DIY: 2009 Lexus IS 250 RWD - OIL & FILTER CHANGE - my.IS - Lexus IS Forum
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Old 06-29-2011, 12:30 PM   #1 (permalink)
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DIY: 2009 Lexus IS 250 RWD - OIL & FILTER CHANGE

* * * USE AT YOUR OWN RISK * * *
Quote:
"I'm not a Mechanic or Auto Body Specialist. I sit in-front of my computer all day at work. That being said; If I can do this Step-By-Step DIY, so can you!" . . . JD






RECOMMENDED MATERIALS:
* Automotive Work Gloves or Disposable Gloves (Stanley HandHelpers Disposable vinyl gloves @ Home Depot)
* Safety Glasses (for Eye Protection @ Canadian Tire)
* All-purpose Funnel with Handle, 12-in (Canadian Tire)
* Oil Drain Pan + extra container-Filter Oil (Canadian Tire)
* Oil Filter Element Kit Part #:04152-YZZA3 (from DVN Parts)
* 7 qt. of API SL SAE 5W-30 (I used Royal Purple)
Quote:
Owner's Manual Indicates: 6.2 qt.-without Filter & 6.6 qt.-with * Filter Change
OPTIONAL:
* Old Carpet Runner or Old Exercise Mat (for back support)
* Old Newspapers (for Oil Spill)




RECOMMENDED TOOLS:
* Jack (I used Michelin 3-ton Speedy Lift Jack @ Canadian Tire)
* 2 x 3-Ton Axle Stands (Walmart)
* 4 x Wheel Chocks (Walmart)
* Socket Wrench with 14mm Socket (Mastercraft @ Canadian Tire)
* Socket Wrench with 10mm Socket (Mastercraft @ Canadian Tire)
* Toyota Oil Filter Wrench 64mm/14 flute (via Ebay Motors)
OPTIONAL:
* In-Car Scissors Jack (Applies to Lowered Cars)


~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~



STEP 1
1.1) Wear appropriate "Oil Change-Attire" for this Job
1.2) Press Engine START

Make note of the ODOMETER Reading (This will help you determine your next Oil Change/Interval)




STEP 2
Hoist the vehicle by using Lift Jack. I used the In-Car Scissors Jack (applies to lowered Set-up) first to get the "3-ton Speedy Lift Jack" underneat the car.

Note: Front/Center Jack Point





STEP 3
Place the "3-Ton Axle Stands" to the Driver & Passenger Front/Side Jack Points




STEP 4
Place the "Wheel Chocks" to the Rear Tires




STEP 5
Place an "Old Carpet Runner" underneath the vehicle to support your back




STEP 6
Pull the hood release lever.

Remove the oil filler cap by turning it counterclockwise.




STEP 7
Prepare 14mm Socket Wrench, Funnel & Oil Drain Pan





STEP 8
Locate Oil Drain Plug/Bolt underneath vehicle

Position your "Oil Drain Pan" below the drain plug. Use 14mm socket wrench to loosen and remove drain plug/bolt. Let the oil drain into the oil reservoir. (Don't forget to wear disposable gloves & Safety Glasses in this step)

Place some old newspaper below the Oil Drain Pan as well - - - for possible oil spill




STEP 9
OIL FILTER: Prepare 10mm Socket Wrench

Locate Oil Filter Plastic Cover

Use 10mm Socket Wrench to loosen 3 bolts





STEP 10
Prepare Toyota Oil Filter Wrench & Extra container for leftover Oil from Filter Housing

Loosen Oil Filter Cap/Cover

Let it fully drain . . . (Extra Container)




STEP 11
This is the perfect opportunity to clean the Oil Filter Housing (Inside & Out)





STEP 12
Remove Oil Filter Housing "O-Ring"

more cleaning . . .




STEP 13
Use disposable small container for easy oil application/lubrication to Oil Filter Housing






STEP 14
Oil Filter Element Kit (04152-YZZA3)

Open Box and check all items (1xFilter Element, 1xO-Ring, 1xDrain Plug/Bolt Gasket)




STEP 15
Apply Filter Element to Housing




STEP 16
Clean then Lubricate Drain Plug/Bolt




STEP 17
Clean excess oil from Housing

More cleaning . . .

. . . at this point, you're ready to 1) re-plug the Oil Drain Plug/Bolt; then 2) put the Oil Filter Housing (with Filter Element IN) back on.



STEP 18
Add 6.5 quarts of your favorite 5W-30 Synthetic Motor Oil (I used Royal Purple)
Quote:
Owner's Manual Indicates: 6.2 qt.-without Filter & 6.6 qt.-with Filter Change




STEP 19
a) Start the Car and Check underneath the car for the last time. Ensure no leak whatsoever.

b) Check Oil Dip Stick.




STEP 20
Ensure that the Oil Level is within pointing arrow (close to MAX Level)



Congratulations! You just completed your Lexus Oil Change
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Old 06-29-2011, 12:54 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Excellent tutorial! Great job with the details and great pics. Sure to help others
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Old 06-29-2011, 05:56 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Awesome work! Have some rep.

IMO...



Step 19

Bring car up to about 2000 RPM and hold for about 15 seconds to pressure test the filter seal - if it is not tight enough or a split gasket, the pressure should reveal a weakness.

Step 21

Dispose of used oil and filter properly. Most quick lube oil change places will accept this for free as well as Cnd Tire or your local municipal recycling center.

Kitty litter works better than newspaper in sucking up used oil
18ft lbs to tighten the oil filter cap
30ft lbs on the drain plug - this is important as using a socket on the drain plug to tighten is not recommended, as you can easily exceed the torque spec. A crescent wrench is preferred.


Oil Change Reset Procedure

1. Switch the display to the odometer when the engine is running.
2. Turn the "ENGINE START STOP" switch OFF.
3. While pressing the trip meter reset button, set the "ENGINE START STOP" switch to the "IGNITION ON" mode(do not start the engine). Continue to press and hold the button until the trip meter displays 000000.

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Old 06-29-2011, 06:17 PM   #4 (permalink)
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GREAT WRITE UP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Digger I have to dis-agree with you for revving the car. Modern day car's oil filter gaskets are pretty good as long the installer tightens it properly. By revving the car after a oil change can damage bearings. I do oil changes everyday and I never rev the car right after a oil change. I let it run then shut it off.
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Old 06-29-2011, 06:45 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I as well let it run.

I highly recommend the OEM Toyota Filter cup ($40 value) if you're gonna do these yourself.

The OEM Aluminum housing can be very tricky to take off when over torqued (Most dealerships do this) The OEM Filter tool is a direct fit. No free play what so ever. Best $40 Ive spent as a Toyota Apprentice.
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Old 06-29-2011, 06:53 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ricky_87 View Post
GREAT WRITE UP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Digger I have to dis-agree with you for revving the car. Modern day car's oil filter gaskets are pretty good as long the installer tightens it properly.
That's the whole point...not everyone is an expert at tightening these or seating the "O" ring properly, and revving the engine to 2K is not going to damage the bearings. Its all about best practices.

PS.....I do 1.5 Million oil changes a year.


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Old 06-29-2011, 06:55 PM   #7 (permalink)
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O ya. DONT FUCK UP THE O RING. In for Lawls when someone blows a motor cuz they fked it up.
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Old 06-29-2011, 07:20 PM   #8 (permalink)
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This is a great write-up, unfortunately, I would never ever TRY. I'm such f*ck up, I'm sure to screw it up, blow my engine and wonder wtf did I just do!

I'm changing oil (non synthetic) at about every 5000km and nihon does it for me for about $32, so it is a small price to pay when you're as useless as I am.
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Old 06-30-2011, 02:26 AM   #9 (permalink)
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WOW , not everyday you see such a detailed picture laden post , my hats off too you for your attention to detail . I hope people actually search to find this before asking " how do i do an oil change " .

Ricky I would have to lean to diggers side that 2000 rpm is not going to do anything bad , if anything it is the best time for it to leak while you are looking at it . That seal is so simple but so easy to split by getting it caught on a thread and split . I love the old school metal filter , twist and its over and done.
Any modern car raises oil pressure to pick up from the sump to maximum pressures immediately at start up to keep from any dry start conditions . So damage to any bearing which will not be excessively heat soaked (think turbo ) and is not dry from a lack of lube (as it is fresh oil being pumped into the channels of the bearings ) will NEVER cause crank or any load bearing damage .
It maybe you read 2000 rpm and thought it was revving the engine to redline but 2000 is nothing for load , the pump , heat or any other part of the engine , fresh oil or even no oil for 15 seconds .

Besides i got a place running a special $25 for oil , OEM filter , disposal and taxes for $25 in Mississauga . Can't beat that , so why would i want to do it myself anymore . I would rather micro manage from the sides . lol
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Old 06-30-2011, 08:02 AM   #10 (permalink)
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another great DIY thread
very specific, very detailed, very good pictures...just amazing
+REPPSS
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Old 07-07-2011, 12:34 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Wow JD, great write up! Don't think I'll ever change my own oil but good to know this is here if I ever do decide to.
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Old 07-07-2011, 07:42 PM   #12 (permalink)
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great write up JD, very detailed!
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Old 07-08-2011, 06:58 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Very nice write up! +rep

Safety remarks: you should put the wheel chocks first and then lift the car up (rather than lift then chock) - this is so the car does not roll or move while you are lifting it. After reaching the desired height, the car should then be lowered onto the stands and jack removed - this is in case the jack collapses and sometimes when it does it may not drop straight down onto stands that are loosely placed under the car (especially important for garages that have a slight slope/grade). I've seen cars swing on the jack before dropping sideways and away from the stand...

And another word of caution: do not place the jack on the oil pan...

Again, awesome write up
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Old 05-09-2012, 09:59 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Snap-on tools makes a nice screw in funnel,so you don't have to hold the funnel while
pouring oil in.
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Old 05-09-2012, 01:29 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by importman View Post
Snap-on tools makes a nice screw in funnel,so you don't have to hold the funnel while
pouring oil in.
Agree. I actually got this last week

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