What is this part and is what's making my noise? - Page 2 - Lexus IS Forum
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post #16 of 46 (permalink) Old 03-07-2017, 06:54 PM
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Personally i have never had a vibration or hum during braking ever come from anything other than rotors, pads or wheel bearings, i struggle to see how ball joints or tie rods would cause that unless they are soo knackered that they are on the verge of falling apart. 95% of the time i have skimmed the rotor and all noise or vibration when braking has gone away, only once has it ever been pad related and it surprised me until i saw how the pad had worn.

And don't always assume new rotors will arrive machined true, i have had them arrive out of true despite the fresh machine marks and QA stamps. If you have a DTI you could try clocking it to see for sure.

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post #17 of 46 (permalink) Old 03-08-2017, 07:17 AM Thread Starter
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Personally i have never had a vibration or hum during braking ever come from anything other than rotors, pads or wheel bearings, i struggle to see how ball joints or tie rods would cause that unless they are soo knackered that they are on the verge of falling apart. 95% of the time i have skimmed the rotor and all noise or vibration when braking has gone away, only once has it ever been pad related and it surprised me until i saw how the pad had worn.

And don't always assume new rotors will arrive machined true, i have had them arrive out of true despite the fresh machine marks and QA stamps. If you have a DTI you could try clocking it to see for sure.
Thanks. I got with Summit Racing where I bought the kit. I just have to order new ones and swap them out and theyll refund me. So we'll see if that works.

They are slotted and drilled. From what I understand, you cant machine those...?
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post #18 of 46 (permalink) Old 03-08-2017, 07:26 AM
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Did you have the rotors trued before installing them? Even new rotors should be cut before installing. I have had many new rotors come warped. I think the factory cuts them before they are completely cooled, but thats just my speculation.

What I would suggest is remove the rotors and have them trued by a uto parts shop with a lathe and see how it drives. Its usually $12 per rotor. Hang on to the other parts for a little while. If the shake comes back start replacing the other parts. Worn ball jts and tie rods paired with unevenly worn tires will bring back the shake.

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post #19 of 46 (permalink) Old 03-08-2017, 07:35 AM
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And dont forget to bed the brake pads properly. One of the biggest rookie mistakes is to just swap parts and drive on. If you are unfamiliar with bedding brake pads, google it

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post #20 of 46 (permalink) Old 03-08-2017, 09:04 AM Thread Starter
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Did you have the rotors trued before installing them? Even new rotors should be cut before installing. I have had many new rotors come warped. I think the factory cuts them before they are completely cooled, but thats just my speculation.

What I would suggest is remove the rotors and have them trued by a uto parts shop with a lathe and see how it drives. Its usually $12 per rotor. Hang on to the other parts for a little while. If the shake comes back start replacing the other parts. Worn ball jts and tie rods paired with unevenly worn tires will bring back the shake.

Thanks! As mentioned in previous posts, I'm not anything of a "car guy" or "mechanic" so I didnt even know about having rotors "trued"

Im learning now as I go and Im trying to "refurbish" my IS300 to keep it going until I truly need a new car.

The mechanic checked the ball joints and tie rods and cleared them. Tires a brand new. Alignment done. Balancing done.

Im going to get the new ones in, have them "trued" as you said and then install. See what happens there.

Summit Racing was easy about getting them swapped on warranty. All they asked were if the mechanic inspected them and if they were properly "broken" in. Both of which were true.
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post #21 of 46 (permalink) Old 03-08-2017, 09:07 AM Thread Starter
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And dont forget to bed the brake pads properly. One of the biggest rookie mistakes is to just swap parts and drive on. If you are unfamiliar with bedding brake pads, google it
I did. Instructions came with brakes.


One thing though, Summit Racing only wants to swap out the front rotors as thats where the problem seems to be...

Is this wise? Would I swap out the whole 4 rotor/pads kit?

If I do the bed in process again, wouldnt that affect the rear rotors?
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post #22 of 46 (permalink) Old 03-09-2017, 11:16 AM Thread Starter
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BUMP

Any suggestions or advice?
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post #23 of 46 (permalink) Old 03-09-2017, 04:39 PM
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Depends on where the vibration is, sometimes its hard to tell. 9/10 times it is the front rotors in my experience, they warp more as they are the ones subjected to the most abuse and heat. How hard are you pressing on the peddle before feeling the vibration? Usually if it is rears they come on when you are hard on the peddle (the rears only do like 10% of the total braking so will be hardly touching under light braking) and you will feel the back tending to jump around if there is nothing in the back. I would probably try the fronts first, then the rears if needed. Either way they are easy on swapping out under warranty so shouldn't be an issue if you have to do that later on.

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post #24 of 46 (permalink) Old 03-18-2017, 02:13 PM
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Did you find your clunk? It could be the obvious. The pad clips may be missing or loose and you are hearing the pad plates shifting in the brackets when you change directions.

On my IS00, I started getting a slight shake while braking hard last week. When I got to work after an hour's drive, I touched the front rotors to see if they had the same heat. The drivers side was cool (normal) and the passengers side is hot. Its cold outside which leads me to think the passenger caliper has seized. Sure enough, as I left work, I could hear the FR brakes scrubbing/grinding. So I will be replacing the calipers this weekend. I put rebuilts on 8 years and 100,000 miles ago. So I guess I got my monies worth.

New Brakes are complete

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post #25 of 46 (permalink) Old 03-18-2017, 09:25 PM
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Originally Posted by IM QUIKR View Post
Did you find your clunk? It could be the obvious. The pad clips may be missing or loose and you are hearing the pad plates shifting in the brackets when you change directions.

On my IS00, I started getting a slight shake while braking hard last week. When I got to work after an hours drive, I touched the front rotors to see if they had the same heat. The drivers side was cool (normal) and the passengers side is hot. Its cold outside which leads me to think the passenger caliper has seized. Sure enough, as I left work, I could hear the FR brakes scrubbing/grinding. So I will be replacing the calipers this weekend. I put rebuilts on 8 years and 100,000 miles ago. So I guess I got my monies worth.
Pins are stuck.
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post #26 of 46 (permalink) Old 03-19-2017, 07:26 AM
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Pins are stuck.
Normally I would agree but not this time. The pins were well lubed and moving. The pistons were badly rusted. I actually had to hammer the caliper/bracket setup off the rotors with a dead blow hammer. They were toast.


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post #27 of 46 (permalink) Old 03-20-2017, 11:33 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by IM QUIKR View Post
Did you find your clunk? It could be the obvious. The pad clips may be missing or loose and you are hearing the pad plates shifting in the brackets when you change directions.

On my IS00, I started getting a slight shake while braking hard last week. When I got to work after an hour's drive, I touched the front rotors to see if they had the same heat. The drivers side was cool (normal) and the passengers side is hot. Its cold outside which leads me to think the passenger caliper has seized. Sure enough, as I left work, I could hear the FR brakes scrubbing/grinding. So I will be replacing the calipers this weekend. I put rebuilts on 8 years and 100,000 miles ago. So I guess I got my monies worth.

New Brakes are complete
Yes...the clunk were indeed the lower control arms #2 . Basically any time I parked and then would drive out in the afternoon, when I turned the wheel, it would "clunk" and when I turned the wheel back, it would "clunk" again. If the change, all is good with that.

NOW though, I have more "clunks" when the suspension is being put to the test. Lets say a very uneven/bumpy road, I hear the worst clunks and what not. If I go over a speed bump and immediately stop, I hear a clunk. Without fail. I can back it up, go over it again and brake, clunk! I thought maybe I put my LCA#2 on wrong, but they dont seem loose at all. I torqued them to spec. I dont know. Maybe those are strong now but are showing the weakness in other parts? I ordered Inner/Outer Tie Rods, Lower Ball Joints and I'm going to order Upper Control arms too. Possibly new front shocks.

Any ideas on what else it could be?

As for the brakes, Ill do the test you said. Maybe mine have the same issue. Im just waiting for the right date to return the new rotors and get the replacements to eliminate the whole "warped rotor" theory.
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post #28 of 46 (permalink) Old 03-20-2017, 05:51 PM
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Roll bar end links?

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post #29 of 46 (permalink) Old 03-21-2017, 09:23 AM Thread Starter
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Roll bar end links?
Ah yes, I thought about those too. I guess I could order those and have them installed as well. Basically doing the entire front suspension now lol
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post #30 of 46 (permalink) Old 03-21-2017, 10:25 AM
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My bet would be the lower balljoints or the endlinks on the antiroll bar that's still making noise. Good thing you already ordered lower balljoints, that's a part that goes bad on these cars with age and is pretty dangerous if one of them break while you're driving.

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