2002 Lexus IS300 Sportcross Maintenance Log - Page 4 - Lexus IS Forum
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post #46 of 63 (permalink) Old 11-20-2015, 10:40 PM Thread Starter
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Realise why you had a bitch of a time removing the valve covers. Manual says to remove the torx studs. I didn’t have the E5 bit so I just double nutted




Put the cam shaft retainers back on. I use The Right Stuff. It’s never done me wrong but use whatever you feel comfortable with




Connect the oil feed to the vvti oil control valve. Use new gaskets


My filter had a few bits in it


Then replace the cam and crank seals. I used the pipe adapter shown to push them in. Conveniently the small side was perfect for the cams and the larger side was perfect for the crank


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post #47 of 63 (permalink) Old 11-20-2015, 10:41 PM Thread Starter
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Decide to take a break and clean the radiator off to let it dry. It was filthy




Break out the new water pump now. I honestly wasn’t too impressed with the casting as there were many rough edges but it was acceptably smooth where it counts







Looks like FedEx used the water pump as a soccer ball


Comes with all of the necessary o-rings/gaskets except for the water bypass tube. Luckily the dealer sent me extras
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post #48 of 63 (permalink) Old 11-20-2015, 10:42 PM Thread Starter
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My water pump bolts needed to be cleaned off as they were covered in crap




Put new pump on




Put new thermostat in. Mine looked like it was used already. Came out of a sealed package so not sure why


Install the bypass tube (more on block heater later)


Put the bypass tube on
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post #49 of 63 (permalink) Old 11-20-2015, 10:43 PM Thread Starter
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Connect the alternator


I sprayed all of my connections with this cleaner. It’s not overly necessary if the rubbers on the inside of the plug were in good condition


Put the crank sprocket back on and don’t forget this little retainer


New idler pulley






Obtain a new bolt, clean the exhaust pulley off and re-install. I did the same method of holding the camshaft with a 32 mm wrench and tightening to proper torque




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post #50 of 63 (permalink) Old 11-20-2015, 10:44 PM Thread Starter
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Install the vvti pulley


It should move freely back and forth like before


Overall


Install new tensioner


Take time to clean off all of the build up inside the pulley grooves


Bust out the shiny new timing belt


Re-draw your markings on it but not necessary. This is a very easy engine to align properly


Obtain new timing cover from friend's blown Supra engine
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post #51 of 63 (permalink) Old 11-20-2015, 10:46 PM Thread Starter
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I might be the only person that torques down timing cover bolts (75 in-lb by the way)


Slide cover and crank pulley back on and be happy crank hasn’t moved


Re-install the crank pulley holder tool


Install the new tensioner


While you’re at it measure the valve clearances. All of mine were in spec (barely)




Install a new vvti oil cap gasket


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post #52 of 63 (permalink) Old 11-20-2015, 10:47 PM Thread Starter
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Clean the valve covers for re-installation


Use new gaskets




Clean the engine side really good especially around the corners




Everyone always gets in a dither about over torqueing the valve covers down. It’s not possible on these valve covers since you’d strip the aluminum threads longs before you crush the spacers on the bolt holes. What’s more important is the tightening sequence.

See spacers around bolt holes here


Put intake cover on


Realise your double nuts won’t work to get the valve cover studs back in so I had to go buy an E5 socket


Both valve covers on
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post #53 of 63 (permalink) Old 11-20-2015, 10:48 PM Thread Starter
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After they’re on start on the spark plugs and coils


Clean them off




I didn’t want to spend $300 (CAD) on the coils so I’m happy they tested okay




The plugs came out pink for some reason. I use Shell 91 gas only. No extra additives




Put new plug wires on since they’re cheap


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post #54 of 63 (permalink) Old 11-20-2015, 10:49 PM Thread Starter
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Change out the pressure control valve


Start hooking tubes back up and putting covers back on




The throttle body only opens half way with the mechanical linkage. The rest of it is opened by the electric motor when you hook up power to the car
<iframe width="420" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/eoX_k3qyPr8" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

https://youtu.be/eoX_k3qyPr8

Before installing the throttle body clean it out. I couldn’t believe how much crap was in there. I had a stumble at initial throttle when the engine was cold which has completely cleared up now. I’m guessing the dirt was the problem








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post #55 of 63 (permalink) Old 11-20-2015, 10:50 PM Thread Starter
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Install new y-pipe gasket




Put accessory belt on. At first I cursed the dealership for selling me an aftermarket belt (Mitsuboshi). I then realised it also said Toyota on it. Double the price well spent…….NOT (Borat voice)








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post #56 of 63 (permalink) Old 11-20-2015, 10:51 PM Thread Starter
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Then torque the crank pulley bolt to 243 ft-lb. Standard ” wrenches can do it. I made the same setup as removing the bolt just on the opposite side of the car. I never understood people’s fascinations of resting it against the frame rail where there are a bunch of wires and sensors. Just rest it on the ground people!








I pushed away from me which was a bit of a pain at the higher torque but still very manageable




Re-install the radiator and hoses. The bottom radiator mount was surprisingly in good condition


New hoses
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post #57 of 63 (permalink) Old 11-20-2015, 10:52 PM Thread Starter
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Install them with the lines matching on the car side








Re-install the airbox and whatever the hell this sensor is




Re-install the air tube and you’re basically done
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post #58 of 63 (permalink) Old 11-20-2015, 10:53 PM Thread Starter
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Block heater. The car didn’t have one so I bought the OEM kit from Toyota as mentioned in earlier posts. Fairly easy install except for that damn frost plug that pushed into the engine on me. I spent much time trying to get it out.




Frost plug goes sort of behind the water pump so very easy to do if you’re completing any of the above engine service


The black circle is what you want to hammer and chisel out


It is not the easily accessible one in plain view. That would be too easy. It’s the second one.


Le frost plug


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post #59 of 63 (permalink) Old 11-20-2015, 10:54 PM Thread Starter
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Here is the gaping hole. I marred it up a bit so I’ll put some of The Right Stuff on the flange while trying to keep the grease only on the o-ring












There is decent cord clearance


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post #60 of 63 (permalink) Old 11-20-2015, 10:55 PM Thread Starter
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I tied it off on the oxygen sensor wires and then ran it through the headlight hole




I’ll tie it off on the grill somewhere


My car was also due for a power steering flush. I cracked the lowest accessible line I could find. It doesn’t look like it but there was plenty of room with a simple 12 mm wrench to get this union off


I also took off the cooler and drained it to get the most amount of fluid out


The hoses look nice and accessible but they will cut the shit out of your arms reaching in there
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