Originally Posted by jmooney5115
Beautiful. I'm a hobby detailer as well with my Porter Cable 7424 and Sonus brand pads/polish. Do you mind sharing your process? Maybe I could learn a thing or two before my next detail.
Sure, this might be a bit picture heavy, but it should make a bit more sense.
I approach every detail individually, because of course, not all cars have the same issue. So what I do at the start, is check for existing issues, things that I might be able to remedy, and noting things that I will not be able to 100% remove (Deep scratches, dents, chips etc). I actually have a printout that I use to record all of the existing issues, its something I give to each person who I detail.
I will use a couple different jobs to display the steps as best as I can.
Checking for existing issues and general condition.
After noting all of the issues that I can, depending on the temp outside, I break out the pressure washer and two buckets with microfiber and use the one clean bucket, one dirty bucket technique, or take it to the autowash down the street, both give just about the same results. If I take it to the wash, I just give it a once over with a microfiber towel just to make sure all the soap is gone.
After Autowash. You can see the slight haze on the paint from oxydation and general road use.
After I make sure the car is dry and clean, I break out the painters tape and take my time taping off all things that a buffer could eat up. EX: Rubber trim, Badges, Headlights, Windsheild Squirter things.
This is the point where I break out the Claybar. I have a liquid clay that i use that I find very effective, less elbow grease needed for the same result, but sometimes that is not enough and I break out the good ol` clay.
Once the car is super smooth (but sometimes scratched from the condition of the clay) I break out the big guns. I use all Majestic Solutions products because they were the ones that certified me, and they are a very friendly, local business that makes all of their products in house. :: Majestic Solutions ::
Depending on the condition of the car, I will break out the heavy duty cutting compounds and the heavy foam or wool pad, or if its less bad, I go for a more mild pad and compound. I use the standard technique of working in the space directly in front of you and overlap the area you just hit. When the heat is applied correctly, there is almost a smoothing effect in the paint, so you are essentially flattening out the paint like you would a blanket by smoothing it over, not cutting down into it.
This part usually takes the majority of the time of the job, making sure to work the scratches out safely. You can go from the heavy cut, to the mild cut, to the polish, to the wax, similar to how to get things smooth when sanding.
After the heavy buffing is done, I break out the hand held 6" dual action buffer to apply the wax. Majestic has a great assortment of waxes, some for darker colors, some for lighter colors. I love their Premium wax, as it has a Teflon sealer in it and it creates the strongest and most brilliant shine on all colors.
After the wax is applied and enough time has been left for it to bond and set, I remove the tape and do touch ups where needed with a small brush.
For most people, this is what they wanted and are super happy. But I usually like to go an extra step and clean up their engine bay too (a favorite area of mine). I like to use the Majestic spray detailer called Quick Detail here, as well as a brush and a microfiber to get in all the small holes.
This is usually all my usual customers need, as they tend to keep the interiors nice and clean. (all my customers are car guys/girls like myself)
So. Sorry for the pic spam, but there's the general process.
I am not sure I have posted this before, But heres a link to all of my projects so far.
DetailedCars pictures by FoxgloveFur - Photobucket