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Pro EFI 128, Custom sequential, VVTi GTE IS underway

46K views 184 replies 34 participants last post by  01 SolarYellow 
#1 · (Edited)
I'm updating the very first post in this thread so that people can actually see what is on the car and the more relevant build photos. I will use this post to show current configuration.

This project started soo long ago, and has gone through several different iterations before it has even had a chance to get back on the road. i.e. I started out planning to do custom sequential, then planned to run stock twins for a while using the stock transmission just to get it on the road, then decided to keep it parked for while longer and the final iteration has had me solidly focused on using the upgraded twins and building other mods to support the upgraded twins.


You'll notice through the thread that I had planned to modify previous motor I grabbed, stock fuel rail at one point, W55 at one point, started doing flow bench testing, got tired of flow matching a couple of the cylinders and ended up just picking up another used motor. Modifying the motor will be saved for a time when I decide if I really need a ridiculous amount of power.


Engine bay emptied out pre-motor




Aristo VVti on truck ride home


Aristo VVTi off the crate. Had an earlier one took apart to build the head, but will finish the head at a later date. Currently unopened motor with maintenance like new valve stem seals, belts, etc.



Back when redoing harness … I was thinking of stock rail and twins at the time. Only part relevant here is the harness mods at work



Some mods necessary to the ABS bracket for relocation


Some of the work required for the custom sequential setup


Turbo coolant pipe


IACV modification



Back half of turbos to EGCV


Building the manifold early on


Schedule 40 weld els for the manifold.


tube


Able to remove twins with engine in car by shortening studs



Dual feed fuel rail


The ID850s


Squash performance dual pump hanger - DW pumps. Didn’t like the overlap of the fuel pump screens, so used stock pickup and one of the others that came with pump.


Top of the fuel pump hanger


Fuel lab filter prior to install. Don't have a photo on here, but mounted on bottom of car up towards where stock fuel components come up


Testing of the braided lines


Exhaust flex joints, wrap, etc.


The all important getrag


Box of parts for the Getrag install


The all important triple plate clutch to handle what will be triple the torque over stock.


Not the hardest mounts out there, but definitely had less flex than stock when trying to put motor in


HKS coils - waiting for christmas so I can open them and surprise myself at the gift from my wife


Dayton Sub – to be installed IB after it’s running


$20 Aurasound tweeters stuffed into factory pods




Onto the original post

----------------------------------------


I've been waiting for years to try out a couple of turbos I specd for a custom sequential. It's in process right now, but unless I run out of time, or room, it should go as planned.

The car - 02 5 spd. GGP. leather, sunroof, lsd, etc. It may go for a repaint, with TTE bumper and such here before summer

Main mods thus far are DBA Supra rotors/Figs brackets, hotchkis sway bars, springs, etc.



I've worked with a lot of different ECUs, and I'm excited about playing with all of the features on the ProEFI. ProEFI is the only thing that can control the twin setup easily for me. It's kind of baffling all of the technical items they've incorporated on this.





The donor motor, waiting on a few parts for maintenance. The head may come off here for a quick port and test on the flow bench and then back on with ARP studs. Planning more on a torquey street style setup.



More to come....
 
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#4 ·
There's always time to switch. :) Knock control with proper target frequencies, filters, automatically rolls back timing to varying degrees, switches to alternate timing map automatically based on number of scenarios... boost control with load, rpm gear, intergral, proportional, etc..... traction control... Should be the cats meow for maximizing safety and power from daily driver.

As for pics, I have pics on camera and a different computer. I will start loading them up as things come together more.
 
#3 ·
Interesting. Any more pics?
 
#9 ·
The price of the proefi actually isn't too bad given the complexity of all the controls it provides. Even though some of the same features are listed on other ECUs, the other ecus generally lack the ability to manipulate the control the way you need to in order to make it at least OEM functional or better then OEM functional. With a lot of the other ecus, this generally results in a great feature for marketing, but in reality, it works as a half assed attempt at doing what OEM did. Plus, I always had small inconsistencies with AEM stuff that appeared car after car when I worked tuning... things that I felt are unacceptable when trying to build an ultra reliable street driven modified car.

If some guys are worried about budget, I'd say pick up the proefi ECU and harness only to get it running... and then add the CAN gauge option, boost control solenoids, and all that down the road as your pocket allows.

Anyway, small update on the project - I took the head off seeing as I can't just leave well enough alone. The head is apart and I'm doing some mild port and chamber work on it, along with valve stem seals, minor work on seats, etc... I may throw it on the flow bench and compare heads if I have the time.

Also prepping for the TTE bumper.

Weather here was back up to 50 F for a week, but of course I couldn't get out to the garage. Now that it's closer to 0F again, I have a little bit of time. Go figure...
 
#10 · (Edited)
Whenever I have time, it's cold. Going to try to take a week off work if it ever gets warm.000

I managed to take some port molds on GE and GTE VVTi ports. There are different philosophies between them, and I would be surprised if they flowed the same as some others say (mind you, differences after the valve make less of a difference to flow). I may throw the heads on my flow bench before putting the engine back together. Without really getting into a lot of details on the heads, see pics below.

GE exhaust port has much larger exit. GE vs GTE exhaust


GE vs GTE exhaust


GE intake port is at a much steeper angle, and uses smaller port to compensate.

GE vs GTE intake (GTE the big round one)
 
#16 ·
It’s hard to say what would flow better without having them on a flow bench. Sometimes what seems intuitive, ends up being backwards when working with heads.
And since the area closest to the valve seat generally has the biggest impact to flow, this may negate most of the differences between GE and GTE close to the port exit.

Basically, there are two different trains of thought between the heads that suits their stock application better. i.e. The GTE exhaust ports do better to feed into sequential turbos with potentially higher backpressure. GE intake ports suit a 'tuned intake' system, etc. etc.

If I were to guess on flow, I think the GE exhaust ports would flow better. The GE ports expand more like a nozzle, and don’t have as sharp of a turn to the sides (the GTE ports are spaced further from the center of the head to allow space for the sequential). The GE ports might actually be better suited for a nice tubular intake manifold and larger turbo then the GTE ports are.

The intake port flow win might go to the GTE.... but with the shallower angle, maybe not. I certainly don’t think the intake ports on the GE head would be a reason to not try it out.

More to come
 
#17 ·
I am curious if you have done any more research to this subject?
 
#18 ·
What did you do for the vvti to proefi harness??
 
#21 ·
'

I will be using the OEM IS300 harness on the motor, and for the ECU I bought the IS300 harness available from Proefi. Had gone through this and layed it all out couple years ago. Compatibility with connections is remarkable, and will be easiest way to retain a 'planned' code free existence.
 
#19 ·
I'm semi back from the dead, although battling availability.

I didn't get the time I wanted on this and ended up having to buy another car and put this project on hold for couple years (kids, work, etc.). It sat graciously on my lift until a couple of weeks ago... where I actually began to get my hands dirty again.

I'm also tearing down the paint so it looks about 3/4 of the way to a Delorean at the moment. Haven't even decided what color to paint. I may just go with Wifes favorite color so that she will subliminally like the car no matter what.

Also upgrading the stereo with active equalization/timing/better amplification/better selected speakers

Regarding power- although it's nice to read the stories where cars are built straight to the finish line, I'm thinking it would be nice to document a few stages that people could take.

i.e. -

Stage 1 stock twins, stock VVTi GTE, stock manual trans, ProEFI, etc.... The plan is currently to have this stage completed within a month. The more I think about, the more I realize that this is going to be a much better starting point for trying hundreds of different things. That, and it will be much better feedback for average people thinking about the swap, but not insane horsepower numbers.

Stage 2 will depend on how quickly Stage 1 progresses.
 
#22 · (Edited)
Sequential Valve Operation

Back when I had my Aristo (imported in Canada here), I hooked up LEDs on the solenoids to see when they were being pulsed or switched over. It's good reference for others. Also holds various bits of info in order for me to do what I need to do now.

This was minimum throttle I could get the change over to happen. Higher gear so you can see it sort of slow mo.



Here you can see IACV and EGCV staying open after WOT.



Light Throttle to 5000 rpms will actually keep closed.



Still some things to figure out on ProEFI side if it is going to behave in a more predictable fashion


This is no longer relevant for this stage, but example of flow test. Several vac moors, venturi style DP meter with some pretty long straight lenghts in between, home brew manometers.. etc. Still trying to find my numbers from this. Aristo head won out on small margin, and I ditched thoughts of NA head despite how the ports looked.



Quick shot of WOT operation

 
#23 ·
About time to start adding some photos.

The engine in the first post is going to remain in pieces for some time, so picked up second motor to get this actually on the road with phase 1.
 

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#24 · (Edited)
Old sway bar bushing helping out for part of ABS relocation. Drilled out the tack welds on bottom part of stock bracket, tweaked lines so I could move it forward and to the side. Have to weld on separate piece to complete bracket once I know it will fit with twins in place.



The factory wastegate full open. Combined with tortuous exit path for the wastegate it's no wonder there is major boostcreep. Did some porting, shaping of turbine inlet, wastegate port, and exhaust housing as well as some tweaks for a little more wastegate travel. Hopefully will have more consistent boost control.. All the amazing boost control options in the proefit will be all for naught if the wastegate doesn't function properly.



Some actual progress being made now.



Feed me...

 
#25 ·
Just checked out this thread for the first time... nice work and interesting discussions.. I really like your port molds and LEDs in the Aristo to show whats actually happening! Will be interested to see more...
 
#26 ·
Haven't updated for a while as have stayed out of garage. Been waiting on ProEFI guys to update V3 firmware for IS300. Have someone else now that will hopefully speed a basic IS xcal file along. Doing some tweaking in the meantime.

A simple cut of the heater core line, machining down turbo #2 inlet flanges, sliding wiring harness in between, still not enough. Couple more bits to add here on that subject as I have time.


 
#27 ·
This thread has "like" stamped all over it.

Can't wait to see this in person!

Migs
 
#28 ·
Thanks bud. Know any autobody guys in town? Car is mostly sanded down minus two doors, and some prep work. I have been lacking the time to finish up work on it.

In general stock twins are a bit of a PITA for sure. Location of heater core pipes are terrible with the stock twins. In addition to the usual, I 90d down from the firewall to the coolant connection on the block instead of trying to use the twisted coolant pipe that attaches the number 2 turbo. Also bent some of the vacuum line fittings out of the way. Plus that little nub on turbo number 2 needs to cut off due to obvious interference with frame rail.

But, all that messing around is for nothing anyway. Given the lack of timely ProEFI support to get my ECU with a base file that it was not shipped with, it's looking like I will just yank the motor and ditch the stock twins and trans now. Going to start searching for trans upgrades and work on the new twins now.

Already have the ID injectors, dual pump hanger, bigger lines, rail, etc.. Will have info on all of that here as well.
 
#29 ·
OS Giken Triple Plate Clutch. I considered most of the options out there. Three plates = much more surface area to hold the torque and handle the heat/abuse better. Also, I don't like a high clamp load with single clutches, and despite the variety of space age materials with the single options, I could always find references to high horsepower guy who toasted one after xx amount of runs.



 
#30 ·
'Quick' 1300 kilometer drive to pick what I'm told is basically a new V160. Did I mention my wife is understanding?



Looks like they stripped the ends of the studs on the stock tailshaft (possibly incorrectly sized nuts), plus mount was super floppy so grabbed some new pieces -TRD V160 trans mount, new tailshaft piece, cover plates, several pieces in order to bolt together from the shifter, SRT V160 trans bracket, shifter relocation, etc.




First I put transmission in with the stock tunnel liner in place and couldn't bolt up the trans bracket, and couldn't really see where it was touching. So I removed the liner, put it back in marked everything, took it back out, did some mild sledge hammer tunnel modifications in a few spots as needed, and then re-installed, and then marked a little more, and then took it out, and then hammered it... well you get the point.

If you don't bash out the tunnel, I don't see how you won't rub or feel terrible vibration, squish the factory mounts all over the place and pretty much ensure the driveshaft won't be lined up perfectly.

 
#32 ·
The nice part about letting your car sit for so long, is that it allows you to wait for the right part to come along. :)

I picked up the OS Giken during one of the better sales on rhdjapan (not their usual sale thats on there everyday). Ordering JDM with OS Giken, you take the risk with no warranty. But, most of my parts don't have a warranty anymore... especially by the time I got around to installing them 6 months or two years later. :)
 
#33 ·
Pic of testing one end of the new fuel feed lines to the rail.



The pressure test kit for the DIY braided lines fills up with an end like a bike tire. After you pressurize it, you can either let it sit for days to see if it still holds pressure or... I found putting the end in water after it was pressurized revealed tiny bubble forming quite quickly.

Allowed me to get used to how much torque it took to seal the fittings 100% instead of 99%. Initially could see very minor bubble coming out by threads.
 
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