2002 Lexus IS300 Sportcross Maintenance Log - Page 3 - Lexus IS Forum
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post #31 of 63 (permalink) Old 01-18-2015, 11:00 PM Thread Starter
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I tried to clean the laser with alcohol pads






This is the model of my radio for reference (model 16826)
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post #32 of 63 (permalink) Old 01-18-2015, 11:03 PM Thread Starter
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……..the cleaning did a whole lot of nothing since Error 1 still appeared as soon as I tried a CD. Woe

Here are two videos of the changer mechanism working. It does this sequence on its own as you put power to the unit.

This second video is the player trying to read the CD a few times. Once it gives up it displays error 1

Last edited by 99rs; 01-18-2015 at 11:09 PM.
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post #33 of 63 (permalink) Old 01-18-2015, 11:04 PM Thread Starter
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After that put everything back in



I didn’t like the cup holder that came with the car. I ordered a different one from Japan.
With it came some Japanese cookies or something. I have no idea what the bears are saying


The old cup holder


The new one


It’s adjustable to 3 different sizes.






Best part is it now matches the back which already had that style
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post #34 of 63 (permalink) Old 01-18-2015, 11:05 PM Thread Starter
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Changing subject I’m probably the only one on this planet who leather moisturised the first aid kit.


I did the rear differential fluid and engine oil today as well. Definitely not as straight forward as a Subaru but not overly bad. The filter is in an awkward place and it’s hard not to get spillage out of it. I wrote off my Tundra a year and a half ago and I still had a magnetic drain plug left over.



It’s one of those that can hold up a wrench




For accessing the filter there is conveniently a crease in the under shield that readily bends away. Denoted by the red line


When I had the view like below I had one of those horrid heart sinking moments. Out of the corner of my eye I noticed coolant in the oil filler cap area……or at least I thought I did. After the initial “oh crap!” I looked closer and it’s just oil residue that in the proper lighting made it look like dry coolant. Nothing to see here folks……….






For the rear differential it again was straight forward. The plugs were on there ultra tight. Many people just use a hose to get the fluid in. My last bit of hose had transmission fluid in it and I didn’t feel like going to get more. I took off the CV axle protector and there was the perfect amount of room to get just the tip of the bottle into the hole. In this case just the tip is fine.


Rear differential drain bolt was clean coming out. Not too bad


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post #35 of 63 (permalink) Old 01-18-2015, 11:05 PM Thread Starter
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M98 = Torsen LSD goodness


I wanted to see something cool inside but nothing really is there


This is the CV axle protector I swung out of the way. You only really have to undo one bolt and loosen the other


Nice and tight fit




And gauge cluster just because


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post #36 of 63 (permalink) Old 01-19-2015, 07:23 AM
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curious as to where you got the magnetic plugs?
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post #37 of 63 (permalink) Old 01-19-2015, 07:31 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lazyIS View Post
curious as to where you got the magnetic plugs?
From eBay about 5 years ago now. It's nothing special but we'll see what it picks up next oil change.
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post #38 of 63 (permalink) Old 11-20-2015, 10:28 PM Thread Starter
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The previous owner paid a sack load of money to get the timing belt and water pump replaced at 90k kilometers. He took it to a shop in Calgary that he’s been going to for years. The pump started to leak and got progressively worse which prompted me to redo the whole timing belt service. Since the shop messed up the water pump I figured they probably screwed something else up as well……I was unfortunately right.

Start with placing a large order to your favorite online parts place







New water pump goodness with all seals


New tensioner since I had a squeaker



Here is how it sat before any work began


The leaking water pump.





Jack it up and start taking parts off the car


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post #39 of 63 (permalink) Old 11-20-2015, 10:31 PM Thread Starter
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Remove airbox


Remove radiator




Remove accessory belt





I bought the tool to hold the crank pulley in place. Worked like a treat with 2 breaker bars.




I had to put an extension on the one holding the pulley as my breaker bar was too short to reach the ground


Here is a picture from just in front of the passenger side wheel


Here is a picture of me taking that picture
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post #40 of 63 (permalink) Old 11-20-2015, 10:32 PM Thread Starter
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Popped off with no fuss


I dosed it in this Rust Check stuff but not sure if it actually did anything other than frost the bolt over a little bit


New tensioner. It looks as if there was too much tension since the belt wore down the pulley. That or the previous owner idled the car a lot. It was from Vancouver so lots of traffic is a possibility.




Slide the crank pulley off using a tool or gripping really hard


Make sure the first timing mark is still correct


Once I pulled the pulley off I was shocked at what I saw. I’ve seen hack jobs before but dammit this one pissed me off. The previous Calgary shop forgot to put the timing belt guide washer on. So they decided to cut apart the timing cover to slide it on instead of taking everything apart to do it correctly. Here is what it looked like






After you pull the cover off here is what you should see. Notice the leaking water pump which was leaking inside of the timing belt housing as well
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post #41 of 63 (permalink) Old 11-20-2015, 10:34 PM Thread Starter
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Remove the water bypass tube/extension


Remove the pump itself. The frost plug I’ll be installing the block heater into is behind the bypass pipe. More on that later


Le pump


That’s basically it for a timing belt job if you want to stop there. I also wanted to check on the spark plugs so begin with the top side of the engine. Remove throttle cable




Take off the y-pipe bolts and the whole thing comes off as a unit




Little bit of oil in the intake chamber but not too much to worry about



Intake butterfly valve which apparently helps with low end torque


You should be left with this
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post #42 of 63 (permalink) Old 11-20-2015, 10:35 PM Thread Starter
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Take off the spark plug wires. Notice how much crap accumulates in the holes. Clean it out as best you can











Only after you’ve cleaned the spark plug crevices out is when you take the valve covers off. Don’t want any sand getting into the cam shaft areas

Exhaust cover off
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post #43 of 63 (permalink) Old 11-20-2015, 10:36 PM Thread Starter
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Both covers off


You can then proceed again with getting the cam gears off. You hold the camshaft with a 32 mm wrench


Here I’m “pumping” the oil out of the valve
<iframe width="420" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/8yvnmd-ljms" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

https://youtu.be/8yvnmd-ljms

And again curse the previous shop. It seems like they were using SAE tools on the metric hardware. I bought a new bolt to replace this one


Pull off the outer cap of the vvti gear


Then pull off the vvti gear and take the backing plate off. For reference notice where the “disconnected” vacuum hose connections go….basically nowhere. They just connect to each other.


Pull the cam shaft retainers off. On the vvti side there are some Allen bolts you have to take out




The cam seals just pop out nice and easy


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post #44 of 63 (permalink) Old 11-20-2015, 10:37 PM Thread Starter
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Here is the vvti oil control valve housing


With the ports


Here is the vvti gear itself. Mine wasn’t leaking but I’ll rebuild it anyway


Mark the locations for reference


Mine in particular was clocked all the way to the right


I had to separate mine with a socket as it was together pretty good


The culprit o-ring


The other side
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post #45 of 63 (permalink) Old 11-20-2015, 10:38 PM Thread Starter
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The driver gear


All 4 together


One of them had some gouges on it. Not sure how they got there




There is really only 1 way it can go back together. Some people say you can install it backwards but I didn’t see how


Here is the motion of the gear itself. The oil pressure “pushes” the driver gear out which rotates the outer driven gear to a different position


The replacement o-ring and its seat


Put everything back together and torque it down. I used 10 ft-lb.


Scrape the old valve cover gasket off
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