I'm New and Want MORE POWER for my IS300 - Page 3 - Lexus IS Forum
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post #31 of 141 (permalink) Old 01-17-2008, 10:22 AM
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he STILL hasnt come out with cams?!

Is300 shoppin'
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post #32 of 141 (permalink) Old 01-17-2008, 01:15 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by 95snoozer View Post
he STILL hasnt come out with cams?!
nope, last I asked him it was for the new year, someone else said its been changed to February. We'll see.

Have a question? Try the my.is FAQ or, if you can't find an answer there, search before posting your question (hopefully in the correct forum).

2002 IS300 5mt. MSM stock for now
Cobra Project:
FFR MKIII '65 Cobra Replicar - 427 cid V-8 (thats 7.0 liters) engine 525hp/520lb-ft torque at the flywheel (and this is in a 2200 pound car) Painted Lexus Spectra Blue Mica with GM Arctic White stripes -- now street legal
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post #33 of 141 (permalink) Old 01-18-2008, 01:30 AM
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say i were to choose option 3. What would be the average horsepower gain for all that stuff. Is it worth it to do this? Does it make it that much faster or should i just go boost?
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post #34 of 141 (permalink) Old 01-18-2008, 08:52 AM
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its personal preference. would you want to spend 2500+ for roughly 30 rwhp and roughly 200-215 at the wheels? or 5-8k for between 285-350 at the wheels.

You may get a somewhat biased opinion in this section. I am on the side of doing only an srt intake and cruising it until i would buy a turbo. I wouldnt want to get exhaust that i would upgrade in the event of a turbo upgrade.

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post #35 of 141 (permalink) Old 02-05-2008, 04:19 PM
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[QUOTE=longnights;5095059]So, you're new to the site (or at least to modifying you're IS300) and you want more power, but want to keep the drivability and reliability of a naturally aspirated IS. Here are some suggestions to get you started, be forewarned that there are many different opinions on many of these parts. This thread will cover a couple different scenarios, follow the one that best fits the image you want to fill:
1. I want more power, enough to feel, but I want to stay quiet and have no headaches like CELs or black soot coming from the exhaust.
2. I want a lot more power, I still donít want any headaches like CELs and I still want to keep the car fairly quiet.
3. I want as much horsepower as I can economically get, I still donít want CELs, but noise and tuning are okay.


Scenario 1:

Intake
Joe-Z (or PLP SFI, though this is no longer manufactured, they still sometimes pop up for sale in the member sale/trade forum) upgraded intake pipe and a drop-in air filter (consult the IS300 Bolt on Upgrades Catalogue Sticky)
Price
$99 plus $8 shipping from the my.is store
Installation
30 minutes, easy enough for anyone to install on their own car
Why?
Both the Joe-Z and PLP retain the stock airbox, they merely replace the pipe from the airbox to the throttle body. The OEM pipe has a resonator and baffles which quiet the intake down some but also slows and disrupts airflow through the pipe, limiting the amount of air available for combustion in the engine. Both of these upgraded pipes are straight through and make for less resistance. Retaining the stock airbox does two things; it keeps the intake fairly quiet and it also makes the modification less noticeable to anyone inspecting your car, especially if you stick with the anodized black version (call it CARB unnoticeable instead of legal). The aftermarket drop-in air filter will also improve air-flow. There are a couple types of these, foam and cotton generally, many of the cotton ones are cleanable and re-oilable. Personally, I recommend avoiding the re-oilable ones as excess oil can damage the mass airflow sensor (MAF) in the intake pipe.

Header
TurboEast/OBX/Toyomoto/Alphaworks/Megan Racing/any ebay header, there are only two designs for all these headers, long runner and short runner, they are basically one-offs of each other, many of them actually made by the same company. Make sure the header comes with nuts, bolts and gaskets. You will also need an o2 simulator to trick the ECU into not realizing you removed two catalytic converters
Price
Last header I saw on ebay was $190 plus shipping (new)
O2 simulators are usually ~$30-40
Installation
If you arenít afraid to work on your car, get a friend and expect to spend 3-4 hours doing this, it is fairly easily done with a lift, though many do without one. The o2 simulator will require that you cut and cut and solder some wires. If you donít do it yourself, expect to pay $200 to $300 to have a shop install the header for you.
Why?
These are all pretty generic headers and there arenít many differences between them. Theoretically, the short runner designs will make more power down low and not as much up high in the RPM range while long runner designs will gain more up high, though there isnít anything to prove that among these headers. The o2 simulator is required because there are 4 sensors in the exhaust, 3 on the header and 1 on the y-pipe that measure oxygen and fuel levels in your exhaust to determine if your catalytic converters are properly functioning, two are ahead of the cats, then the one after them should detect lower levels because of the upstream cats. Because we are removing the cats, this will not be true, however, the o2 simulator will imitate the ďeverything is fineĒ signal from the o2 sensors so the ECU doesnít know there is a problem.

Y-Pipe
Keep the stock one!
Why?
The stock y pipe will put some restriction in the exhaust which will keep some backpressure around to make more torque. An exhaust can actually be not restrictive enough; some of the people on the forum have actually lost power when they added a y-pipe to their exhaust system. Keeping the stock y-pipe will also keep the last of the stock catalytic converters, this will clean up the exhaust so you donít get the black soot commonly seen on the rear bumpers of cars without catalytic converters. All of this together will keep down the volume of your system as well.

Exhaust
Whatever you want, all of the exhausts for the IS make about the same gains whether they are cat-back or axle-back. Pick your exhaust out based on the sound you like, sound is a subjective property, what one person likes, another may find loud and ďricey.Ē Once again, check the IS300 Bolt-on Upgrades Catalogue sticky for ideas, it lists 8 cat-back and 9 axle-back systems.
Price
Depending on the exhaust you choose, anywhere between $300 and $600, people switch exhausts like crazy, check the member sale/trade forum for some deals
Installation
Also easily installed, get a jack, a 14mm wrench (longer the better) and 30 minutes to put on a new exhaust (a penetrating lubricant like PB blaster might also be necessary if your bolts are stuck).
Why?
Whether you decide on cat-back or axle-back, the rear section of the exhaust does more for the sound of your car than it does for power, most make 5-8 horsepower, but every exhaust sounds different. In my opinion, you canít go wrong with a Tanabe, Borla, or L-Tuned, these are all on the quieter end of the spectrum and all produce a deep sound, though the Borla and L-Tuned are both discontinued and very difficult to find.

Results
Results will depend on whether your car is an automatic or manual as well as the dyno but should be in the 185 to 195rwhp range, lower end for automatics, higher end for manuals. Stock autos should dyno in the 170-175 range and manuals should dyno in the 180-185 range, so you are looking at 15hp or so worth of gains at the wheels.

Conclusion
Joe-Z intake - $107
Whatever header you get - ~$210 depending on shipping
O2 sensor - $40
Exhaust - $300-$600

Self installed Ė $657 to $957
Shop installed - $857 to $1257


im probably just not understanding this.
but doesnt the 300 come with 215 sotck horsepower?
if you could..just explain so i understand?
hhaha
thanks
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post #36 of 141 (permalink) Old 02-05-2008, 04:23 PM Thread Starter
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Those numbers are what you would get if you put the car on a dyno, which measures horsepower and torque at the wheels. Manufacturers use engine dynos to measure power output at the engine and don't include driveline losses which are typically around 20% on an automatic transmission car and 15% on a manual transmission car. The power figures I included are educated guesses based on what other members have achieved.

Have a question? Try the my.is FAQ or, if you can't find an answer there, search before posting your question (hopefully in the correct forum).

2002 IS300 5mt. MSM stock for now
Cobra Project:
FFR MKIII '65 Cobra Replicar - 427 cid V-8 (thats 7.0 liters) engine 525hp/520lb-ft torque at the flywheel (and this is in a 2200 pound car) Painted Lexus Spectra Blue Mica with GM Arctic White stripes -- now street legal
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post #37 of 141 (permalink) Old 02-05-2008, 04:28 PM
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ohhhh.
sorry im a newbie.
thanks though.
i think my parents are getting me an 05 is330 for my birthday
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post #38 of 141 (permalink) Old 02-05-2008, 04:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nilescozy View Post
im probably just not understanding this.
but doesnt the 300 come with 215 sotck horsepower?
if you could..just explain so i understand?
hhaha
thanks
You are correct but you're missing a piece of the puzzle.

The engine makes 215hp but not all of that power makes it to the ground. When power leaves the rear of the engine it then has to turn...
-the clutch or torque converter (depending on if it's a manual or AT)
-transmission gears
-driveshaft
-rear end gears
-axles
-wheels and tires

So all that stuff is heavy and takes power to turn. The amount of power it takes to turn all of that is subtracted from the power the engine makes and you get the amount of power that "hits the ground" called Wheel Horsepower.

The manual transmission IS300 makes 180whp stock and the automatic IS300's make about 170ish I think.

Quote:
Originally Posted by DJPoop View Post
This is the future of engine technology. There is a replacement for displacement, and it's called efficiency.
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post #39 of 141 (permalink) Old 02-05-2008, 04:30 PM
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longnights beat me to it...grrrrr

Quote:
Originally Posted by DJPoop View Post
This is the future of engine technology. There is a replacement for displacement, and it's called efficiency.
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post #40 of 141 (permalink) Old 02-05-2008, 04:31 PM
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So how much quicker do you think it could make the car? I would want to modify mine but i wouldn't have enough money to put into it to SC it or turbo. So I was thinking I could just do something small and hopefully improve the quickness
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post #41 of 141 (permalink) Old 02-05-2008, 04:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nilescozy View Post
So how much quicker do you think it could make the car? I would want to modify mine but i wouldn't have enough money to put into it to SC it or turbo. So I was thinking I could just do something small and hopefully improve the quickness
if I could only do 1 single mod to my car, short of boost, it would be the Mazzuri header, without a doubt.

Quote:
Originally Posted by DJPoop View Post
This is the future of engine technology. There is a replacement for displacement, and it's called efficiency.
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post #42 of 141 (permalink) Old 02-05-2008, 04:46 PM
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Ok, I'm new to the forum and have some questions. I'm thinking of trading my Sti for an IS 300. I know they are not very quick stock and I read about the horse power gains of the above mods. My question is how fast (0-60 time) can I make a N/A automatic Is300? Also I need to be able to pass emissions tests. Any information would be greatly appreciated.
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post #43 of 141 (permalink) Old 02-05-2008, 04:53 PM
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if I could only do 1 single mod to my car, short of boost, it would be the Mazzuri header, without a doubt.
how much quicker do you think that could make it?
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post #44 of 141 (permalink) Old 02-05-2008, 04:55 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ManUTD12 View Post
Ok, I'm new to the forum and have some questions. I'm thinking of trading my Sti for an IS 300. I know they are not very quick stock and I read about the horse power gains of the above mods. My question is how fast (0-60 time) can I make a N/A automatic Is300? Also I need to be able to pass emissions tests. Any information would be greatly appreciated.
not particularly fast, depending on what emissions requirements you have to meet (ie. do they perform a sniffer test) you may be able to get away with a header, as you can see from the list though, the IS doesn't respond particularly well to NA mods and won't get all that much faster.

If you wanted to really spend some money you could probably pass emissions with a BC stroker kit, 3.4liters of displacement.

Have a question? Try the my.is FAQ or, if you can't find an answer there, search before posting your question (hopefully in the correct forum).

2002 IS300 5mt. MSM stock for now
Cobra Project:
FFR MKIII '65 Cobra Replicar - 427 cid V-8 (thats 7.0 liters) engine 525hp/520lb-ft torque at the flywheel (and this is in a 2200 pound car) Painted Lexus Spectra Blue Mica with GM Arctic White stripes -- now street legal
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post #45 of 141 (permalink) Old 02-05-2008, 09:50 PM
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^when he says spend money on the BC kit, he's talking first born child

Quote:
Originally Posted by DJPoop View Post
This is the future of engine technology. There is a replacement for displacement, and it's called efficiency.
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