Dezod AEM V2 Wasted Spark to COP - Page 7 - Lexus IS Forum
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post #91 of 126 (permalink) Old 09-20-2014, 11:54 AM
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Nevermind all this ..

I just installed 6 coils of a non vvti 2jzgte and supras ignitor..

Car runs perfect now all the way..
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post #92 of 126 (permalink) Old 12-04-2014, 07:21 PM
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I am a little confused on this? When you guys say run 3 wires to the AEM v2 what about the other 3 coils when going COP? Does anyone have a diagram how they wired it up?

1992 Toyota Celica GT 5speed 3sgte swapped - SOLD
1992 Toyota Celica All-Trac - SOLD
1997 Civic EX Turbo 300whp 295tq - SOLD
2001 IS300 Auto - SOLD
2010 Subaru WRX Stage 3 328awhp - 387awtq - SOLD
2003 IS300 Pearl White 1jzgte VVTi - R154 - LSD - Tomei M8280 - 22psi - 418rwhp - 380rwtq
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post #93 of 126 (permalink) Old 12-05-2014, 06:46 AM
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There's already 3 wires for the stock coils...
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post #94 of 126 (permalink) Old 12-05-2014, 07:21 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LexusSpeed01 View Post
I am a little confused on this? When you guys say run 3 wires to the AEM v2 what about the other 3 coils when going COP? Does anyone have a diagram how they wired it up?
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Originally Posted by Max 1.6 View Post
There's already 3 wires for the stock coils...
Exactly. Wasted spark for 6 coils = 3 wires already there. So adding 3 more coils = adding 3 more wires.
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post #95 of 126 (permalink) Old 12-05-2014, 07:28 AM
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What I am asking is i know you add the 3 more wires for the other 3 coils. My question is do you just unplug the igniter? Don't have to cut and splice any of those wires together?

With the new LQ9 coils there is 4 pins on each one where do you tap the rest of the wires in?

I see this diagram from the MojoPerf but don't know where to tap in for the power and what not?


1992 Toyota Celica GT 5speed 3sgte swapped - SOLD
1992 Toyota Celica All-Trac - SOLD
1997 Civic EX Turbo 300whp 295tq - SOLD
2001 IS300 Auto - SOLD
2010 Subaru WRX Stage 3 328awhp - 387awtq - SOLD
2003 IS300 Pearl White 1jzgte VVTi - R154 - LSD - Tomei M8280 - 22psi - 418rwhp - 380rwtq
www.radfordracing.com

Last edited by LexusSpeed01; 12-05-2014 at 07:40 AM.
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post #96 of 126 (permalink) Old 12-09-2014, 12:42 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LexusSpeed01 View Post
What I am asking is i know you add the 3 more wires for the other 3 coils. My question is do you just unplug the igniter? Don't have to cut and splice any of those wires together?

With the new LQ9 coils there is 4 pins on each one where do you tap the rest of the wires in?

I see this diagram from the MojoPerf but don't know where to tap in for the power and what not?

3 or 4 wire coils are what's called smart coils. These have a built in ignitor and trigger. So the EMS just needs to "signal" it to fire. No other external ignitor is needed like the factory "dumb" coils.
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post #97 of 126 (permalink) Old 12-10-2014, 10:06 PM
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Maybe someone can chime in. The car is cranking now but it is like its not firing? I also have the car on battery charger was having little trouble cranking but no back fires or anything?

Here is how i have it setup currently.

I have chosen the LQ9 coils in the wizard and I have set the coil dwell at 5ms and I have tried 2.6ms.

I currently have the 1 step colder plugs and they are gapped at 26.

Here are some screenshots.


1992 Toyota Celica GT 5speed 3sgte swapped - SOLD
1992 Toyota Celica All-Trac - SOLD
1997 Civic EX Turbo 300whp 295tq - SOLD
2001 IS300 Auto - SOLD
2010 Subaru WRX Stage 3 328awhp - 387awtq - SOLD
2003 IS300 Pearl White 1jzgte VVTi - R154 - LSD - Tomei M8280 - 22psi - 418rwhp - 380rwtq
www.radfordracing.com
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post #98 of 126 (permalink) Old 12-11-2014, 06:08 AM
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Its like it's not firing or, its not firing? Easy enough to pull one to check.

Your coil setup is mostly right, but the knock sensor selections are way wrong. Coil 1-3 should be checked for knock 1 and coil 4-6 should be checked for knock 2 (in this case, sub coil 7 and 8 for coil 5 and 6)
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post #99 of 126 (permalink) Old 12-11-2014, 06:09 AM
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Also, I see you were confused as to what to do with the old igniter. What did you end up doing?
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post #100 of 126 (permalink) Old 12-11-2014, 10:47 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mitsuguy View Post
Its like it's not firing or, its not firing? Easy enough to pull one to check.

Your coil setup is mostly right, but the knock sensor selections are way wrong. Coil 1-3 should be checked for knock 1 and coil 4-6 should be checked for knock 2 (in this case, sub coil 7 and 8 for coil 5 and 6)
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Also, I see you were confused as to what to do with the old igniter. What did you end up doing?
Yep and yep.

Stat sync staying on?
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post #101 of 126 (permalink) Old 12-11-2014, 11:05 AM
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I tried it again this morning and it cranked over about 5 seconds and then I got a loud bang. Didn't crank after that scared me. I ttried crank 2-3 times then the bang. I removed old igniter and spliced the wires through for 1-3 coils. Could the knock cause this? I just hope I didn't hurt anything by cranking it.
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post #102 of 126 (permalink) Old 12-11-2014, 11:47 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LexusSpeed01 View Post
I tried it again this morning and it cranked over about 5 seconds and then I got a loud bang. Didn't crank after that scared me. I ttried crank 2-3 times then the bang. I removed old igniter and spliced the wires through for 1-3 coils. Could the knock cause this? I just hope I didn't hurt anything by cranking it.
That bang is a backfire which means she's getting fuel and spark. Your phasing is undoubtedly off.
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post #103 of 126 (permalink) Old 12-11-2014, 10:21 PM
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Alright well I changed the coil phase to what Max1.6 did and the car fired right up but it is still not right it was running like crap and misfiring sounded like.

So my question is what would be the correct phasing?

What I did was took the C1,C2,C3 from my stock igniter and connected them to T1,T2,T3 so they just pass through and it is no longer attached.

Starting from the front of the motor I have them like this

PIN B13 - C1 First Coil In Front of Engine
PIN C12 - C2 Second Coil
PIN C13 - C3 Third Coil
PIN C14 - 4th Coil
PIN A13 - 5th Coil
PIN A22 - 6th Coil

Dwell is 3.1ms and spark plug gap is 26. It starts but runs horribly and popping like misfire.
I am unsure what the coil phasing needs to be? Any help would be great.

1992 Toyota Celica GT 5speed 3sgte swapped - SOLD
1992 Toyota Celica All-Trac - SOLD
1997 Civic EX Turbo 300whp 295tq - SOLD
2001 IS300 Auto - SOLD
2010 Subaru WRX Stage 3 328awhp - 387awtq - SOLD
2003 IS300 Pearl White 1jzgte VVTi - R154 - LSD - Tomei M8280 - 22psi - 418rwhp - 380rwtq
www.radfordracing.com

Last edited by LexusSpeed01; 12-11-2014 at 10:30 PM.
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post #104 of 126 (permalink) Old 12-12-2014, 10:43 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LexusSpeed01 View Post
Alright well I changed the coil phase to what Max1.6 did and the car fired right up but it is still not right it was running like crap and misfiring sounded like.

So my question is what would be the correct phasing?

What I did was took the C1,C2,C3 from my stock igniter and connected them to T1,T2,T3 so they just pass through and it is no longer attached.

Starting from the front of the motor I have them like this

PIN B13 - C1 First Coil In Front of Engine
PIN C12 - C2 Second Coil
PIN C13 - C3 Third Coil
PIN C14 - 4th Coil
PIN A13 - 5th Coil
PIN A22 - 6th Coil

Dwell is 3.1ms and spark plug gap is 26. It starts but runs horribly and popping like misfire.
I am unsure what the coil phasing needs to be? Any help would be great.
PIN B13 - C1 This is coil 1
PIN C12 - C2 This is coil 2
PIN C13 - C3 This is coil 3
PIN C14 - 4th This is coil 4
PIN A13 - 5th This is coil 5
PIN A22 - 6th This is coil 6.

Ok. Firing order for the 2JZ is 1, 5, 3, 6, 2, 4.

What phasing do you have now?
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post #105 of 126 (permalink) Old 12-12-2014, 12:00 PM
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Phasing I have now is this

Coil 1 - Ph 12
Coil 2 - Ph 4
Coil 3 - Ph 20
Coil 4 - Ph 8
Coil 5 - Ph 16
Coil 6 - Ph 0

I am also running 1jzgte VVTI not 2jz

Last edited by LexusSpeed01; 12-12-2014 at 12:02 PM.
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