Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Denver, CO
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This is a DIY Guide to Installing the Timing Belt, Water Pump and Serpentine Belt. I've collected all this information from previous posts and put it together in an easy to view format.
Many thanks to BRIAN TII (Pictures and Instructions), sfjason (Additional Pointers), black86 (O-Ring Guide), and mborner (Part Numbers)
- 5-6 HRS
- 10mm Socket Wrench
- Breaker Bar
- Chain Wrench
- Modified 10mm Wrench
- Timing Belt: Part No. 13568-49036
- Tentioner: Part No. 13540-46030
- Idler: Part No. 13505-46041
- Drive Belt: Part No. 99366-D1930
- Water Pump: Part No. 16100-49876-83
- T/Stat: Part No. 90916-03093
- T/Stat Gasket: Part No. 16325-62010
- PCV 5/2000-5/2001: Part No. 12204-46030
- PCV 5/2001 and up: Part No. 12204-46031
- PCV Grommet: Part No. 90480-18001
- O-Rings Bypass Pipe: Part No. 96761-24022 (Qty=2)
- O-Ring Bypass Outlet: Part No. 96761-24028
1.) Remove Airbox
2.) Remove Cam Gear Cover
3.) Remove Underbody Cover
4.) Drain Coolant
5.) Disconnect Radiator Hoses and Radiator Brackets
6.) Disconnect Electrical Connectors
7.) Disconnect Tranny Fluid Lines from Radiator
8.) Remove Radiator
9.) Remove Drive Belt
10.) Remove Timing Belt Cover(s)
11.) Use Chain Wrench to hold crank pulley while using 6 foot breaker bar to remove Main Crank Pulley.
12.) Cut up old drive belt to keep the chain wrench from tearing up the pulley... they aren't cheap.
13.) Breaker bar used to loosen main crank pulley bolt.
14.) Picture of a "modified" 10mm wrench created for the Integra valve jobs.
15.) Picture with all timing belt covers off. Make sure you mark the belt, the pulley positions, etc... I especially found that marking the belt was very handy so that I knew how many teeth were between each pulley both before and after. (Fortunately they where the same :-) )
16.) T-belt removed, don't turn any pulleys.
17.) O-Ring Setup
18.) Water pump removed.
19.) This is what it should look like after putting on a new pump, belt, etc... Notice I haven't pulled the pin out of the tensioner yet.
1. The crank bolt is hard to get off, but all you need is a 22mm deep socket and a big cheater bar if you have a manual transmission. Just put it in 5th gear, pull the emergency brake, and pull really hard. One tip is to wrap a pillow in a garbage bag and put it where your cheater bar might hit the fender in case you aren’t able to stop pulling in time.
2. The timing belt tensioner can be compressed with a bench vise, but make sure you put the pin and rubber seal on the right way. I had it backwards the first time which isn’t apparent until you try to put it back in the car.
3. I marked the old timing belt so I knew how many teeth were between the camshaft gears and the crankshaft gear. That helped me put the new one on correctly the first time. (The second time I wasn’t so lucky… see number nine below.)
4. A standard harmonic balancer puller works great to pull the crankshaft pulley. Just make sure you have metric bolts.
5. The PCV valve in my car is threaded on. The replacement one I bought has a grommet instead. Make sure you get the right one for your car.
6. You don’t need to pull the power steering pump like it says in the service manual. You just need to remove the power steering pump bracket out of the way so you can access one of the timing belt cover bolts.
7. I bought the Toyota Extra Long Life coolant. It was friggin’ $23 compared to the Prestone universal kind at $12. I didn’t think it was going to be that much more but oh well… I guess it’s not a big deal if you just change it once every 100,000 miles. (Tip: the parts guys said the “super” long life coolant is the same as the long life, just pre-mixed with water so you don’t have to dilute it yourself.)
8. Make sure you engage the number 2 water bypass pipe when you install the water pump. I missed it the first time and didn’t realize it until I was almost done buttoning it up and realized I had 2 extra nuts that didn’t have a home. Doh! That really sucked as I had to tear everything apart to fix the problem.
9. Make sure your timing belt position stays true after you release the tensioner. (I would release the tensioner before you put anything back on and count the teeth between pulleys again.) I had thought everything was fine until I put the crank pulley back on and found out that I was off by a tooth. Doh! Had to take a few steps back (again) as a result.
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