Auto to Manual Swap, Wiring, Ecu, CC, NSS, CLSW
What
There have been excellent write ups on my.is on how to Swap your A/T for MT. Personally they gave me the inspiration to do the swap and also the courage. However the write ups were mainly for people with different goals, leaving many questions unanswered. My main goal was to have a stock M/T without the expense and task of changing the auto wire harness, The goal of this thread is to be a complete source for all information related to swapping your transmission. At the end of the project cruise control works, no cel, car runs better then with auto ecu.
Why
I have always loved the IS300, but have enjoyed the practicality of wagons, and never knew a sportcross exist, until I started to research the IS300 and saw it, and knew I had to have one. After owning it, I wanted what little power it had to be more accessible. Lexus did not make a M/T sportcross so I had to make my own. End results? I love it. I also have a 01 Auto IS, and going to back to that it is clear to me that I made the right decision.
These threads are excellent sources for information, and possibly part numbers if buying new. I will also give a list of parts I picked up for the swap. Most of them used from auto recyclers, or craigslist. with approximate prices paid. Some photos borrowed, for illustration purposes. I will try to update with more pictures.
my w55 auto to manual 5spd swap with 02+ wiring
R154 – THE Ultimate Auto to Manual Swap Info Thread
w55 transmission
shifter
Slave cylinder $400
Royal Purple 3 quarts $60
Clutch Pedal
neutral saftey switch
cruise control clutch switch
Clutch master cylinder
Clutch Line
Shift boot
Flywheel
Manual brake pedal $400
Manual drive shaft
Rear engine “transmission” mount
Stock Shift knob
Transmission cross member $200
Auto LSD $400
Manual Steering Wheel
Manual Cluster $200
New pressure plate & clutch disk $120
M/T Ecu $80
M/T Ecu installation $140
Total price $2000
This price could easily be lower, but when I found used parts, knowing how rare they are, I knew I could only haggle so much. Also many of these parts arent necessary ie lsd, cluster, steering wheel, your end goals may be different. But I wanted a stock looking 5 speed.
Removing the Automatic Transmission
1. REMOVAL
2. REMOVE LEVEL GAUGE
3. REMOVE FILLER PIPE Remove the bolt and filler pipe with the O-ring.
3. REMOVE AIR CLEANER, MAP METER AND INTAKE AIR CONNECTOR PIPE ASSEMBLY
4. REMOVE EXHAUST MANIFOLD WITH TWC
a. Disconnect the 3 connectors.
b. Remove the 8 nuts, 2 gaskets and exhaust manifold with the TWC. Torque: 39 Nm (400 kgf-cm, 29 ft. lbs.)
5. RAISE VEHICLE
NOTICE: Make sure that the vehicle is securely supported.
6. REMOVE NO. 1 AND NO. 2 ENGINE UNDER COVERS
7. REMOVE LH FRONT FLOOR CENTER COVER
8. REMOVE NO. 1 REAR FLOOR BOARD
9. DRAIN ENGINE COOLANT
10. REMOVE UPPER RADIATOR HOSE FROM RADIATOR
11. REMOVE FRONT AND CENTER EXHAUST PIPES
12. REMOVE SHIFT CONTROL ROD
a. Remove the nut and washer, and disconnect the rod. Torque: 13 Nm (130 kgf-cm, 9 ft. lbs.)
b. Remove the nut and shift control rod. Torque: 13 Nm (130 kgf-cm, 9 ft. lbs.)
13. REMOVE PROPELLER SHAFT
14. DISCONNECT OIL COOLER PIPE
a. Remove the 3 bolts and 3 clamps. Torque: 5.4 Nm (55 kgf-cm, 48 inch lbs.)
b. Loosen the 2 union nuts from the transmission. Torque: 44 Nm (450 kgf-cm, 33 ft. lbs.)
NOTICE: Be careful not to damage the oil cooler pipe.
c. Disconnect the 2 oil cooler pipes from the transmission.
15. REMOVE TORQUE CONVERTER CLUTCH MOUNTING BOLT
a. Remove the hole plug.
b. Turn the crankshaft to gain access to each bolt.
c. Hold the crankshaft pulley nut with a wrench and remove the 6 bolts. Torque: 48 Nm (490 kgf-cm, 35 ft. lbs.)
16. SUPPORT TRANSMISSION WITH JACK
17. REMOVE 4 ENGINE REAR SUPPORT MEMBER SET BOLTS Torque: 25 Nm (260 kgf-cm, 19 ft. lbs.)
18. DISCONNECT CONNECTORS AND WIRE HARNESS
a. Tilt down the transmission.
NOTICE: Take care so that the cooling fan does not come in contact with the fan shroud.
b. Disconnect the following connectors:
1. O/D direct clutch speed sensor connector
2. Vehicle speed sensor connector
3. Park/neutral position switch connector
4. Solenoid connector
c. Disconnect the wire harness from the clamps on the transmission.
19. REMOVE STARTER
a. Disconnect the connector and wire from the starter.
b. Remove the 2 bolts and starter. Torque: 37 Nm (380 kgf-cm, 27 ft. lbs.)
20. REMOVE TRANSMISSION Remove the 9 bolts, ground cable and transmission.
Torque:
17 mm head: 72 Nm (730 kgf-cm, 53 ft. lbs.)
14 mm head: 37 Nm (380 kgf-cm, 27 ft. lbs.)
Tunnel modifcation.
The M/T is higher than the A/T requiring some type of tunnel modification. I see most swappers use spacers to lower the M/T and “bang” out the tunnel, for room for the breather valve. I opted not to do this. Reading about M/T experiences, there is talk about a “thumping” sound. Some theorize it comes from transmission others the drive-shaft. I did not want to use spacers possibly intensifying this sound, so increased the overall size of the shifter opening to accomidate the “breather Valve”. This Required to box in the larger opening. .
here you can see that manual goes up slightly. If you look at a auto, it goes down. Giving about 1" differnce.
Here you can see the breather valve above the sheet metal.
the square tubing is 3/4 and the top is 14 guage. its pretty solid, and just sprayed it down with flat black.
1. INSTALL TRANSMISSION
a. Raise the engine front side.
b. Install pilot bearing.
c. install flywheel.
d. install clutch disc and pressure plate.
e. Align the input spline with a clutch disc and install the transmission to the engine.
HINT: Turn the transmission a little in the clockwise and jack up until just before the transmission housing touches the body.
c. Install the transmission and wire harness clamp with the 8 bolts. Torque:
Bolt A (12 mm head bolt): 71.6 Nm (730 kgf-cm, 53 ft. lbs.)
Bolt B 110 mm head bolt): 37.3 Nm (380 kgf-cm, 28 ft. lbs.)
2. INSTALL ENGINE REAR MOUNTING Install the engine rear mounting with 4 the bolts.
Torque: 25.5 Nm (260 kgf-cm, 19 ft. lbs.)
3. INSTALL REAR ENGINE MOUNTING MEMBER Install the rear engine mounting member with the 4 bolts and 4 nuts.
Torque:
Bolt: 25 Nm (255 kgf-cm, 18 ft. lbs.)
Nut: 13.5 Nm (138 kgf-cm, 10 ft. lbs.)
4. INSTALL STARTER
a. Install the starter with the 2 bolts. Torque: 37.3 Nm (380 kgf-cm, 28 ft. lbs.)
b. Install the wire with the nut. Torque: 9.8 Nm (10 kgf-cm, 7 ft. lbs.)
c. Connect the connector.
6. CONNECT BACK-UP LIGHT SWITCH CONNECTOR
7. CONNECT CLUTCH RELEASE CYLINDER, CLUTCH LINE BRACKET AND EARTH WIRE
a. Connect the clutch line and earth wire with the bolt. Torque:
Bolt A: 37.3 Nm (380 kgf-cm, 28 ft. lbs.)
b. Connect the clutch release cylinder with the 2 bolts. Torque:
Bolt B: 11.7 Nm (119 kgf-cm, 9 ft. lbs.)
8. INSTALL PROPELLER SHAFT
9. INSTALL FRONT AND CENTER EXHAUST PIPES
10. FILL WITH TRANSMISSION OIL Torque:
Filler and Drain plug: 38 Nm (387 kgf-cm, 28 ft. lbs.)
Oil grade: API GL-4 or GL-5
Viscosity: SAE 75W-90
Capacity: 2.6 L (2.7 US qts, 2.3 Imp. qts)
11. INSTALL NO. 1 REAR FLOOR BOARD
12. INSTALL LH FRONT FLOOR CENTER COVER
13. LOWER VEHICLE
14. INSTALL EXHAUST MANIFOLD
a. Install 2 new gaskets to the cylinder head.
b. Install the exhaust manifold with the 8 nuts. Uniformly tighten the nuts in several passes. Torque: 40 Nm (408 kgf-cm, 29 ft. lbs.)
c. Connect the heated oxygen sensor (bank 2 sensor 1) connector.
d. Install the case clamp.
15. INSTALL INTAKE AIR CONNECTOR
a. Install the intake air resonator to the throttle body, tighten the 2 hose clamp bolts.
b. Connect the PCV hose to the No. 2 cylinder head cover.
c. Connect the engine wire harness clamp to the air cleaner case.
d. Connect the MAP meter connector.
16. CONNECT RADIATOR UPPER HOSE NO. 1 FROM ENGINE
17. FILL WITH ENGINE COOLANT
18. INSTALL ENGINE COVER NO. 1 Torque: 5.0 Nm (51 kgf-cm, 44 inch lbs.)
19. INSTALL NO. 1 AND NO. 2 ENGINE UNDER COVERS
20. INSTALL TRANSMISSION SHIFT LEVER
a. Install the washer.
b. Apply MP grease to the tip of shift lever.
c. Install the shift lever with the 4 bolts. Torque: 8.0 Nm (82 kgf-cm, 71 inch lbs.)
21. INSTALL SHIFT BOOT
22. INSTALL SHIFT BOOT RETAINER
a. Install the shift boot retainer with the 4 bolts.
b. Connect the 2 wire harness clamps.
23. INSTALL UPPER CONSOLE PANEL AND CONSOLE BOX
24. DO ROAD TEST Check for abnormal noises and smooth shifting.
Wiring. There are lots of diagrams for you visual people "showing my work"
ECU
The removal of the automatic transmission gives you around 10 CEL all transmission related. I picked up M/T ECU which does plug straight in “02+”, but I required reseeding since I did not get a master key. The dealership reseeded the ecu to my keys. 1 hour $130. This ultimately did not rid the CEL, 1 code for speed signal remained. Speed signal works as the following shows.
Auto
A/T ----------> ECU.
Trac ----------> Combo meter
Manual
M/T ----------> Combo meter
Combo Meter ----------> ECU
A converted car will work like this
Trac------------> Combo Meter
Combo Meter -------> ECU
Wiring
I like to use factory harness connectors as much as possible, part numbers are listed.
[IMG]
1. Reverse light. So from the old A/T wiring, take #2 and #3 And wire into new harness Part number 90980-11142. Then simply plug into reverse light plug on the transmission.
2. Neutral safety switch. Reroute wire 6 and 9 to the the clutch pedal. connect wire 6 & 9 to NSS. Part number 90980-10825
[IMG]
[/IMG]
3. Cruise control clutch switch. Cut B13 on ecu and wire to cruise control clutch switch, then to driver side fuse box harness 1A pin 4. Part number 90980-10906.
4. ECU speed signal. Insert pin in combo meter harness A13 wire to ECU connector B11.
[IMG]
Used wire protective wrap for wires from ecu and NSS. There is a nipple on the main grommet on firewall, i cut the tip off to feed my wires through.
Didn't want to make holes in ecu box, turns out there is one already by front right corner.
5. Traction/Snow button
the pwr/snow button as you know is part of the auto shift assembly, on stock manual it is a two part trac off/snow under the radio and next to heated seats if your is so equipped. luckily most of the wiring is already where you need it. there is one wire you need to extend and that is the black and yellow wire that goes to your old pwr/snow button.
your stock wiring, as you compare to the next photo, you can clearly see only one wire needed black yellow.
this photo is courtesy of solidsnake. you can see that the wiring is not in the same order as the traction only button, so make sure your order is right. Also you may note that you need a 6 pin plug versus the 4 pin plug, i dont have the part number yet but will update when i do.
there was some speculation that the old pwr/snow button will work in for the trac/snow button. It does to a point, there will need to be some trimming of your "bezel" to make it work, and also i noticed you need to pushing the button is differnt, it doesnt click out the same. it would be best to just source a traction/snow button. but here is mine temporarily. ***Update, i never put these two pieces of the puzzle together, you know how the the pwr button has a memory for the automatics, so once you turn your trac to a pwr button every time you start your car it will automatically have traction turned off! i will now keep it in instead of replacing it!******
Steering Wheel
I wanted stock 5 Speed look, so I opted to swap them out.
REMOVAL
1. REMOVE STEERING WHEEL PAD
NOTICE: If the airbag connector is disconnected with the ignition switch at ON or ACC, DTCs will be recorded.
a. Place the front wheels facing straight ahead.
b. Remove the 2 steering wheel lower No. 2 covers.
c. Using a torx socket wrench, loosen the 2 torx screws.
HINT: Loosen the 2 screws until the groove along the screw circumference catches on the screw case.
d. Pull out the wheel pad from the steering wheel and disconnect the airbag connector.
CAUTION:
When storing the wheel pad, keep the upper surface of the pad facing upward.
Never disassemble the wheel pad.
NOTICE: When removing the wheel pad, take care not to pull the airbag wire harness.
2. REMOVE STEERING WHEEL
a. Disconnect the connector.
b. Remove the steering wheel set nut.
c. Place matchmarks on the steering wheel and main shaft assembly.
d. Using SST, remove the wheel. SST 09950-50013 (09951-05010, 09952-05010, 09953-05020, 09954-05021)
1. INSTALL STEERING WHEEL PAD
Combo Meter
Once again wanted stock look. Found used one only 4000 miles off from my actual mileage. Remove 3 screws holding bezel. Remove 3 screws holding cluster. Exchange with new one.
Limited slip Differntial
REMOVAL
1. REMOVE NO. 1 REAR FLOOR BOARD
2. DRAIN DIFFERENTIAL OIL
3. DISCONNECT 2 STABILIZER BAR BRACKETS Remove the 4 bolts and 2 brackets from the rear suspension member.
4. DISCONNECT STABILIZER BAR LINK FROM STABILIZER BAR Remove the 2 nuts and disconnect the stabilizer bar links,
HINT: If the ball joint turns together with the nut, use a hexagon wrench (5 mm) to hold the stud.
5. REMOVE PROPELLER SHAFT
6. REMOVE EXHAUST PIPE ASSEMBLY
7. REMOVE RH AND LH REAR SUSPENSION MEMBER BRACES
a. Remove the 2 bolts and suspension member brace.
b. Employ the same manner described to the other side.
8. DISCONNECT RH AND LH DRIVE SHAFTS FROM SIDE GEAR SHAFTS
a. Place matchmarks on the drive shaft and side gear shaft.
NOTICE: Do not punch the matchmarks.
b. Using an 8 mm hexagon wrench, remove the 6 hexagon bolts and 3 washers, while applying the brakes.
c. Disconnect the drive shaft from the differential side gear shaft.
NOTICE: Be careful not to damage the boots and end cover.
d. Support the drive shaft securely.
e. Employ the same manner described to the other side.
9. REMOVE REAR DIFFERENTIAL CARRIER ASSEMBLY
a. Support the rear differential carrier assembly with a jack.
b. Using a hexagon wrench (12 mm), remove the 3 hexagon bolts.
c. Remove the 2 bolts, lower mount stoppers and rear differential carrier assembly from the rear suspension member.
NOTICE: Do not let the rear differential carrier assembly interfere with the drive shaft.
d. Remove the 2 upper mount stoppers from the rear differential carrier.
INSTALLATION
1. INSTALL REAR DIFFERENTIAL CARRIER ASSEMBLY
a. Install the 2 upper mount stoppers on the rear differential carrier assembly.
HINT: Use the upper mount stopper that was removed.
b. Support the rear differential carrier assembly with a jack and temporarily install the lower mount stoppers and 2 new front side set bolts.
NOTICE: Do not let the rear differential carrier assembly interfere with the drive shaft.
c. Using a 12 mm hexagon wrench, install the 3 rear side set hexagon bolts. Torque: 142 Nm (1,450 kgf-cm, 105 ft. lbs.)
d. Torque the 2 front side set bolts. Torque: 95 Nm (970 kgf-cm, 70 ft. lbs.)
e. Lower the jack.
2. CONNECT RH AND LH DRIVE SHAFTS TO SIDE GEAR SHAFTS
a. Align the matchmarks, and connect the drive shaft to the side gear shaft.
NOTICE: Be careful not to damage the boots and end cover.
b. Using an 8 mm hexagon wrench, install the 3 washers and 6 hexagon bolts, while applying the brakes. Torque: 68 Nm (695 kgf-cm, 50 ft. lbs.)
c. Employ the same manner described to the other side.
3. INSTALL RH AND LH REAR SUSPENSION MEMBER BRACES Torque: 50 Nm (510 kgf-cm, 37 ft. lbs.)
4. INSTALL PROPELLER SHAFT
5. INSTALL EXHAUST PIPE ASSEMBLY
6. CONNECT STABILIZER BAR LINK TO STABILIZER BAR Torque: 44 Nm (449 kgf-cm, 33 ft. lbs.)
HINT: If the ball joint turns together with the nut, use a hexagon wrench (5 mm) to hold the stud.
7. CONNECT 2 STABILIZER BAR BRACKETS TO REAR SUSPENSION MEMBER Torque: 18 Nm (185 kgf-cm, 13 ft. lbs.)
8. FILL AND CHECK DIFFERENTIAL OIL LEVEL
9. INSTALL NO. 1 REAR FLOOR BOARD
Basic stock looking manual, but in my sportcross.
These are for you lo21, not sure of what you wanted a picture, but here is the in and outs of it.
If i were to do it all again, I would probably do a supra flywheel/ clutch disk setup, mainly because the IS300 Flywheel is incredibly heavy at 31Lbs.
Update 11/08/12 this is probably going to be my last update mainly because there was only one real missing piece to the puzzle. Some questioned the legality of changing the transmission and being able to pass smog here in California with there strict laws. Well my registration renewal was finally due with a updated smog check. took it in and passed without a problem. It even notes that it is a manual transmission on the print out.
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The Blue Devil (yes, like Duke)
