Pro EFI 128, Custom sequential, VVTi GTE IS underway - Page 5 - Lexus IS Forum
User Tag List

 47Likes
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #61 of 156 (permalink) Old 11-01-2015, 05:06 PM Thread Starter
Enthusiast
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Posts: 1,225
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 144 Post(s)
           
Overall, I'm pretty happy with the results of the body work. Getting rid of the door moulding isn't showing any awkward waves or unevenness. I've seen a few examples where guys got rid of the mouldings and you could really see the body work underneath. The right rear door I found out after I stripped it that it had some body work and took more effort than the other door, but it's looking ok. I'm sure it took me 100 times longer to get there though...



Some more of the wetsanding. still have to do wet sand on roof, and front fenders

When I lent my Makita and polishing pad to a friend, he gave it all he had and crushed and ruined the pad. Tried a few spots and it just adds a few swirls instead of removing them. This pic doesn't show it well, but have to pick up some more compound and another pad and then I can get to making it a lot better.


Only real depressing item is a few spots I caused issues between 1st few layers of clear, wet sanding, clean, and flow coat of clear. Basically looks like I caused it by going to thin when sanding and when I cleaned it, it brought up some base that I didn't see until the color was floating a little higher on the flow coat. You can't see it unless it's in the sun, but I'm sure it will bug me immensely and I'll end up repainting the one door next year (still have 1/2 gallon of base to work with in case I changed my mind on body kit or this kind of issue thankfully). Next time, I wouldn't be as aggressive on sanding prior to my flow coat, and also I would go down a hair on tip size on my clear gun.

Otherwise, just starting to put doors back together, swab clean the interior, and put interior back together. Some clean up on audio side, rear camera, and such to take place
whatthe is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #62 of 156 (permalink) Old 12-05-2015, 02:59 AM Thread Starter
Enthusiast
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Posts: 1,225
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 144 Post(s)
           
Even though I really like the +1 Supra rotors and stock calipers with a good set of pads, and even though I got to use them for probably 500 miles before I parked the car, along came a deal I couldn't turn down on a set of 4 piston Rotora calipers and rotors.

I'm thinking that stopping will 'feel' great with the 4 pistons, but after looking at some calcs, I think it will shift too much brake bias up front without doing more to the rear. I won't be surprised if my overall stopping distance ends up a little longer in normal conditions until I sort out brake bias with the rear. I'm going to try and compare lower friction pads and higher friction pads in the rear at some point to see if I'm correct.

Ultimately though, it came down to what I think will be safest for high horsepower car when the brakes are cold or on an ultra high-speed run. Most of the pad material options, when combined with amount of torque from only having 2 pistons, makes for more of a compromise. Brake torque is either super low when brakes are cold with super low friction at low temps and super good at high temps... or the material that has more streetable friction value at lower temps melts into nothing at higher temps.

Same thing, said another way... having 4 pistons looks like (by the numbers) it would give me the freedom to use higher temp rated material but still have stock like brake torque values up front when pads are cold and low friction.



Left caliper had right rotor in the box, and right caliper and left rotor in the box. took the picture and was like 'wait a second'... thank goodness the calipers clear the rims though.



I'm not a fan of the stock grey around the speedo. Although my wife mocked me for buying 'decals', I think it looks way better. I was hesitant too until I saw either blkdout or blktezza with something similar. The only thing is that I need a new plastic cover for the cluster at some point.

blkdout likes this.
whatthe is offline  
post #63 of 156 (permalink) Old 01-14-2016, 04:57 PM Thread Starter
Enthusiast
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Posts: 1,225
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 144 Post(s)
           
Pic of the first time outside of the garage in 5.5 years. I'll grab some others when I can make it further up the driveway and onto the road. The summers oddly enough turn to rocks and have issues on flat ground with snow.

the sniffer in the pipe is just a spare wideband so I could try and confirm numbers ProEFI was seeing.



Got the base programming for V4 ProEFI loaded in thanks to Alpha. Lots for me to tweak on it yet, but he has been extremely helpful in either answering or putting aside my questions/concerns. Quick vid of the startup... and playing around with how I'm going to setup the exhaust... this is with one side of the dual exhaust open... Tuned the lumpiness out since, but think it would sound wonderfully obnoxious this way.



Line lock installed too, traction control, time to do a base alignment and start working more on tune. Currently have just been focusing on tweaks with the cold starts every day.

waiting for some lights to come in for the cluster and hvac control display... previous owner put in all sorts of weird colors. I just want red red red.
blkdout likes this.
whatthe is offline  
 
post #64 of 156 (permalink) Old 01-18-2016, 03:22 PM Thread Starter
Enthusiast
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Posts: 1,225
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 144 Post(s)
           
Video after fixing idle... You can hear the triple plate in the background (should quiet down a bit with more interior back in as isn't as loud outside).. smooth inline 6 with both muffler boring-ness.




Still have to put sway bar back on, clean up where harness is, etc. before under the hood photos shall emerge




There is a drivers side...



Basic idea of front end now. TTE bumper I like, headlights are going to just go straight black I think. Functional speed holes that I will have to duct properly under the hood... always forget how how the iron block 2J stays until I touch something.



Back end... you can see I have the pipe over to drivers side and muffler off while I play around to decide how I want the car to sound. Still not sure about the black trunk lights other than they match the theme. The LEDs I like way better than stock but actually put in a bit of filler during prep stage to match lights better as they didn't match factory lines so great.



Got stuck twice taking it this far up the driveway... the 1 of incline is killer



If this wasn't here, I'd be on the road tuning it now... notice the squiggly tracks made with the rear tires... the super sports are definitely not meant for snow.

The Nuke likes this.

Last edited by whatthe; 01-18-2016 at 03:28 PM.
whatthe is offline  
post #65 of 156 (permalink) Old 01-19-2016, 06:35 PM
Aficionado
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Roseville CA
Posts: 838
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 27 Post(s)
           
I enjoy your updates. weird you had a problem installing your transmission the way you did, I had no problem installing my triple plate OS Giken complete, then the transmission. That is awesome you fit your proefi under the steering wheel, i did not think there was enough room there. Your door molding delete looks great! I have that on my list when i get around to the body work, yours is good inspiration.

13 J8A FR-S Series 10
02 CW Sportcross rebuild in progress
02 BO Sportcross 2jzgte build in progress
11 SW Tundra DC TRD supercharged

02 MSM L-tuned Sportcross 5 Speed Sold
01 DWP IS300 Sold

Sportcross owners group on facebook

My Story: http://my.is/forums/f219/sportcross-...8/#post7991882


My For Sale: http://my.is/forums/f99/sportcross-s...hifter-438917/
Curran is offline  
post #66 of 156 (permalink) Old 01-20-2016, 09:30 AM Thread Starter
Enthusiast
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Posts: 1,225
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 144 Post(s)
           
Quote:
Originally Posted by Curran View Post
I enjoy your updates. weird you had a problem installing your transmission the way you did, I had no problem installing my triple plate OS Giken complete, then the transmission. That is awesome you fit your proefi under the steering wheel, i did not think there was enough room there. Your door molding delete looks great! I have that on my list when i get around to the body work, yours is good inspiration.
Thanks for the compliments.

Well, if it makes you feel any better, there isn't enough room for the proefi under there until you swing some boxes around. It was a pretty easy fix though and I just had move a couple of items to clear way by the steering column, made a mount for the one side and it was good to go (no need to extend wires). Currently it's back on the floor as I've been adding in some wiring and starting to play around with switches for the anti-lag/launch control/etc.. I'm liking the cruise control stalk setup as a trigger.

Interesting point on being able to slide the AR5 in with the triple plate bolted up. There was absolutely 0 percent chance the V160 was going in this way on mine. I have transmission jack, adjusted every angle possible, lowered the trans a bunch of times and tried to hammer 'strategically' for some clearance, and eventually gave up and did it the way OS giken says you have to. I wonder if the difference is related to the slope where the bellhousing meets the block? I'm not sure what you used for a bellhousing on the AR5 but the 1jz/r154 housing looks like it starts to taper/slope right away compared to the V160. The issue I had with clearance was at the top where it looks like V160 bellhousing comes straight out before it tapers down.

whatthe is offline  
post #67 of 156 (permalink) Old 01-31-2016, 11:57 PM Thread Starter
Enthusiast
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Posts: 1,225
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 144 Post(s)
           
The rattle of the clutch was louder inside the car, then outside it. The lack of carpet wasn't helping anything, but I caved and put in some sound absorption along the transmission tunnel and started putting the carpet back in. The cheap roofing options for sound deadening were tempting, but there was a sale on dynamat locally, so cost wasn't bad. Plus it looks nicer installed, and has zero smell coming off of it.



PIc of it installed along the tunnel, and carpet back in.. Definitely took care of the higher rattle from along the tunnel, and now I can hear it more from the window.



Ye old made in China stainless steel exhaust cut out arrived. And by stainless steel, they mean thin tubing, with aluminum valve portion. Shouldn't be subject to near as much heat at the back compared to the front, so will see how long it holds out.

Basically, while playing around with second mufler on or off, I decided this is my new muffler for the drivers side. I'll have some results of DB differences between single and dual with one side open, one side muffled, in the near future.

blkdout likes this.

Last edited by whatthe; 02-01-2016 at 12:03 AM.
whatthe is offline  
post #68 of 156 (permalink) Old 02-04-2016, 12:41 AM Thread Starter
Enthusiast
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Posts: 1,225
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 144 Post(s)
           
Given that US-CDN exchange rate is now completely terrible (and in support of the environment) decided to reuse the headlights... took them apart and painted them black to match the rest of car better. I baked them at a lower temp than the 250F I see in most FAQs, because polycarbonate max temp is 250-270ish and I've seen some installs go really wrong (plus I've never calibrated my oven. )



the lenses had some pretty big scratches and rock dents... cleaned up most with various grits and the polisher... still more to do, but good enough to just wait for new lights one day. For putting the housing and lens back together I would strongly recommend butyl tape instead of silicone that you often see suggested. Stick it back in oven for a few minutes, push it together and comes out looking cleaner with better seal long term than silicone IMO.




Oh, blew the dust off my Mr Dyno... found the old cd for the software and lo and behold, it actually still worked in Windows 10. The MrDyno was the less popular competition to the Gtech. Still had ability to store numerous runs, datalog back to a computer live values, and ability to set corrections for wind resistance, rolling resistance, suspension, etc.. I had it to within 100th of a second on my Aristo vs. the track and found that it was always quite repeatable over 1/4mile and used it a lot for tuning runs in the past.

Anyway, the point to all of that is that I downloaded some old runs from when the car was stock. Altitude here really kills naturally aspirated cars and traction was bad... but whatever the case, I sure hope it is quicker than it was on this run

whatthe is offline  
post #69 of 156 (permalink) Old 03-01-2016, 12:16 AM Thread Starter
Enthusiast
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Posts: 1,225
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 144 Post(s)
           
Well, I had fears that the dual exhaust would be quiet, especially with smaller turbos, catalytic converters, and muffler… As it has turned out, it is really freaking loud. First measurement, I just about crapped my pants with over 100dB at idle… I noticed it was loud, but didn't think it was quite that loud.



I was able to get this down by lowering rpm, and doing a few other tweaks… then redid with dBA and it was a little more reasonable.



With cutout installed to have one muffler on one side, and other side bypassed, it sounds twice as loud, but surprisingly only a few dB extra. I think the reason it sounds twice is loud is around the harmonics vs. just the peak value.



Other items -
Old school Soundstream amp = 1 point – alternator – 0... fried the rectifier on my stock alternator . Had a spare alternator with a bad bearing, but good rectifier that donated some parts for the time being. Going to have to revise my sub configuration as I had a couple smaller subs on rear deck and the 12” bridged down quite low. The Dayton seems to need a little more juice, even infinite baffle setup, than I was hoping for.



Have to say the ProEFI has been great for the built in sequential tables. This really is the only way to do this is by having control of timing, wastegates , etc. all in the same piece of software. Wish more changes could be done live without the dealer ECU, but is what it is.

Also, the fuel pressure sensor already saved the day. Second fuel pump wasn’t coming on due to pin issue, fuel pressure dropped at high rpm, ProEFI compensated via injectors and even cut power.
whatthe is offline  
post #70 of 156 (permalink) Old 03-01-2016, 06:46 AM
Cherisher
 
blkdout's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Ohio
Posts: 4,557
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 2 Thread(s)
Quoted: 580 Post(s)
           
Man, I need to catch up and go through your thread. Moving along very well!

"There's nothing like waiting and getting exactly what you want."
-Hiral
blkdout is offline  
post #71 of 156 (permalink) Old 03-05-2016, 12:17 AM Thread Starter
Enthusiast
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Posts: 1,225
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 144 Post(s)
           
Quote:
Originally Posted by blkdout View Post
Man, I need to catch up and go through your thread. Moving along very well!
Thanks, have been making both forward and backward progress here. May have to pull the diff... also trying different setups and rpm points on the sequential valves (pain setting up new system as the seq valve changes can't be done live... so it involves creating new program then flashing it, then testing it, then change... 25 rpms at a time in some cases..), had couple wires break at solder joints, couple pins on the premade harness at the ProEFI looked in all the way but still weren't making consistent contact so replaced them, the new TB gasket I had for my IS didnt fit originally and re-used another that resulted in boost leak, my old BOV tests good on bench but on car is inconsistent and bleeds off a tonnn of pressure, etc...

I'll have to go through and backfill some details when it's more officially buttoned up for the season.
whatthe is offline  
post #72 of 156 (permalink) Old 03-09-2016, 12:08 AM Thread Starter
Enthusiast
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Posts: 1,225
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 144 Post(s)
           
I lost a lot of patience with BOVs. I'm not if they make imitation synchronic BOVs, but the one I grabbed off a guy locally caused me all sorts of grief. Apparently inside the BOV itself was a port that helped lift the BOV (later versions have this as a separate nozzle). With a bit of a pressure differential from intake source and the pressure piping, the super quick acting BOV caused me more grief than I would have thought... not so hot for my setup.

I still have bit of leak at throttle body, but boost is building reasonably in the intake manifold now... 17psi fairly quick and levelling off nicely.

whatthe is offline  
post #73 of 156 (permalink) Old 03-10-2016, 11:38 PM Thread Starter
Enthusiast
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Posts: 1,225
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 144 Post(s)
           
Part number of rad cap ended up with on my Koyo after 18psi from 350z. I had some other generic Nissan one based on one of the posts, but turned out to be 13psi.



Fat underbelly... need to clean this up some. Originally was planning both cats beside each other, but the one ended up little closer to frame than I wanted so pushed it further back.



Here's some of the crap balls I was talking about on the BOV. Secret port that connects directly to your pressure piping. This baffled me for a while until I found it. Given the low spring pressure, in the back it doesn't need much differential to open. With a bit of a leak at your TB, you've already created some pressure differential between this point and the manifold. The latest versions switched to remote pressure source which I tried/modified similar idea.... but spring on back is still a bit weak for high boost and has been inconsistent. Not to be a brand whore, but the back of the HKS BOV valve is pushed on by any positive pressure to help keep it seated instead of the positive pressure help lifting it against differential/quick release. Think I'm going to switch back to HKS for this setup seeing as my boost during transition causes issues... simply need something that seats all the time under positive pressure.




drilled out and new pressure tap location installed... all for naught as likely going to not use this bov.


Here is the RTA of the exhaust differences between single and the dual and side open. The harmonics do indeed explain why I think it's twice as loud whereas the overall was only a few dB off.



Not sure I ever posted the intercooler... I had just went with a treadstone unit at the time and rewelded outlets a bit more forward. The split fin inside the end tank to help distribute air flow more evenly is killer. I used to have someone do this for me and it was a pain. Pre-made units and the price was less than the fuel pump hanger. Seems to be working good so far...


Last edited by whatthe; 03-10-2016 at 11:51 PM.
whatthe is offline  
post #74 of 156 (permalink) Old 03-22-2016, 12:56 AM Thread Starter
Enthusiast
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Posts: 1,225
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 144 Post(s)
           
The non-driven wheel speed sensor I decided to use was apparently broken. So, I swapped to the other sensor for the time being and finally have a non-driven wheel speed sensor signal. I need this as the torque down low makes normal turns into hoonigan drift turns without much for throttle input.

Also have just been finding new and exciting ways for the sequential setup to complicate my life and require more effort and things to weld/add/change. I had built an awesome super long expander from turbo#2 compressor outlet up to the 3" piping... but it somehow managed to just cause co-surge between the compressors. Which is an issue normally associated with different turbine speeds on dual turbo not having a short-circuited manifold or different layout/pulses like V8 configuration. I now have the ugliest IACV setup possible, with no more heat wrap that is permanently attached to my other pipe... but no more insanely loud surge trying to stall and otherwise kill my turbos.

Other than that, my i-boost switch has no resistance and is officially useless. It worked for a bit, but looking into cause of death still.

I took a few slightly better pics of the car a while ago, but never posted them. still needed to be polished some more, but the black headlights look a lot better than the multi-color option on the car before.







PANIC!!! and blkdout like this.

Last edited by whatthe; 03-22-2016 at 01:02 AM.
whatthe is offline  
post #75 of 156 (permalink) Old 03-28-2016, 09:30 PM Thread Starter
Enthusiast
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Posts: 1,225
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 144 Post(s)
           
I've been taking it out for a run every other day then shoving it back in the garage. Usually just 3rd gear pulls from 2000rpms-ish and up to try and get somewhat consistent logging but not deal with insane speeds. The VE based tuning has actually helped in a few ways.

Have had these plugs in for a few months. Decided it was about time to give them a look. Considering all I did was change the valve stem seals, cam seals, crank seals, and swapped this old unopened Aristo motor in, the plugs were looking pretty oil free and reasonably clean. Some fueling around threads when I was uber rich +idle initially, but generally quite happy. Cylinder 5 and moreso 6 looked the leanest of the bunch. Made a few individual cylinder 'guesses' based on the plugs. Swapped in some Iridiums instead of the coppers, I'll check them over again in a while and see how they are looking.



Sound clip playing with the two-step limiter... My phone wasn't standing very firm so video ended up pointing at ceiling and pretty useless. Apparently you can't just add sound clips so couple pics added.

https://youtu.be/OqRIqOgOx2o


<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/OqRIqOgOx2o" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
whatthe is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

  Lexus IS Forum > Member Rides and Builds > Member Build Threads - Lexus IS only

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Lexus IS Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself. If your address is invalid, you will likely lose access to the site.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in









Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Current users viewing this Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome