Dezod AEM EMS V2 FAQ, Service & Tech Thread - Page 2 - Lexus IS Forum
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post #16 of 193 (permalink) Old 12-16-2011, 05:00 PM
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I have a gen 1 box that I'm going to hook up soon. My mechanic asked if we can do away with the MAF? I know you said that it needs to be hooked up for the tranny shift points, but I actually did and auto to manual swap so would I still need it hooked up? I would plan on using an aem iat in place of it because I beleive the factory iat is built in to the maf. Thanks in advance.

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post #17 of 193 (permalink) Old 12-17-2011, 09:05 AM
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If you have a manual conversion on your car you can ditch the MAF. You can also ditch the stock throttle body and go to a GTE style intake also. But if you want to keep cruise control then the stock throttle body will need to stay on. Since you are using the AEM setup I would use the dedicated AEM sensors since the box is calibrated to those dedicated sensors. If you use the IAT sensor in the stock MAF unit the numbers may be slightly skewed.

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post #18 of 193 (permalink) Old 12-17-2011, 09:47 AM
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Thanks for the input Leonard. That's what I was hopping to hear. As far the the GTE manifold goes, I actually have an Aristo VVTI motor I'm building to put in the car. So that would solve my mani issue, but I have every intention of staying with the stock TB for now. Something that concerns me is, I read up on a thread here after I posted my original message that if the MAF isn't hooked up the stock TB might not function properly. Do you have any insight on this?
Cruise control is gone. When I did my auto to R154 conversion that went out the door.
As far as the IAT goes. The Dezod AEM V.1 box would get its IAT signal from the MAF. There is no flying lead on the harness to hook up an AEM IAT sensor. Not sure if the V.2 harness has a flying lead for this. What I was thinking of doing if I would ditch the MAF is to remove pin C25 which is the IAT input to the AEM from the end that connects to the engine harness and just route it with the rest of the flying leads. That way the only part of that wire that is connected is to the plug on the AEM and the other end to the IAT sensor itself. That way it doesn't use any factory sensor signal at all. Then obviously I would ground it to pin C18.
I'm not sure if I made myself clear. If anything I'll try to elaborate a little more.
The other thing and last thing is. Whether or not I would have to change any sensors over from the GE to my GTE VVTI motor besides the coolant temp sensor? I haven't heard a definitive answer to the crank/cam sensor being different or needing to be swapped in order for the AEM to have the proper signal. I sent sean05 a PM since I knew he would probably have an answer but he hasn't replied yet.

Thanks again for your help!

2001 Lexus IS300- R154 w/LSD-2JZGTE VVTI-GT3788R (In the works!)
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post #19 of 193 (permalink) Old 12-17-2011, 10:41 AM
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The MAF has no control over the throttle body as far as I know. I get what your saying about the temp sensor and it never hurts to try something! When it comes to an Aristo swap I am not sure what is swapable and what isnt since I have not done this. But if I had to make a guess I would have to say alot of the key parts are transferable between the two engine's.

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post #20 of 193 (permalink) Old 12-19-2011, 01:15 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by DC5ROY View Post
I have a gen 1 box that I'm going to hook up soon. My mechanic asked if we can do away with the MAF? I know you said that it needs to be hooked up for the tranny shift points, but I actually did and auto to manual swap so would I still need it hooked up? I would plan on using an aem iat in place of it because I beleive the factory iat is built in to the maf. Thanks in advance.
In theory you should be able to remove the MAF on the 5 speed. However, there is a possibility the stock ECU can shut down the throttle plate like it does on the autos.
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post #21 of 193 (permalink) Old 12-19-2011, 06:24 PM
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Well I disconnected the MAF to see if it would shut down the TB and it didn't =). However, it wouldn't let me rev past 3k. It would just hit a rev limiter. Would you think I'm good to go once I plug in the AEM?
And I want to clarify that the car was auto but now manual. The car is still using an auto ecu though.

2001 Lexus IS300- R154 w/LSD-2JZGTE VVTI-GT3788R (In the works!)
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post #22 of 193 (permalink) Old 12-19-2011, 07:02 PM
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If your using the stock ECU when you remove the MAF sensor it puts the car in limp mode and onyl allows for 30% throttle. Once you have the AEM in place I would think you can remove the MAF sensor all together.

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post #23 of 193 (permalink) Old 12-20-2011, 11:39 AM Thread Starter
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post #24 of 193 (permalink) Old 12-20-2011, 11:54 AM
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Did I just speak to you this morning?
As a matter of fact you did. I had posted the question last night but I figured I would just give you a call today. Thanks again by the way!

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post #25 of 193 (permalink) Old 12-20-2011, 12:29 PM Thread Starter
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As a matter of fact you did. I had posted the question last night but I figured I would just give you a call today. Thanks again by the way!
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post #26 of 193 (permalink) Old 01-15-2012, 02:46 AM
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Ran into a problem today testing my V2 EMS. It seems that the V2 reads the wrong sensor voltage for the coolant temp. With my V1, I see 0.66v and 172F in AEMpro (OBD2 reads 161F). With the V2, it reads 1.2v and 129F in AEM Tuner (OBD2 reads 122F). Oil temp reads 190F, and I have an HKS coolant temp gauge installed that shows 168F, so the V1 reading is correct.
The low coolant temp reading is causing the idle to hold around 1400-1500rpm since the stock ECU thinks the motor still needs to warm up and holds the throttle body open. The radiator fans also do not turn on since the ECU thinks the coolant temp is lower than it really is.
I checked the wiring on the V2 PnP harness, and the coolant temp wire is correct pin to pin.
Any ideas for things to check?
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post #27 of 193 (permalink) Old 01-17-2012, 08:20 AM Thread Starter
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Ran into a problem today testing my V2 EMS. It seems that the V2 reads the wrong sensor voltage for the coolant temp. With my V1, I see 0.66v and 172F in AEMpro (OBD2 reads 161F). With the V2, it reads 1.2v and 129F in AEM Tuner (OBD2 reads 122F). Oil temp reads 190F, and I have an HKS coolant temp gauge installed that shows 168F, so the V1 reading is correct.
The low coolant temp reading is causing the idle to hold around 1400-1500rpm since the stock ECU thinks the motor still needs to warm up and holds the throttle body open. The radiator fans also do not turn on since the ECU thinks the coolant temp is lower than it really is.
I checked the wiring on the V2 PnP harness, and the coolant temp wire is correct pin to pin.
Any ideas for things to check?
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post #28 of 193 (permalink) Old 01-18-2012, 07:47 PM
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Paul,
Do we need to keep the EVAP sensor connected with the AEM? I'm talking about the one that's attached to the factory air box. I know that people using a piggy back need to keep it connected because if not it will cause it to throw a CEL, but I figured it's pointless with the AEM.
Thanks

2001 Lexus IS300- R154 w/LSD-2JZGTE VVTI-GT3788R (In the works!)
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post #29 of 193 (permalink) Old 01-19-2012, 07:11 AM Thread Starter
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Paul,
Do we need to keep the EVAP sensor connected with the AEM? I'm talking about the one that's attached to the factory air box. I know that people using a piggy back need to keep it connected because if not it will cause it to throw a CEL, but I figured it's pointless with the AEM.
Thanks
I have not played with any of the EVAP stuff, so you are welcome to experiment and let me know.
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post #30 of 193 (permalink) Old 01-19-2012, 08:27 AM
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Well basically I just wanted to know if you guy's still have it connected on the turbo is300's you work on.
I just figured that if the AEM controls all the functions of the engine minus the TB and the stock ECU is controlling all the luxury functions then I really wouldn't have to worry about keeping that sensor connected along with a vacuum source to it.

If I'm not being clear enough please let me know.

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