Rear main seal project questions? - Lexus IS Forum
User Tag List

 3Likes
  • 1 Post By reklipz
  • 2 Post By IS3_FTW
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-07-2016, 08:06 PM Thread Starter
SEAHAWKS!!
 
IS3_FTW's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Parkland, WA
Posts: 10,773
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 541 Post(s)
           
Rear main seal project questions?

I am planning to get my rear main seal and front pump seal done on my 01 IS300.

What parts would I need and if possible, part number would help. I have googled and found some parts, but I want to make sure I am ordering the correct parts

FYI, I will be going OEM for this stuff. Price is no object is what I am saying

Thank in Advance

Phil
2001 IS300
Engine 2jz-ge w/SRT intake; HP header; Toyomoto ypipe
ICE/Interior Kenwood Excelon w/Nav; Fsport shift knob
Exterior JDM headlights; foglights; taillights; SportDesign grille; RX shorty antenna
Suspension Tanabe coilovers; SuperPro bushings; FIGs toe links
Wheels Volk Racing wheels; Staggered 17x8/9; Conti DWS

Last edited by IS3_FTW; 10-10-2016 at 10:29 PM.
IS3_FTW is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-10-2016, 10:28 PM Thread Starter
SEAHAWKS!!
 
IS3_FTW's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Parkland, WA
Posts: 10,773
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 541 Post(s)
           
Bump Bump

Phil
2001 IS300
Engine 2jz-ge w/SRT intake; HP header; Toyomoto ypipe
ICE/Interior Kenwood Excelon w/Nav; Fsport shift knob
Exterior JDM headlights; foglights; taillights; SportDesign grille; RX shorty antenna
Suspension Tanabe coilovers; SuperPro bushings; FIGs toe links
Wheels Volk Racing wheels; Staggered 17x8/9; Conti DWS
IS3_FTW is offline  
post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-11-2016, 12:18 AM
Newbie
 
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 34
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
 
90311-38029
Seal, Oil (For Front Oil Pump)

90311-38070
Seal, Oil (For Rear Differential Carrier)

90311-43001
Seal, Oil (For Rear Differential Side Gear Shaft)

Not sure if that's what you're looking for.

All found here: 2001 Lexus IS300 Parts - LexusPartsNow.com

First seal can be found under: Powertrain/Chassis > Torque Converter, Front Oil Pump & Chain (ATM)

Second and third seals can be found under: Powertrain/Chassis > Rear Axle Housing & Differential

You will need multiples of some of those seals, the site will tell you how many you need in the description of each one.
TrippF is offline  
 
post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-11-2016, 04:41 AM
Extremist
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 4,310
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 493 Post(s)
           
I'd do the timing belt too while you have the front off the engine. You have to take the timing belt off already to even get at the front main seal.

Do you have the engine out? Wondering how you plan on getting at the rear main seal.
Ek9B18 is online now  
post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-11-2016, 06:40 AM
Fiend
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Marietta
Posts: 407
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 75 Post(s)
           
The rear crankshaft seal is 90311-90006
01 SolarYellow is offline  
post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-11-2016, 11:55 AM
Follower
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 672
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 70 Post(s)
           
DriftMotion has these parts in stock, too:

1JZ/2JZ Rear Main Seal, Factory Toyota
1JZ/2JZ Oil Pump O-Ring Set

1JZ/2JZ Front Main Seal

JZ Oil Pan O-Ring

You're going to have to drop the transmission too in order to get at this, right?
reklipz is offline  
post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-12-2016, 06:40 PM
Enthusiast
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Bay Area, California
Posts: 1,262
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 40 Post(s)
           
Garage
since you in there, might as well do cam seal and the vvti seal kit from drift motion.

02 GGP 234k on chassis
BD11A supercharger/dezod headers/greddy catback/bc264/hks cam gear. 285whp 260tq@6000rpm
az989 is offline  
post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-12-2016, 08:03 PM Thread Starter
SEAHAWKS!!
 
IS3_FTW's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Parkland, WA
Posts: 10,773
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 541 Post(s)
           
Quote:
Originally Posted by TrippF View Post
90311-38029
Seal, Oil (For Front Oil Pump)

90311-38070
Seal, Oil (For Rear Differential Carrier)

90311-43001
Seal, Oil (For Rear Differential Side Gear Shaft)

Not sure if that's what you're looking for.

All found here: 2001 Lexus IS300 Parts - LexusPartsNow.com

First seal can be found under: Powertrain/Chassis > Torque Converter, Front Oil Pump & Chain (ATM)

Second and third seals can be found under: Powertrain/Chassis > Rear Axle Housing & Differential


You will need multiples of some of those seals, the site will tell you how many you need in the description of each one.
I dont know what I am looking at without some knowledge. The rear of the engine/trans is a whole new world for me. I didnt even know where the front pump seal was located

When I google, it doesnt really help me all that much. Wish someone had done this before and taken pics of the process. Do you know where to find torque specs on the bolts for the torque converter, flexplate, trans housing to engine, etc?

Do I need to replace the rear diff seals? Im not completely taking off the driveshaft, other than the front where it attaches to the trans



Quote:
Originally Posted by Ek9B18 View Post
I'd do the timing belt too while you have the front off the engine. You have to take the timing belt off already to even get at the front main seal.

Do you have the engine out? Wondering how you plan on getting at the rear main seal.
Dropping the trans and working on jack stands

Quote:
Originally Posted by 01 SolarYellow View Post
The rear crankshaft seal is 90311-90006
why rear crankshaft seal?

Quote:
Originally Posted by reklipz View Post
DriftMotion has these parts in stock, too:

1JZ/2JZ Rear Main Seal, Factory Toyota
1JZ/2JZ Oil Pump O-Ring Set

1JZ/2JZ Front Main Seal

JZ Oil Pan O-Ring

You're going to have to drop the transmission too in order to get at this, right?
Yessir

Front pump seal. Not going to touch the front of the engine. Had the timing belt stuff done less than a year ago.

Quote:
Originally Posted by az989 View Post
since you in there, might as well do cam seal and the vvti seal kit from drift motion.
Wont be touching the front of the engine

Phil
2001 IS300
Engine 2jz-ge w/SRT intake; HP header; Toyomoto ypipe
ICE/Interior Kenwood Excelon w/Nav; Fsport shift knob
Exterior JDM headlights; foglights; taillights; SportDesign grille; RX shorty antenna
Suspension Tanabe coilovers; SuperPro bushings; FIGs toe links
Wheels Volk Racing wheels; Staggered 17x8/9; Conti DWS
IS3_FTW is offline  
post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-12-2016, 09:14 PM
Follower
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 672
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 70 Post(s)
           
Quote:
Originally Posted by IS3_FTW View Post
I dont know what I am looking at without some knowledge. The rear of the engine/trans is a whole new world for me. I didnt even know where the front pump seal was located

When I google, it doesnt really help me all that much. Wish someone had done this before and taken pics of the process. Do you know where to find torque specs on the bolts for the torque converter, flexplate, trans housing to engine, etc?
The service manual has all of that information. It's available on this very site; it shows part diagrams (exploded breakdowns) denoting torque values and "single-use" components and what not. The (torque, and various other) information is also available in tables that summarize the relevant specs from various "systems".

Rear main seal project questions?-em-78.jpg Rear main seal project questions?-em-79.jpg Rear main seal project questions?-em-80.jpg

Quote:
Originally Posted by IS3_FTW View Post
Do I need to replace the rear diff seals? Im not completely taking off the driveshaft, other than the front where it attaches to the trans
Not unless it's in need of replacing, or due for some sort of interval/preventative change. What your doing shouldn't harm that at all, though it may wind up being easier to just remove it out of the way (I'm not sure!).

Quote:
Originally Posted by IS3_FTW View Post
Dropping the trans and working on jack stands
Don't fret; get it securely supported (quality jack-stands, safe and secure location under vehicle, four corners) and as high off the ground as you're comfortable with and you'll be fine. Just be smart and take your time if you get frustrated, .

Quote:
Originally Posted by IS3_FTW View Post
why rear crankshaft seal?
rear crankshaft seal == rear main seal

The front pump seal is in the front of the engine, as the diagram shows. It's the front crankshaft seal.

Take note of the first step in the procedure: mount the engine to an engine stand. That's how invasive what you're looking to do really is. That's not to say it can't be done on the ground with the engine on jack-stands, just that you ought to make sure you're aware just how shitty this creek you're about to wade through could become if you aren't careful.

Curious, how do you have >10k posts?
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	EM-79.jpg
Views:	133
Size:	59.0 KB
ID:	102962   Click image for larger version

Name:	EM-78.jpg
Views:	160
Size:	65.1 KB
ID:	102970   Click image for larger version

Name:	EM-80.jpg
Views:	141
Size:	85.3 KB
ID:	102978  
IS3_FTW likes this.

Last edited by reklipz; 10-12-2016 at 09:35 PM.
reklipz is offline  
post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-12-2016, 11:32 PM
Enthusiast
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Posts: 1,238
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 148 Post(s)
           
Manual transmission? You will have to take off flywheel/clutch off anyway, so it's a good time to do mods to your clutch if manual. Would also recommend new bolts for flexplate or flywheel whatever the case.

The seal itself can be a giant pain once you do make it to that point. If it goes in a little bit crooked, and you straighten it out, chances are you will have damaged the lip on it and will need a new seal. I ended up building a tool to press it in after messing up some seals in the past.
whatthe is offline  
post #11 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-13-2016, 12:11 AM Thread Starter
SEAHAWKS!!
 
IS3_FTW's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Parkland, WA
Posts: 10,773
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 541 Post(s)
           
Quote:
Originally Posted by reklipz View Post
The front pump seal is in the front of the engine, as the diagram shows. It's the front crankshaft seal.
Front pump seal is the seal between the torque converter and trans. Its like a crank seal, but for the transmission shaft

Quote:
Originally Posted by reklipz View Post
Curious, how do you have >10k posts?
This place was really active from 2007-2012

Quote:
Originally Posted by whatthe View Post
Manual transmission? You will have to take off flywheel/clutch off anyway, so it's a good time to do mods to your clutch if manual. Would also recommend new bolts for flexplate or flywheel whatever the case.

The seal itself can be a giant pain once you do make it to that point. If it goes in a little bit crooked, and you straighten it out, chances are you will have damaged the lip on it and will need a new seal. I ended up building a tool to press it in after messing up some seals in the past.
Autotragic

Im going to add some oil or grease to the rubber part of the seal, so it doesnt rip.

I have heard horror stories of damaged seals. I will likely buy 2, since its only $10 each

Phil
2001 IS300
Engine 2jz-ge w/SRT intake; HP header; Toyomoto ypipe
ICE/Interior Kenwood Excelon w/Nav; Fsport shift knob
Exterior JDM headlights; foglights; taillights; SportDesign grille; RX shorty antenna
Suspension Tanabe coilovers; SuperPro bushings; FIGs toe links
Wheels Volk Racing wheels; Staggered 17x8/9; Conti DWS
IS3_FTW is offline  
post #12 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-13-2016, 12:55 AM
Enthusiast
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Posts: 1,238
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 148 Post(s)
           
Quote:
Originally Posted by IS3_FTW View Post


Autotragic

Im going to add some oil or grease to the rubber part of the seal, so it doesnt rip.

I have heard horror stories of damaged seals. I will likely buy 2, since its only $10 each
Ah fair enough on the auto. I lubed mine with oil and tried some other various super-lubes I had and still damaged a couple seals. One I thought went well until oil started leaking on my floor a week later. The dust lip on the outside always looks 100% fine, but there is a really fine edge on what is the sealing edge on the inside that tears suuuper easy if it goes in a tiny bit out of alignment.

It may have been partly this particular 2J in my car, or even just all newer seals... but when I was installing it on my car, the seal went slightly out of alignment at the start of pushing it in, tapped more on the other side to level it out, and even though it was not in all the way, the seal edge was damaged already at that point.
whatthe is offline  
post #13 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-13-2016, 06:46 PM
Follower
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 672
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 70 Post(s)
           
Quote:
Originally Posted by IS3_FTW View Post
Front pump seal is the seal between the torque converter and trans. Its like a crank seal, but for the transmission shaft
Ah, okay; I admit I've focused on the manual-trans IS 300 applications, but the service manual calls out both (and even Sedan vs Wagon), so I figured I'd notice it. I assume then, e.g. that it (this "front pump seal" for the transmission) is only applicable to the auto-trans IS 300 application. Is there a separate "pump" in that application (for e.g. the torque/trans fluid/lube), that is different than the engine oil pump (which is on the front of the engine, and has its own set of seals)?

--

It's not in the diagrams I shared above (about servicing the rear main seal), and when I look at the diagrams in the "Automatic Transmission" section of the manual, nothing jumps out at me there either.

It seems to me that you mean to refer to what I'd call the "transmission input shaft seal;" not the "[engine] front pump seal."

--

Also, the service manual calls out two procedures for changing the engine front and rear crankshaft/main seals; one where the oil pump/seal retainer is removed from the cylinder block, and one where they're still attached. The differences are 1) how you remove the old seal ("press out" as a whole vs "cut and pry" as pieces; respectively) and 2) how you install it (grease seal lip after install vs grease seal lip before; again, respectively).
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	AT-30.jpg
Views:	105
Size:	48.5 KB
ID:	103026   Click image for larger version

Name:	EM-64.jpg
Views:	96
Size:	68.7 KB
ID:	103034  

Last edited by reklipz; 10-13-2016 at 07:04 PM.
reklipz is offline  
post #14 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-13-2016, 09:49 PM Thread Starter
SEAHAWKS!!
 
IS3_FTW's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Parkland, WA
Posts: 10,773
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 541 Post(s)
           
Quote:
Originally Posted by reklipz View Post
Ah, okay; I admit I've focused on the manual-trans IS 300 applications, but the service manual calls out both (and even Sedan vs Wagon), so I figured I'd notice it. I assume then, e.g. that it (this "front pump seal" for the transmission) is only applicable to the auto-trans IS 300 application. Is there a separate "pump" in that application (for e.g. the torque/trans fluid/lube), that is different than the engine oil pump (which is on the front of the engine, and has its own set of seals)?
First of all, I would like to thank you for the torque specs on the flex plate to block and flex plate to torque converter

Im not sure how I am going to take out the front pump seal, but its gonna need to be done. Im hoping its only the seal and not the whole assembly

This link shows the name of the oil pump seal for the trans with the pic below in 35301A.

Courtesy of mm7 (aka L-tuned Mike) for the bottom pic of his

SEAL, OIL (FOR FRONT OIL PUMP COVER); SEAL, OIL (FOR FRONT OIL PUMP) for 2001 LEXUS IS300. #9031138020



mm71522 and reklipz like this.

Phil
2001 IS300
Engine 2jz-ge w/SRT intake; HP header; Toyomoto ypipe
ICE/Interior Kenwood Excelon w/Nav; Fsport shift knob
Exterior JDM headlights; foglights; taillights; SportDesign grille; RX shorty antenna
Suspension Tanabe coilovers; SuperPro bushings; FIGs toe links
Wheels Volk Racing wheels; Staggered 17x8/9; Conti DWS
IS3_FTW is offline  
post #15 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-19-2017, 01:18 AM
Follower
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 672
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 70 Post(s)
           
Bump. Did you get this done, then?
reklipz is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

  Lexus IS Forum > 1st-Gen IS300 > General Discussion

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Lexus IS Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself. If your address is invalid, you will likely lose access to the site.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in









Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Current users viewing this Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome