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Old 11-09-2009, 08:43 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Aftermarket O2 sensor vs OEM

I need to replace my B1S2 sensor and I am leaning towards the more affordable option, an aftermarket one. Are the ones on this site any good? Ive been told by several mechanics that aftermarket ones are unreliable but this is the way I figured it.

Aftermarket sensor ($50) plus installation ($30) = $80
OEM sensor ($170) plus installation ($30) = $200

I think even if it lasts half as long as the OEM one, the aftermarket sensor would be worth it. What do you guys think I should do?

*Newb question. Do I have to order specifically a B1S2 sensor or are they compatible with all banks and sensor locations?
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Old 11-10-2009, 07:28 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Read this thread and search for many others.

Oxygen Sensors - FAQ

I recommend not going with the generic as our O2 sensors are finicky.
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Old 11-10-2009, 07:31 AM   #3 (permalink)
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its easier and more cost effective to just delete the secondary o2 sensors.

Product Review: Token Solutions o2 / heater simulator delete.
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Old 11-12-2009, 05:07 PM   #4 (permalink)
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the o2 sensors are 4 different part numbers for each sensor on the car. and yes they are specific. the ecu is programmed to read only oem, therefore if you buy aftermarket, it wont last you one day. yes you have to get them from the dealer and no you dont have to pay for installation. guy a o2 sensor socket, and dot it yourself. that will save you the money, or you could grab a 7/8 wrench that wont open up on you easily, and do it that way.

before you post something like this again, i suggest you search a bit. there are tons of threads about this and they all say the same thing. search. surprised that you didnt get torn a new one yet...

good luck
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Old 11-12-2009, 10:06 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I used NGK O2 sensors instead of Denso and they've been working fine. They're also cheaper than Denso
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Old 11-13-2009, 07:18 AM   #6 (permalink)
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I got new Denso ones from some closeout place for like $38 each because I got 4. I soldered and 2x heatshrink tubing, and they have been fine for 30k so far. (Besides the 1-2 and 2-2 which I removed for the TokenSolutions PnP O2 sim).
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Old 11-13-2009, 09:26 AM   #7 (permalink)
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a buddy of mine just used a universal one from auto zone and its been working fine.
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Old 11-13-2009, 09:28 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chrisridebike8 View Post
a buddy of mine just used a universal one from auto zone and its been working fine.
Ya, they're just O2 sensors. Pretty low-tech, and not much to them.
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Old 11-13-2009, 11:34 AM   #9 (permalink)
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you are very wrong. they are not low teck. here is the thing. the ecu is designed to read a specific reading from a specific sensor. if you put a different sensor in there, it could be sending false signals to the ecu which in turn could cause engine damage. its definately not in my best interest to use a 50 dollar sensor versus the right one to save 100 bucks when it would cost me another 5 grand or so to redo my motor when it grenades due to a cheap one... just my 2 cents. do whatever you want. and if/when it goes bad, or you engine has some type of issue, let us all know... curious to see it.
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Old 11-13-2009, 12:09 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RIALTO MIKE View Post
you are very wrong. they are not low teck. here is the thing. the ecu is designed to read a specific reading from a specific sensor. if you put a different sensor in there, it could be sending false signals to the ecu which in turn could cause engine damage. its definately not in my best interest to use a 50 dollar sensor versus the right one to save 100 bucks when it would cost me another 5 grand or so to redo my motor when it grenades due to a cheap one... just my 2 cents. do whatever you want. and if/when it goes bad, or you engine has some type of issue, let us all know... curious to see it.
I'm not saying you're wrong, I just meant the actual sensors are pretty low-tech. They're just a heater and a simple sensor that only outputs a single volt max typically. Yes the computer reads it and does important things with it, but that's mainly the upstream sensors' job, and that's the computer's complexity, not the sensor.

My engine has 195k on it, and about 2000 ago i rebuilt the head (la couple leaky valve seals). Looked totally clean inside. And I've had no cats and no rear O2 sensors for like 10k since the exhaust. The forward O2s read the actual engine output, then O2 sims tell the computer "the cats are doing their job" by way of the rear O2 signals.

Even if you had no sensors, the computer would just fault into running itself without all the bells and whistles (important sensor inputs).

My only point was that oxygen sensors themselves are pretty standard and low-tech. The main thing that makes them "vehicle specific" is the type of connector and length of wire attached... The actual sensor is pretty much the same.
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