Pro EFI 128, Custom sequential, VVTi GTE IS underway - Page 4 - Lexus IS Forum
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post #46 of 156 (permalink) Old 12-13-2014, 01:55 AM Thread Starter
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OEM coolant hose connections to turbo in a bad spot where I needed pipe to be.

New -6AN weld bung installed for the take-off

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post #47 of 156 (permalink) Old 12-13-2014, 02:43 AM Thread Starter
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I have now cleaned up the first post to reflect actual configuration since this project has had a lot of back and forth over the years. This should make it way easier to follow what is actually on the car!

I'm leaving original info after the updated pics in the posts so people can still have a reference on how things have changed. There are some bits of useful info
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post #48 of 156 (permalink) Old 04-22-2015, 05:22 PM Thread Starter
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Naturally the battery sits where I need another part under the hood. So I grabbed a battery box, wiring, and moved the battery to the trunk. In prorgress pic below. Destined more to be the lower level like an amp rack, with a little better finishing... but I think making it looked more polished will have to wait for next winter.



Fuel pump relay solenoids stashed by some of the factory goods



The Dayton Audio Sub mounted up. Extra weight for traction, provide some low end frequency support, and drown out the extra noise... so many uses. Infinite baffle set-ups I truly love, so...




I've had this soundstream reference 405 amp forever, and has been in 3-4 cars. Enough power for me, great sound, and completely old school. The Mini-DSP is set up with one channel for front left mid, one channel front left tweeter, front right mid, front right tweeter. Using a 12 VDC isolator mounted on the back side. Originally was thinking of mounting closer to battery, or a second amp by the battery. Will see how if I change my mind in time. Little dusty, it had been painted by guy when I bought it used so many years ago.



For the proefi, I just moved a few of the extra computers under the dash and wires around a bit, built a bracket for it, and stuffed it here. Sits up nicely behind the panel now. This was when I was doing some of the test fitting.



Don't think I posted this earlier. Triple plate clutch.. must have the discs off and hang them on the transmission spline and then install them onto the flywheel through the bellhousing when transmission is up close into place. There is absolutely no room to caress the V160 in and go through all splines with the entire clutch assembled. Really annoying with front end angled up as I have my IS off the lift so I could work on another car




Just been going through double checking some ProEFI wiring at the Proefi, at the ECU, and all the accessories. Found 4 wires on my Proefi J1C harness mis-pinned on the pre-made portion of the IS specific harness I had bought. Not sure what happened there, but not really great if I had not found them. Would definitely recommend people doing some checks in an excel sheet at both ends to confirm everything on their own.

Started up fuel pumps, ran them for a few minutes and confirmed leak-free fuel lines..

As soon as some fittings come for my cables, will be running through some more checks on turbo side, software side, and then will be ready to see if it starts. Still likely a few weeks away, and then onto finishing up some body prep for the paint. Likely be June with my schedule, but have the green light to spend more time in garage, so you never know.
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Last edited by whatthe; 04-22-2015 at 05:29 PM.
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post #49 of 156 (permalink) Old 04-28-2015, 05:40 PM
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I'm also going ProEfi on a similar build, did you use the GE harness and ProEfi PNP sub harness?
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post #50 of 156 (permalink) Old 04-29-2015, 10:54 AM Thread Starter
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Yep I used the 'pnp' harness with the GE harness, managed to unclip move things around in the ecu box under the hood to squeeze it in. The GE harness I unwrapped most of it and was able to route most of the wires the way I wanted without cutting.

The pnp harness is nicely made, but will still likely require some additional pins and wires, so I would consider more 'mostly' PnP. i.e. you will have to add the fuel pressure sensor separate, CAN gauge had to be wired in (CAN cable was pre-wired at least), traction control to the ABS computer has to be done separately, etc..
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post #51 of 156 (permalink) Old 04-29-2015, 11:25 AM Thread Starter
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Was just thinking that I should have grabbed some more pics of the changes on the GE harness, but really it's easier just to have the stuff in front of you when you are doing it. Just go through and double check that the wires will run over to the different location of the throttle body motor control, TPS, MAF, etc.

Try to use some more specific higher heat black tape for the harness (3M makes some). If you don't, you'll likely be able to peel off everything you taped in a very short time.

Not sure I ever posted this either, but you can see mostly what I did for rewire around the fuel rail and injectors here. The dual feed, center return rail, larger injectors, and keeping stock throttle body control, and even access to the oil filter location



testing vid I had taken for the triple plate clutch through the bellhousing

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post #52 of 156 (permalink) Old 04-29-2015, 11:56 AM
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Garage
How did you tap in the traction control to ABS?

ProEFI / V160 IS300 742rwhp Alpha Tuned

Spring Setup: 10:1 GTE Motor, V160, Proefi128, S369SXE...

My Build Thread

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post #53 of 156 (permalink) Old 04-29-2015, 12:53 PM Thread Starter
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I haven't tried what I've wired in yet, but I did a fair amount of cross referencing, so I'm confident it should be as close as it can be. My excel sheet is at home, but I'll dig it up and make a post here in the near future. Have marked wire colors, etc.

Basically requires 6 wires if you want to take advantage of the trac switch and light as well. You have to go inbetween ProEFI and the ABS/TRAC ecu with trac switch input, trac active light, trac enabled output, and the front/rear sensors from a side and an ABS sensor ground.
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post #54 of 156 (permalink) Old 05-05-2015, 10:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whatthe View Post
I haven't tried what I've wired in yet, but I did a fair amount of cross referencing, so I'm confident it should be as close as it can be. My excel sheet is at home, but I'll dig it up and make a post here in the near future. Have marked wire colors, etc.

Basically requires 6 wires if you want to take advantage of the trac switch and light as well. You have to go inbetween ProEFI and the ABS/TRAC ecu with trac switch input, trac active light, trac enabled output, and the front/rear sensors from a side and an ABS sensor ground.
Thanks for the info, it would be great if you can post the excel sheet. I definitely want to use the trac button and light.
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post #55 of 156 (permalink) Old 05-06-2015, 12:17 AM Thread Starter
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I'll clean my excel sheet here and post what I'm using for the trac connections, and other wires. Just focused on getting car started for the weekend. I bet the wife I would start the car... so I must get it started or it's going to sit until it's antique.

Mind you, distracting myself by 'quickly' putting in some new bushings everywhere in the front, probably wasn't a great helper to my cause.

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post #56 of 156 (permalink) Old 05-11-2015, 05:45 PM Thread Starter
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Red Face

One small victory, actually started the car on the weekend! It was a little late in the evening to leave it running long with the currently very open exhaust, but did found a couple things to tweak - leaky BOV, and think a wire pulled out on one of sensors... I'll do a full warm up with it later this week.

Also started cleaning up the excel file, and making something a little more understandable for the masses here. Will check the trac switch and light on the dash works as it should and post up after
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post #57 of 156 (permalink) Old 06-01-2015, 04:38 PM Thread Starter
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While putting suspension back together, noticed one of control arms didn't quite match the bend of the other side. The kink explained the difference on the caster settings between the sides, so ended up replacing the lower control arms on the passenger side. After I noticed the lower control arms, I recalled a comment on camber being near max from the alignment tech when I had it done years back. I figured some more camber adjustment will come in handy if I go lower with the new coilovers... so I picked up and installed a set of upper ebay control arms with the camber adjustment (similar to Megan style). I'll have my oem upper arms with swapped bushings as a backup if ebay ones are no good I guess.

As for the TRAC settings.... with the TRAC input request going to the stock switch and dash light going through proefi, I was able to get the light on the dash go on/off which gives me more confidence that I've chosen the right wires. I still want to run the car a little more to test the rest, but just finishing up some bodywork and going through some fun on the proefi side now as well, so bit of a delay.

My coolant temp and map sensors were not reading accurately in the base map I received (quite a bit out), so I took the coolant temp sensor, measured resistance at different temps and built some tables for it. Kind of annoying the way Proefi is configured back to an ADC count vs. a resistance, but after I fixed it, the coolant temp did read accurately. Also fixed up the settings on the pressure sensor which was configured for a 3 bar sensor vs. the 5 bar sensor (not even sure why I have a 5 bar sensor, as it will be some time before I go wildly over 3 bar). Anyway, with those reading per the real world, I started it up again and it coated my garage, plugs, oil, and neighbours in fuel... with more accurate temp and pressure readings it should run better, so working through this now. Not sure if injectors were pulsing while I was sitting there slowly making changes (software shows a pulsewidth with car in On position but not on), if it's a firmware issue (mine is slightly outdated as I've had it so long), if the calibrated sensors threw off some other map, if it's flexfuel related (which I don't have but Alphas map had some items related to flexfuel I attempted to get rid of), or if it was related to my ecu going into trial mode.... which, after I can connect my car to internet, I can get the ECU out of trial mode and try it again. My garage is offset from house, so just need to grab an extender and get that sorted. Worst comes to comes, I'll just do the Version 4 firmware update now and start over.

As for the bodywork going on in the meantime - getting rid of the sidemouldings (sorry, these remind me of the 80s), adding a spot for second exhaust, cleaning up fender roll from previous owner, etc..
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post #58 of 156 (permalink) Old 06-10-2015, 11:58 AM
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I need to start my parts collection, got the GTE already. Just need to start buying parts for the upgraded twins and ProEFI. I'd love to see what you did for Traction Control once you finish up your excel.

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post #59 of 156 (permalink) Old 10-14-2015, 01:02 AM Thread Starter
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Hope your parts list is coming along as well. ^^^ Having the parts is definitely half the battle, and something always seems to be missing.

Excel is pretty much done, but I was really hoping that ProEFI would answer a different question I sent them first. That hasn't happened, so I'll just wait until it is actually on the road here.

This is the big bad body work update post. I've done more than enough sanding, primer, more sanding, fixing, primer, primer sealer, more sanding, etc. etc. for a lifetime. But at least you can see a small portion of what I've been up to on it.

Wasn't sure how adding the dual exhaust would work out



hacked off the one from my old bumper


welded it in


turned out good for just using wide tip on my soldering iron, and should be strong as stock piece now


Either the guy who sold it neglected to mentioned the fender was repaired/purchased on a scratch and dent sale, or brand new Vertex fenders have a ton of low/high spots and people should be checking these on their guide coats. The right side especially had some pretty serious ridges that took effort to clean up




pre-seal coat




primer/seal coat - more block sanding in store - yay.




Spoiler raised a little and blended in. Couldn't really find spoiler that I loved



Pic a few coats in... Had 5 fans, one in rafters pointing down, two blowing out formed to a different poly sheet in bottom, my man door converted to bunch of furnace filters to replace the air, and couple I have more permanent in my garage bringing outside air in and out.



Mid base coat, checking for mottle/uneven/striping... took at least 8 coats and a drop coat for me to be happy on final. Not sure if it was the low temp, or just the brand (Valspar/House of Kolor), but it took 2-3 light/binder coats or the solvents would pop out. I read a guy on here with his yellow IS had issues with House of Kolor. Happy in the end, but took some learning for me to get used to it.



Color is the most similar to Liquid Blue like the Ford show cars that I like and could find. Has a fair amount of effect additive and goes from darker blue to very white/sapphire in a bit of light. door gaps not readjusted yet



Couldn't handle opening the door to blue... even the front window was out along with pretty much all interior right now. I don't like tape lines, but blend as best I can. Defintely was not going to try to do jambs and paint at same time.



Turned out fairly well, but again, not ideal temp. Going to try another block sand on the clear and flow coat the clear in couple days.



Glimpse of the hood mods. Cut with 6-7 angle, welded in some metal, welded in thicker ridge at front of scoop so it would look less cheap, filled it in, generally spent too much time on it...
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Last edited by whatthe; 10-14-2015 at 01:22 AM.
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post #60 of 156 (permalink) Old 10-20-2015, 11:58 PM Thread Starter
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missed pic of the front bumper. Although the final finish feels and looks pretty smooth, it can always be better. Have some extra clear on there anyway and starting 1500/2000 grit sand on the entire car which will followed by a round with ye ol faithful Makita polisher.



The pic of the 1500 grit stage that usually freaks people out who haven't done any detailing or body work.



Grabbed wider OZs for the rear, and turned out the new silver didn't match well to the silver on my original OZ rims. The paint on the brand new ones looked more splotchy in comparison as well (quality downhill slightly compared to old one). Either way, really wanted these to match so I ended up sanding down the rims, sprayed on 2 part catalyzed primer, sanded that down smooth, and will go with a flat black for the time being.

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