.

Seriously though. I'm gonna try this when I get off work.
You're welcome, really looking forward to know if this works out for you.

Honestly, I've been set on CXracing coilovers for a while, mainly because of money constraints. I'm just a college student working a minimum wage job, and that extra $400 for BCs is a big deal to me. Can't find geckos anywhere either. Unless i can get the same quality and more adjustment for the same price as CXracing, I guess imma have to settle for it.
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post #20 of 30 (permalink) Old 01-03-2017, 11:33 PM Thread Starter
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This trick may have just saved my car. I got the perfect amount of clearance. Perfect. Like even without rolling them I think it will be perfect.
I don't know. I got stuck putting them on because my other struts wouldn't go back in (it was a disaster.) and now that I've put the top ring from the stock struts upside down in there it cleared right where I needed it and looks exactly how I wanted it. Not too low and tasteful.
I feel like these coilovers aren't really the best purchase. There's better ones out there for similar price. Straight up. The build quality is incredible but I feel like the versatility is not there. An extra inch on their lower shaft would've gone a long way.

Either way. Got em in and they sit well after using the trick of putting the original metal cap from the struts upside down on top of it. Thanks for the advice! Seriously creative and to me...not really all that ghetto. (I'm obsessed with keeping this car clean and worked on well)

Here are photos of it all done up and ready for battle. Compared to the original (the last pictures). That minor height difference made it much more feasible and functional. The difference is minor but when you're tucking like that the littlest things make a difference for a daily driver.
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post #21 of 30 (permalink) Old 01-03-2017, 11:48 PM Thread Starter
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Pictures are giving me a pain on the upload front.
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post #22 of 30 (permalink) Old 01-04-2017, 01:08 AM
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Good idea. Spacers are likely a better use in this situation than over-extending factory suspension on a truck.

Really, I think most coilover options will end up in the same boat just due to the drop. The IS is annoyingly sensitive in this area... anything beyond a basic Eibach spring for lowering should just be purchased with Figs essential lowering kit. My IS felt good with eibach springs and Hotchkis sways for street driving... but the change to coilovers really made me wish I had installed the coilovers+'rear control arms+toe arms+...' at the same time.

There are still benefits to coils... besides being able to choose spring rates and lengths easier on coils, I saw pretty huge weight savings as the HKS coils were 5-6 lbs lighter per corner...
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post #23 of 30 (permalink) Old 01-04-2017, 02:23 AM Thread Starter
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Speaking of which.

What are your recommended "must haves" when lowering your car to ensure longevity and to make sure it actually handles well and doesn't get beat half to death in the wheel well? Should I do camber plates and steering arms? Control arms and stuff like that?

Like you said. Very sensitive in this area.

Toyota is famous for two things.
Engines that last as long as you put gasoline and oil in them (the latter I'm not even sure of anymore. I know a guy who hasn't changed his oil on his forerunner for 8 years. He just tops it off. So the jury is out on that one.)
And suspension that sucks. Plain and simple. Very touchy and finicky suspension.

So yeah. I want to ensure the life of my suspension. This car is going to last and I want everything done right. This isn't going to be a hack job.

So if you recommended anything let me know.

And by the way. I appreciate all the input. It's all helpful and informative. I cruise other forums and it's like a gang of animals going at each other. So thanks for all the input. I'll keep the build thread and post it once it's where I want it and my works hit the rotors.
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post #24 of 30 (permalink) Old 01-04-2017, 06:54 AM
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Looks to me like they're simply adjusted wrong. There's plenty of throw above the upper perch. Looks like you can set the height by loosening the lower lock and turning the whole upper (or lower) to and if that's not enough you could loosen the lower locks and adjust the locks up higher.

You're adjusting the upper perches with the car at full droop right? Basically you need to jack the car up from the center so both wheels are hanging free to set the pre-load. If not and you try to do it from a side jack without disconnecting the sway-bar, you can't get full droop.

People need to keep in mind that when you jack from the side, you're twisting the sway bar, loading the sway bar end links and preventing the wheel you're jacking up from achieving full droop. I'm just guessing that this is the issue it looks like the pre-load is too low on the upper perch which made me wonder if you adjusted them at full droop.

Quote:
and to make sure it actually handles well
Don't lower it too far or it'll jack up the suspension geometry. All these people driving ultra low IS's have simply fucked up the handling. For driving on the street that doesn't matter much since you can't really push the suspension but the idea that lowering improves handling is a joke. It lowers the CG a bit and looks better but the lower you go, the worse it likely handles. Same thing for new wheels. If you install wheels that don't maintain the stock scrub-radius, the car won't feel very good while driving it.

Last edited by Ek9B18; 01-04-2017 at 07:00 AM.
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post #25 of 30 (permalink) Old 01-05-2017, 11:51 AM
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I can never actually load the 'forum' attached photos on this site and assume it's just knock off IS300 coil problems... but check out youtube vid on doing adjustments and make sure you have tried all the adjustment like EK says.

Figs essential lowering kit has caster bushings, toe links and rear arms which is a good start. FIGS MEGA Arm Essential Kit for lowering IS300 2GS SC430 JZX110

I plan on doing more geometry correction for this summer and seeing where I'm happy. I don't like the look of the wheel gap on these cars where it needs to be for track duty. And when you go too low (which would be a normal amount of low on most cars), there is a lot more than just the basic FIGS lowering kit that could use correction... sway bar location, front suspension and lack of camber correction in stock form , etc.

Right now, I find bump steer most annoying and is easily encountered, so going to start with rear toe links. Also going to try to figure out a better balance on the height. I only tried raising the one coil when I put them on originally, and maybe it was just being a b-tch and I've been muttering about it without putting more effort into it. Then muck around making a few spacers or brackets - like on sway bar, possibly RCA, etc.. and see when I enjoy the handling again. One of the other problems is that I want to hit the drag strip a few times next summer and we have no close tracks anymore to enjoy the fruits of my tweaking.
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post #26 of 30 (permalink) Old 01-08-2017, 01:19 PM Thread Starter
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Well good news it's been snowing is Utah for the past two weeks and now my fender is starting to push out because of having to drive a little more aggressively to not get stuck.
Well now it's starting to pull itself.

I don't understand why this passenger side rubs so much more when I'm looking st it and measuring it it comes out exactly the same. Is there a reason the passenger side would rub more?
And how do I avoid it? I can't find anyone to roll it until Thursday. And it's killing me.
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post #27 of 30 (permalink) Old 01-09-2017, 09:36 PM
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I will be installing these this weekend if I have free time. I'm going to measure the full length of the old coilover while still on the car while I have it raised from the center. Then I'm going to take out said coilover, put in the cx and tighten up top and bottom bolts, then adjust the coilover's height to where the previous coilover measured at. After that, I'm going to preload the spring 5mm just like the instructions that it came with said.
whatthe likes this.
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post #28 of 30 (permalink) Old 01-10-2017, 03:56 PM
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Originally Posted by cortlong50 View Post
Well good news it's been snowing is Utah for the past two weeks and now my fender is starting to push out because of having to drive a little more aggressively to not get stuck.
Well now it's starting to pull itself.

I don't understand why this passenger side rubs so much more when I'm looking st it and measuring it it comes out exactly the same. Is there a reason the passenger side would rub more?
And how do I avoid it? I can't find anyone to roll it until Thursday. And it's killing me.
how many miles are on your car?
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post #29 of 30 (permalink) Old 01-20-2017, 10:25 PM
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I will be installing these this weekend if I have free time. I'm going to measure the full length of the old coilover while still on the car while I have it raised from the center. Then I'm going to take out said coilover, put in the cx and tighten upp and bottom bolts, then adjust the coilover's height to where the previous coilover measured at. After that, I'm going to preload the spring 5mm just like the instructions that it came with said.
How are the results?

Starting to look at my suspension again here and this is my setup in full droop vs. stock car on the ground. To me it looks like my full droop is almost like stock on the ground.



The HKS coilovers are supposed to not require any adjustment. Unlike most coilover brands they come preset, and usually you can throw them on and drive. although the threads go further, their recommended range is within 20mm I believe. My complaints revolve more around geometry and these aftermarket camber arms banging.

Looking over the instructions for the cheaper brands like these, they say that you need to adjust them, but if you pre-load them warranty is void. How much height can these actually gain without compressing the springs and reducing shock travel in some form?
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post #30 of 30 (permalink) Old 01-27-2017, 11:47 AM
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Originally Posted by whatthe View Post
How are the results?

Starting to look at my suspension again here and this is my setup in full droop vs. stock car on the ground. To me it looks like my full droop is almost like stock on the ground.



The HKS coilovers are supposed to not require any adjustment. Unlike most coilover brands they come preset, and usually you can throw them on and drive. although the threads go further, their recommended range is within 20mm I believe. My complaints revolve more around geometry and these aftermarket camber arms banging.

Looking over the instructions for the cheaper brands like these, they say that you need to adjust them, but if you pre-load them warranty is void. How much height can these actually gain without compressing the springs and reducing shock travel in some form?
Install was straight forward and everything went smooth, but I don't fully understand your question.
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