Dezod AEM V2 Wasted Spark to COP - Page 2 - Lexus IS Forum
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post #16 of 126 (permalink) Old 10-04-2013, 10:48 AM
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coils

Yeah, Sorry I forgot to put in the first post. I would be using LQ9 coils with igniter built in them.
So there will be no need for the oem igniter and the I don't have to worry about the IGF since AEM will be controlling the ignition.
Great thank you.
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post #17 of 126 (permalink) Old 10-08-2013, 10:51 AM Thread Starter
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post #18 of 126 (permalink) Old 10-09-2013, 10:09 PM
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I love my COP setup car idles alot better cold/hot starts have improved alot and the car over all is more driveable in and out of boost.

Thanks Dezod!!

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post #19 of 126 (permalink) Old 10-17-2013, 11:06 AM Thread Starter
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post #20 of 126 (permalink) Old 10-25-2013, 01:29 PM
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E85 cold starts at 30 degrees no problem with the COP setup!

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post #21 of 126 (permalink) Old 10-28-2013, 05:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leonard_is300 View Post
E85 cold starts at 30 degrees no problem with the COP setup!
What are you doing for tacho?

I just started mine today with lq9 coils and have the factory tach wired to ls7 out, but rpm shows just about double...

first I'm actually starting to look into this starting about 10 minutes ago... If I figure it out, I'll report back... I'm using a 30-6101 box though, not sure if that matters...
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post #22 of 126 (permalink) Old 10-29-2013, 08:35 PM
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Another question, what if I take the 3 channels going to the igniter, remove the igniter and wire the LQ9 coils 1-6, 2-5, 3-4 to the trigger pin?
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post #23 of 126 (permalink) Old 10-29-2013, 09:07 PM
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Another question, what if I take the 3 channels going to the igniter, remove the igniter and wire the LQ9 coils 1-6, 2-5, 3-4 to the trigger pin?
Though technically this would work, each coil will be firing twice as often as it needs to, and will be harder on the electronics... Also potentially leading to overheat... Just run the wires, its not that bad...
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post #24 of 126 (permalink) Old 10-29-2013, 09:57 PM
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i havent really worried about the tach at this point since im just breaking in my engine. thats going to be an over winter project. If your 02 to 05 the tach signal comes via the crank sensor, for 01 its via the ignitor. When you pull away the IGF signal the tach goes dead, if you can simulate that the IGF is firing the tach should theoretically work. Next time our Toyota Regional Tech is out I'll ask him to see if he can help point out some ways to make it work.

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post #25 of 126 (permalink) Old 10-29-2013, 11:53 PM
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Hey guys I ran into the no tach problem on my '01. After some research and trial and error, I came up with a combination that works.

You will need this guy. MSD tach adapter 8920



You will then wire up three of the wires that went to your stock ignitor to the tach adapter as shown in pic.



Black with white stripe ---> Red power on MSD
Brown ---> Black ground on MSD
Black Tach input ---> Purple tach output on MSD

And then finally connect the purple tach output from AEM to the white input wire on the MSD



And here is where it is located on the AEM connector



And the finally you will have to enable the tach output in the AEM tuner software and if I recall I had to play with the settings in there to get the rpms set properly.

I hope this helps
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post #26 of 126 (permalink) Old 10-31-2013, 07:49 AM Thread Starter
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You don't even need that. The tach would have to be wired into the EMS and it can derive RPMs and output a signal based upon how many teeth pass on the trigger wheel. We did this on some Scion race engines before.
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post #27 of 126 (permalink) Old 10-31-2013, 07:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Dezod Motorsports View Post
You don't even need that. The tach would have to be wired into the EMS and it can derive RPMs and output a signal based upon how many teeth pass on the trigger wheel. We did this on some Scion race engines before.
So what do you think is the best way to wire up the AEM to the factory cluster so the RPM's work. I also noticed while running the COP setup my MPG consumption gauge is inop and my fuel gauge drops in 1/4 tank increments. I dont care much about the MPG consumption gauge but the fuel tank level is somewhat important to me. Im just curious on how I can get them to work to the COP setup.

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post #28 of 126 (permalink) Old 10-31-2013, 08:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dezod Motorsports View Post
You don't even need that. The tach would have to be wired into the EMS and it can derive RPMs and output a signal based upon how many teeth pass on the trigger wheel. We did this on some Scion race engines before.
Well trust me, I didn't want to buy the MSD, but after trying it first without and even dealing with tech support at AEM directly, we could not get the tach signal accurate. It was either way too high or way too low on rpms. The tach adapter was the ONLY way I could get it to work. If you could verify that the tach adapter in not needed specifically on the IS300 that would be great. Please let me know how, bc if so, I will feel like an idiot... But this is the only way I can verify that DID for sure work for me on my '01 IS300 with your Dezod AEM v2 kit. Hope this helps.
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post #29 of 126 (permalink) Old 11-01-2013, 07:40 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leonard_is300 View Post
So what do you think is the best way to wire up the AEM to the factory cluster so the RPM's work. I also noticed while running the COP setup my MPG consumption gauge is inop and my fuel gauge drops in 1/4 tank increments. I dont care much about the MPG consumption gauge but the fuel tank level is somewhat important to me. Im just curious on how I can get them to work to the COP setup.
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Originally Posted by Pinknuts View Post
Well trust me, I didn't want to buy the MSD, but after trying it first without and even dealing with tech support at AEM directly, we could not get the tach signal accurate. It was either way too high or way too low on rpms. The tach adapter was the ONLY way I could get it to work. If you could verify that the tach adapter in not needed specifically on the IS300 that would be great. Please let me know how, bc if so, I will feel like an idiot... But this is the only way I can verify that DID for sure work for me on my '01 IS300 with your Dezod AEM v2 kit. Hope this helps.
Ok. Here is how we got the Scion Racing program to power the RPMs....

Pull stock connector where the tach signal is from Dezod jumper harness.

Locate Engine Speed Pulse wire

About to inch from the connector, capture wire in Scotch Lock.

Also feed in 18 or 20 gauge wire (about 12-18 inches) into other side of Scotch Lock.

With pliers, crimp down metal lock until it cuts into both wires and is secure.

Snap plastic connector on Scotch Lock closed.

Plug connector back into Dezod harness.

On free end of new wire, install AEM-supplied pin.

Remove connector A from back of AEM box.

Install wire and pin into A-19 for tach output.

Reinstall connector A into AEM box.

Start car and check tach functions properly.

***Note, I did this with respect to an average Joe DIY. However, I recommend NOT using Scotch Locks for any wiring as they are the root of all evil when it comes to wiring. I have had to repair numerous wiring harnesses that have been hacked up using Scotch Locks, some so bad it was cost effective just to replace the entire harness. Most of the time when Scotch Locks are installed, some of the conduction strands are broken, reducing the strength and current capacity of the circuit and sometimes causing intermittent problems. Over time, vibration can actually cause the wire you are tapping into to become completely severed . I HIGHLY recommend using proper heat shrunk insulated crimp or soldered connections.

Tach Sync
Move stock harness wire (please verify) to A19 on AEM harness.

On tabs, hidden tabs, set Tacho-Speedo output to LS7

Set Tacho M to 2 and see where it is tach reading wise. It may require some massaging up or down to get it exact.

Again, because I have not done this on the IS300, some of these settings may need to be adjusted. This is how we did it on the 2AZ.

Start car and verify tach matches engine speed cell in AEM software.
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post #30 of 126 (permalink) Old 11-01-2013, 03:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Dezod Motorsports View Post
Ok. Here is how we got the Scion Racing program to power the RPMs....

Pull stock connector where the tach signal is from Dezod jumper harness.

Locate Engine Speed Pulse wire

About to inch from the connector, capture wire in Scotch Lock.

Also feed in 18 or 20 gauge wire (about 12-18 inches) into other side of Scotch Lock.

With pliers, crimp down metal lock until it cuts into both wires and is secure.

Snap plastic connector on Scotch Lock closed.

Plug connector back into Dezod harness.

On free end of new wire, install AEM-supplied pin.

Remove connector A from back of AEM box.

Install wire and pin into A-19 for tach output.

Reinstall connector A into AEM box.

Start car and check tach functions properly.

***Note, I did this with respect to an average Joe DIY. However, I recommend NOT using Scotch Locks for any wiring as they are the root of all evil when it comes to wiring. I have had to repair numerous wiring harnesses that have been hacked up using Scotch Locks, some so bad it was cost effective just to replace the entire harness. Most of the time when Scotch Locks are installed, some of the conduction strands are broken, reducing the strength and current capacity of the circuit and sometimes causing intermittent problems. Over time, vibration can actually cause the wire you are tapping into to become completely severed . I HIGHLY recommend using proper heat shrunk insulated crimp or soldered connections.

Tach Sync
Move stock harness wire (please verify) to A19 on AEM harness.

On tabs, hidden tabs, set Tacho-Speedo output to LS7

Set Tacho M to 2 and see where it is tach reading wise. It may require some massaging up or down to get it exact.

Again, because I have not done this on the IS300, some of these settings may need to be adjusted. This is how we did it on the 2AZ.

Start car and verify tach matches engine speed cell in AEM software.
Hmmm very interesting and a lot easier then I thought. I tend to over think damn near most everything but this seems like it could work with a little finesse. If this worked on the 2AZ with a similar setup I don't see why the same idea wouldn't transition to the IS. If I didn't have a wedding tomorrow and plans with the wife tonight I would do this!!

___Go Fast or F*** It___

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