Pro EFI 128, Custom sequential, VVTi GTE IS underway - Page 2 - Lexus IS Forum
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post #16 of 161 (permalink) Old 03-04-2011, 12:49 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by IS_BoostByPsi View Post
Thanks for the explaination.

So what does this mean for each head? GTE flow better or does the GE?
Itís hard to say what would flow better without having them on a flow bench. Sometimes what seems intuitive, ends up being backwards when working with heads.
And since the area closest to the valve seat generally has the biggest impact to flow, this may negate most of the differences between GE and GTE close to the port exit.

Basically, there are two different trains of thought between the heads that suits their stock application better. i.e. The GTE exhaust ports do better to feed into sequential turbos with potentially higher backpressure. GE intake ports suit a 'tuned intake' system, etc. etc.

If I were to guess on flow, I think the GE exhaust ports would flow better. The GE ports expand more like a nozzle, and donít have as sharp of a turn to the sides (the GTE ports are spaced further from the center of the head to allow space for the sequential). The GE ports might actually be better suited for a nice tubular intake manifold and larger turbo then the GTE ports are.

The intake port flow win might go to the GTE.... but with the shallower angle, maybe not. I certainly donít think the intake ports on the GE head would be a reason to not try it out.

More to come
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post #17 of 161 (permalink) Old 06-10-2011, 10:38 PM
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I am curious if you have done any more research to this subject?

Doing a 2JZ-GTE swap into an IS300? Click here for the Swap Manual: http://my.is/forums/f114/2jz-gte-swa...rd-doc-431423/
-To be fair to everyone- This is the internet, and we are all different sources, so each source will probably have different answers, and I do know that there are some people out there who are complete idiots....

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post #18 of 161 (permalink) Old 03-09-2012, 08:50 PM
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What did you do for the vvti to proefi harness??

Doing a 2JZ-GTE swap into an IS300? Click here for the Swap Manual: http://my.is/forums/f114/2jz-gte-swa...rd-doc-431423/
-To be fair to everyone- This is the internet, and we are all different sources, so each source will probably have different answers, and I do know that there are some people out there who are complete idiots....

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post #19 of 161 (permalink) Old 05-15-2013, 11:06 PM Thread Starter
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I'm semi back from the dead, although battling availability.

I didn't get the time I wanted on this and ended up having to buy another car and put this project on hold for couple years (kids, work, etc.). It sat graciously on my lift until a couple of weeks ago... where I actually began to get my hands dirty again.

I'm also tearing down the paint so it looks about 3/4 of the way to a Delorean at the moment. Haven't even decided what color to paint. I may just go with Wifes favorite color so that she will subliminally like the car no matter what.

Also upgrading the stereo with active equalization/timing/better amplification/better selected speakers

Regarding power- although it's nice to read the stories where cars are built straight to the finish line, I'm thinking it would be nice to document a few stages that people could take.

i.e. -

Stage 1 stock twins, stock VVTi GTE, stock manual trans, ProEFI, etc.... The plan is currently to have this stage completed within a month. The more I think about, the more I realize that this is going to be a much better starting point for trying hundreds of different things. That, and it will be much better feedback for average people thinking about the swap, but not insane horsepower numbers.

Stage 2 will depend on how quickly Stage 1 progresses.
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post #20 of 161 (permalink) Old 05-15-2013, 11:14 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by indirocz28 View Post
I am curious if you have done any more research to this subject?
I threw together another flow bench (only 6 motors or so) with Venturi style meter and ran some quick tests shortly after.... will see if I can find where I wrote that info down.
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post #21 of 161 (permalink) Old 05-15-2013, 11:21 PM Thread Starter
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What did you do for the vvti to proefi harness??
'

I will be using the OEM IS300 harness on the motor, and for the ECU I bought the IS300 harness available from Proefi. Had gone through this and layed it all out couple years ago. Compatibility with connections is remarkable, and will be easiest way to retain a 'planned' code free existence.
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post #22 of 161 (permalink) Old 06-11-2013, 10:42 PM Thread Starter
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Movies Sequential Valve Operation

Back when I had my Aristo (imported in Canada here), I hooked up LEDs on the solenoids to see when they were being pulsed or switched over. It's good reference for others. Also holds various bits of info in order for me to do what I need to do now.

This was minimum throttle I could get the change over to happen. Higher gear so you can see it sort of slow mo.


Here you can see IACV and EGCV staying open after WOT.


Light Throttle to 5000 rpms will actually keep closed.


Still some things to figure out on ProEFI side if it is going to behave in a more predictable fashion


This is no longer relevant for this stage, but example of flow test. Several vac moors, venturi style DP meter with some pretty long straight lenghts in between, home brew manometers.. etc. Still trying to find my numbers from this. Aristo head won out on small margin, and I ditched thoughts of NA head despite how the ports looked.


Quick shot of WOT operation


Last edited by whatthe; 06-12-2013 at 01:02 PM.
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post #23 of 161 (permalink) Old 06-11-2013, 10:56 PM Thread Starter
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About time to start adding some photos.

The engine in the first post is going to remain in pieces for some time, so picked up second motor to get this actually on the road with phase 1.
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post #24 of 161 (permalink) Old 06-24-2013, 12:16 AM Thread Starter
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Old sway bar bushing helping out for part of ABS relocation. Drilled out the tack welds on bottom part of stock bracket, tweaked lines so I could move it forward and to the side. Have to weld on separate piece to complete bracket once I know it will fit with twins in place.



The factory wastegate full open. Combined with tortuous exit path for the wastegate it's no wonder there is major boostcreep. Did some porting, shaping of turbine inlet, wastegate port, and exhaust housing as well as some tweaks for a little more wastegate travel. Hopefully will have more consistent boost control.. All the amazing boost control options in the proefit will be all for naught if the wastegate doesn't function properly.



Some actual progress being made now.



Feed me...


Last edited by whatthe; 06-24-2013 at 12:31 AM.
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post #25 of 161 (permalink) Old 06-24-2013, 08:34 AM
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Just checked out this thread for the first time... nice work and interesting discussions.. I really like your port molds and LEDs in the Aristo to show whats actually happening! Will be interested to see more...

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post #26 of 161 (permalink) Old 08-02-2013, 03:17 PM Thread Starter
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Haven't updated for a while as have stayed out of garage. Been waiting on ProEFI guys to update V3 firmware for IS300. Have someone else now that will hopefully speed a basic IS xcal file along. Doing some tweaking in the meantime.

A simple cut of the heater core line, machining down turbo #2 inlet flanges, sliding wiring harness in between, still not enough. Couple more bits to add here on that subject as I have time.


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post #27 of 161 (permalink) Old 08-07-2013, 02:31 PM
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This thread has "like" stamped all over it.

Can't wait to see this in person!

Migs

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post #28 of 161 (permalink) Old 09-18-2013, 05:54 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks bud. Know any autobody guys in town? Car is mostly sanded down minus two doors, and some prep work. I have been lacking the time to finish up work on it.

In general stock twins are a bit of a PITA for sure. Location of heater core pipes are terrible with the stock twins. In addition to the usual, I 90d down from the firewall to the coolant connection on the block instead of trying to use the twisted coolant pipe that attaches the number 2 turbo. Also bent some of the vacuum line fittings out of the way. Plus that little nub on turbo number 2 needs to cut off due to obvious interference with frame rail.

But, all that messing around is for nothing anyway. Given the lack of timely ProEFI support to get my ECU with a base file that it was not shipped with, it's looking like I will just yank the motor and ditch the stock twins and trans now. Going to start searching for trans upgrades and work on the new twins now.

Already have the ID injectors, dual pump hanger, bigger lines, rail, etc.. Will have info on all of that here as well.
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post #29 of 161 (permalink) Old 07-06-2014, 11:22 AM Thread Starter
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OS Giken Triple Plate Clutch. I considered most of the options out there. Three plates = much more surface area to hold the torque and handle the heat/abuse better. Also, I don't like a high clamp load with single clutches, and despite the variety of space age materials with the single options, I could always find references to high horsepower guy who toasted one after xx amount of runs.



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post #30 of 161 (permalink) Old 07-06-2014, 11:40 AM Thread Starter
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'Quick' 1300 kilometer drive to pick what I'm told is basically a new V160. Did I mention my wife is understanding?



Looks like they stripped the ends of the studs on the stock tailshaft (possibly incorrectly sized nuts), plus mount was super floppy so grabbed some new pieces -TRD V160 trans mount, new tailshaft piece, cover plates, several pieces in order to bolt together from the shifter, SRT V160 trans bracket, shifter relocation, etc.




First I put transmission in with the stock tunnel liner in place and couldn't bolt up the trans bracket, and couldn't really see where it was touching. So I removed the liner, put it back in marked everything, took it back out, did some mild sledge hammer tunnel modifications in a few spots as needed, and then re-installed, and then marked a little more, and then took it out, and then hammered it... well you get the point.

If you don't bash out the tunnel, I don't see how you won't rub or feel terrible vibration, squish the factory mounts all over the place and pretty much ensure the driveshaft won't be lined up perfectly.

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