Rubber to Rubber Crunching Sound From Front Suspension - Lexus IS Forum
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-03-2005, 02:50 PM Thread Starter
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Rubber to Rubber Crunching Sound From Front Suspension

My bodyshop has had the IS a day now trying to figure out what the hell could be causing this sound! I'm sure some of you guys from .net can help us out.

My suspension setup is:

- Tein S-Tech springs
- KYB GR-2 struts
- Stillen F/R sway bars

And when driving over smooth surfaces its quiet. When going up a curb, when going over a speed bump, when going over uneven pavement, etc. Especially at slower speeds, I get a crunching rubber against rubber sound from the front suspension. Its not a metal to metal knocking sound like we previously thought.

They think its the rubber boot at the top and bottom of the spring, or just the shocks compressing. I told them to put them OEM struts back on and see if that solves the problem.

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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-03-2005, 02:57 PM
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ouch..sounds suckee..

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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-03-2005, 03:07 PM
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Maybe its the type of flooring you are driving thru? I know I hear like some kind of rubber crushing sound when Im driving in the parking lot of my work, but its because of the type of floor they have...its very smooth.....dunno if thats the kind of noise you are referring to?
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-03-2005, 03:12 PM Thread Starter
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I'm not sure what you're talking about bro, the type of floor? The noise happens on every single speed bump, on every curb I go up into a gas station, over every sewer drain that I run over, etc. Especially at slow speeds, more than higher speeds.

Also, when I accelerate from an incline, I get the crunching noise in the front. When I accelerate downhill or on a flat surface, nothing really. But accelerating up a hill or incline at all gives me that same weird crunching sound.

GGP 5-Speed Manual (LSD)

CDD Removed | B&M Short Shifter | Stillen Front & Rear Sway Bars
Tein S-Tech | KYB GR-2 | C-West Eyelids | Type-R Lip | JDM Leather Shift Knob
Slotted Rotors | Stainless Steel Brake Lines | 8000K HID Bulbs
Custom Painted Tails | Cleared Turn Signals | Custom Altezza Grill
18" ICW Racing 073 | Shaved Front & Rear Sidemarkers
ACT Heavy Duty Clutch w/ Street Disc | HKS Drager II Exhaust
Alpine CDA-9855 | Alpine V12 600W | (2) Alpine Type-R 10" Subs
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-03-2005, 04:54 PM Thread Starter
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Anyone have any idea?

GGP 5-Speed Manual (LSD)

CDD Removed | B&M Short Shifter | Stillen Front & Rear Sway Bars
Tein S-Tech | KYB GR-2 | C-West Eyelids | Type-R Lip | JDM Leather Shift Knob
Slotted Rotors | Stainless Steel Brake Lines | 8000K HID Bulbs
Custom Painted Tails | Cleared Turn Signals | Custom Altezza Grill
18" ICW Racing 073 | Shaved Front & Rear Sidemarkers
ACT Heavy Duty Clutch w/ Street Disc | HKS Drager II Exhaust
Alpine CDA-9855 | Alpine V12 600W | (2) Alpine Type-R 10" Subs
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-03-2005, 04:56 PM
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Lol.........wrong noise then! have you tried Lubing up the chassis joints, etc?
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-03-2005, 04:58 PM
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My first thought is sway bar bushings. usually sway bars make noise when going over speed bumps and dips, like the end of a driveway.Hotchkis sway bar bushings have a grease zirk for this very reason.I would remove and lube the bushings where they clamp around the bar as my first thing to check.

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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-03-2005, 05:13 PM Thread Starter
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The shop swears up and down that the sway bars are greased and all that perfectly, who knows. I really hope they figure it out because I refuse to drive a noisy car.

GGP 5-Speed Manual (LSD)

CDD Removed | B&M Short Shifter | Stillen Front & Rear Sway Bars
Tein S-Tech | KYB GR-2 | C-West Eyelids | Type-R Lip | JDM Leather Shift Knob
Slotted Rotors | Stainless Steel Brake Lines | 8000K HID Bulbs
Custom Painted Tails | Cleared Turn Signals | Custom Altezza Grill
18" ICW Racing 073 | Shaved Front & Rear Sidemarkers
ACT Heavy Duty Clutch w/ Street Disc | HKS Drager II Exhaust
Alpine CDA-9855 | Alpine V12 600W | (2) Alpine Type-R 10" Subs
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-03-2005, 06:49 PM
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Does it sound more like creeking noises in front? If so, I have it and I am puzzled also.

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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-03-2005, 06:53 PM Thread Starter
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Yeah maybe creeking? But honestly it sounds like rubber against rubber rubbing together. I'm thinking maybe something isn't greased right? Although the shop said they greased everything over and over again.

So something isn't making sense.

GGP 5-Speed Manual (LSD)

CDD Removed | B&M Short Shifter | Stillen Front & Rear Sway Bars
Tein S-Tech | KYB GR-2 | C-West Eyelids | Type-R Lip | JDM Leather Shift Knob
Slotted Rotors | Stainless Steel Brake Lines | 8000K HID Bulbs
Custom Painted Tails | Cleared Turn Signals | Custom Altezza Grill
18" ICW Racing 073 | Shaved Front & Rear Sidemarkers
ACT Heavy Duty Clutch w/ Street Disc | HKS Drager II Exhaust
Alpine CDA-9855 | Alpine V12 600W | (2) Alpine Type-R 10" Subs
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post #11 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-03-2005, 08:46 PM
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I would def. say the swaybar in some way. Most of the time the endlink needs replaced. Mine did and several other members did also. Aftermarket sways wear out the stock endlinks very fast. Mine did in 3 months of spirited driving. I would check that. You can get aftermarket stock ones for like $25.

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post #12 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-03-2005, 10:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MonStar1120
The shop swears up and down that the sway bars are greased and all that perfectly, who knows. I really hope they figure it out because I refuse to drive a noisy car.

I understand the Stillen swaybar instructions tell you to torque the subframe brackets to something like 23 ft-lbs.....that's too much. It should be 13 ft-lbs.....i'll bet that this is your problem.

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