Urgent! EMU help GTE/550cc [VIDEO inside] - Page 2 - my.IS - Lexus IS Forum
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Old 03-11-2011, 09:03 PM   #16 (permalink)
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are you spliced into the OEM IS300 ecu? I have a few base maps that I can send you. not sure how well they will work but its worth a try.
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Old 03-11-2011, 09:09 PM   #17 (permalink)
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you sure you have the proper injector resistors wired into the positive side of the injector clips
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Old 03-12-2011, 08:17 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Yes, the resistors are wired correctly - and I believe they are wired into the negative anyway, not the positive as per everyones instructions on the SupraForums. It still affects the resistance going of the circuit, dropping it down to 2-3ohms. This is confirmed by the new idle the car is at least doing healthily.

The car idles a lot smoother now, but around 1600 - my wideband sits between 12s and 14s at idle. If anyone could send me a basemap, mike.autooptics@gmail.com


I'm gonna try the 3UZ setting, but I believe that was for older versions of EMU. Now they have paramaters for the 2JVVTI. Ugh, if this keeps giving me trouble, I'm going to have to rent a truck/trailer and pray that Boost Logic can sort it out Monday.

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Old 03-12-2011, 10:59 AM   #19 (permalink)
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On the vehicle tab, try setting RPM signal to crank angle. That is the setting I have seen on almost all basemaps posted on this site.
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Old 03-13-2011, 07:22 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Man, I'm having throttle issues as well, horrible
Idle, no throttle response at all. Except I'm running a f10x
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Old 03-13-2011, 08:29 AM   #21 (permalink)
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Listen, you MUST select the 3UZ-FE engine to get it work. The 2JZGTE don't work at all! I ran the EMU for three years with that setup. And the jumper 8 in the EMU must be pined for 12V ingnition not 5V other than that, all should be ok and running if your Fuel pressure is ok and your ignition coils correctly wired.

Hope that help!
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Old 03-14-2011, 03:22 PM   #22 (permalink)
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I use the 3UZ-FE setting also, though a newly created from Greddy GTE VVTi should be good too... IMO 10ohm is pushing it, you could try something as low as 6.8ohms, if not slightly lower. The key is not to bring overall injector resistance back to a high impedance level, just high enough to prevent the driver's from frying. Too much resistance and their opening and lag times will be too funky to control effectively.
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