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Old 08-23-2012, 05:45 PM   #16 (permalink)
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^^Exactly. I would get a new radiator cap and the kit for your reservoir in my post above. If coolant rises too high, it needs to expel out of the top. If you look in the Sewell image you'll see a breather hose that comes from the res cap, attaches to the rad fans and points downward. I would do this asap because you are trapping coolant pressure inside the whole coolant system.

The tubing coming from the rad cap should connect to the bottom of the reservoir. Once you get the breather right, you should be ok. A radiator cap opens at around 176*F i believe so it is worth it to replace that as well.
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Old 08-23-2012, 05:49 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Old 08-23-2012, 05:52 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by jasonm4444 View Post
^^Exactly. I would get a new radiator cap and the kit for your reservoir in my post above. If coolant rises too high, it needs to expel out of the top. If you look in the Sewell image you'll see a breather hose that comes from the res cap, attaches to the rad fans and points downward. I would do this asap because you are trapping coolant pressure inside the whole coolant system.

The tubing coming from the rad cap should connect to the bottom of the reservoir. Once you get the breather right, you should be ok. A radiator cap opens at around 176*F i believe so it is worth it to replace that as well.
Okay so when you said that I'm trapping coolant pressure inside my coolant system, this gave me a red flag. My car has always made this gurgling noise when I start up my engine like there is air somewhere inside the cooling system. Related to this some how? I hear the noise sitting inside my car and comes from around the center of the car.
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Old 08-23-2012, 06:02 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by AznHmongLor View Post
Okay so when you said that I'm trapping coolant pressure inside my coolant system, this gave me a red flag. My car has always made this gurgling noise when I start up my engine like there is air somewhere inside the cooling system. Related to this some how? I hear the noise sitting inside my car and comes from around the center of the car.
The gurgling noise is a result of air trapped in the coolant system. That cap is garbage because it provides little escape for coolant. Get the correct cap that has a nipple on the top like in my pic. The gurgling is actually pretty common and can happen the first time the reservoir tank runs dry. That can be easily purged once the system is correct.

I would replace the rad cap as well to make sure it's not opening prematurely(which may be why you're losing coolant). Make sure it's rated correctly, that's very important. OEM spec says the cap should open and allow coolant to flow to the reservoir when pressure reaches 13.5-17.8 psi or 93-123 kPa.
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Old 08-23-2012, 06:02 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AznHmongLor View Post
Okay so when you said that I'm trapping coolant pressure inside my coolant system, this gave me a red flag. My car has always made this gurgling noise when I start up my engine like there is air somewhere inside the cooling system. Related to this some how? I hear the noise sitting inside my car and comes from around the center of the car.
Yes, air in the system due to loss of coolant from the reservoir.

Is the car running hot? Temp gauge should not be past halfway. When the car is cold, take the radiator cap off. Coolant should be just at the bottom of the filler neck. If it is low, air might enter the system.
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Old 08-23-2012, 06:18 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Even though your reservoir cap does have an escape and may allow some air/coolant pressure out, it's not the right type. It may be part of the reason why coolant is expelling out the lid, but if the reservoir is only filled halfway, it should never reach the top unless certain conditions exist....

-the engine is overheating possibly due to a stuck thermostat or the radiator fans never come on and the coolant temperature gauge rises above halfway(it should always remain horizontal or midline). The fans only come on when the gauge reads above halfway and shut off when it drops alittle.

-The rad cap is allowing coolant to expel prematurely.
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Old 08-23-2012, 06:29 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jasonm4444 View Post
Even though your reservoir cap does have an escape and may allow some air/coolant pressure out, it's not the right type. It may be part of the reason why coolant is expelling out the lid, but if the reservoir is only filled halfway, it should never reach the top unless certain conditions exist....

-the engine is overheating possibly due to a stuck thermostat or the radiator fans never come on and the coolant temperature gauge rises above halfway(it should always remain horizontal or midline). The fans only come on when the gauge reads above halfway and shut off when it drops alittle.

-The rad cap is allowing coolant to expel prematurely.
Car never overheats, fans are working properly, took it to a Lexus shop and got that settled. Fans use to not work but I can confirm that they do work properly now in keeping the car cool. Not sure if the fans are working with the coolant temps. So my best bet is to get the kit, will the caps fit this rad and reservoir? Not even sure if they're OEM.
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Old 08-23-2012, 06:35 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by AznHmongLor View Post
Car never overheats, fans are working properly, took it to a Lexus shop and got that settled. Fans use to not work but I can confirm that they do work properly now in keeping the car cool. Not sure if the fans are working with the coolant temps. So my best bet is to get the kit, will the caps fit this rad and reservoir? Not even sure if they're OEM.
Yes, i would get new caps for the rad and res as well as the proper tubing so you don't get coolant all over the bay. It appears you have an OEM rad and reservoir, if so, they should fit with no problem. I see the rating on the cap says 16 lbs, but the spring may be worn out. Clean up the dried up coolant at the lower rad hose. If the hose is cracked or leaking after replacing the caps, i would replace the lower hose and clamps as well. Keep an eye on it. Monitor your coolant level when the car has sat overnight. The level in the reservoir should ALWAYS return to the same level. I actually marked the back of the reservoir where you can see the level with a piece of tape so i know no coolant is being consumed or leaking.
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Old 08-23-2012, 06:52 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Thanks Jason, I'll report back. Probably going to give Sewell a call tomorrow and order caps and breather regardless. Thanks! $20 or so dollars will probably save me sleepless nights in the future LOL.
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Old 08-23-2012, 07:16 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Sounds like a plan. The part number on the first page is the whole assembly and consists of the hoses, clamps, and reservoir cap.
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Old 08-24-2012, 11:29 AM   #26 (permalink)
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Hey currently on my list I have breather hose and reserve tank cap sub-assembly. I see the rad cap but it says MTM for manual tranny, mines auto does it matter? code is 16401 for rad cap.

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Old 08-24-2012, 11:55 AM   #27 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by AznHmongLor View Post
Hey currently on my list I have breather hose and reserve tank cap sub-assembly. I see the rad cap but it says MTM for manual tranny, mines auto does it matter? code is 16401 for rad cap.
That cap is the right one, it's universal. That's one thing i don't like about Sewell, they list a lot of parts MTM when it's both auto and manual. Some parts are MTM only, obviously.
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Old 08-24-2012, 05:03 PM   #28 (permalink)
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Just ordered, looks right for now Jason? or anyone out there if you're keeping up with this thread lol.
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Old 08-24-2012, 05:08 PM   #29 (permalink)
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^Parts order slip looks good to me.

I believe item-(1640570130 RESERVE TANK CAP SUB-ASSEMBLY, NO.1) comes with the breather hose according to the diagram though. Meaning it looks like the assembly (part 16471) comes with the breather hose(part 16472). Not 100% positive, but that's what it appears. The breather hose is the one that attaches to the reservoir cap.
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Old 08-24-2012, 05:11 PM   #30 (permalink)
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Yes...
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