Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Edmonton,Alberta, Canada
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Hey everyone, I put in a W58 transmission into my car as a temporary solution until I can gather all my parts for my future transmission swap. Its either going to be the R154 or something crazy and unique.. Who knows..
But anyway, here it goes.. This transmission came out of a 1992 Lexus SC300 with an alleged 63,000 miles on it. I dont know how much truth that has, but it doesnt matter, it works for now.
Anyway, I will tell you about the tranmission first, then get into what is needed to do the swap successfully so you dont have to take it down again. I did this on my garage floor with 4 jackstands. The transmission is 4 fold better than the stock W55 5speed. Its more stable, the gears are more quiet and feel tons more solid when driving. The stock trans would shake and vibrate when being pushed. For example, if i was flooring it in 2nd gear, my shifter would start the rock side to side and make noise. The W58 is rock solid in this manner. It keeps its composure much better under loads. Based on other's experiences, DO NOT push this trans in 5th gear, and I can see why. 5th is the overdrive gear and its long and it will strain this thing like there is no tomorrow.
Gearing.... Well, the gears are much talled than the w55. My 2nd gear goes to 68 MPH. THis was confirmed with having a stock IS drive next to me at various speeds. At 50 MPH on an accurate speedometer, my car reads 44. The accuracy seems to become less as the speed increases. 1st gear is taller, but i still spin my tires nontheless. 2nd gear pulls extremely well and is ok for turbo, but in a way I wish the gears werent this long and would rather have a higher revving motor. Thats my preference though. So, to you 6 speed folks, I think you should maybe consider keeping your stock rear end, and rebuilding your head for an 8k redline.
3rd gear on the W55 is better in my opinion. It was the power gear and the car hauled ass. It does the same in the W58, but not as much. 4th havent done much testing, but its the same as its 1:1, so it cant be any different. 5th, is long... You will most definetely get better gas mileage with this gearing. At 70+ MPH the Tach is well under 3k RPMS.
Now... what to do to put this sucker in....
Things you must retain from your stock transmission:
1) Stock Bellhousing
2) Tailshaft and shift lever selector
3) Stock shifter
4) Stock lower trans mount
What tools will you need:
1) AIR TOOLS MAN!!!!
2) Permatex The Right Stuff gasket material for sealing the tailshaft
3) White out, or the service manual so you can line up the driveshaft for proper balance. The white out is used to create matchmarks.
4) Various sockets, impact sockets, Long 36 inch extension to access the 2 TOP bellhousing nuts. These are very easy to get out if you have a long extension..
5)3 floor jacks, 4 or more jackstands, and a peice of 2x4
Now... the trans is a BIATCH to get out if you do it the way everyone else does it... I tried something new... Place a jack and 2x4 under the front Subframe cross member. Unbolt the 4 subframe bolts (17MM). Lower this member about 2 inches or so. The trans should simply pop out without any difficulty at this point.
To remove all the bellhousing bolts, you must first dismantle the first half of the driveshaft. You dont need to remove it from the rear differential, waste of time. Then remove the 3rd Engine mount which is holding up the tailshaft of the trans. Once remove, the engine and trans will tilt down giving you some clearance to get an extension in there. Remove all the nuts. Some are 14MM, some are 17MM. The starter bolts are the most difficult to remove.
Remove the Red slave cylinder off the transmission as it gets in the way.
Now the transmission should come right out. Take about 5 minutes of finessing to get it out, but it coems out.
Now that you got that fucker out.. Dismantle the clutch throwout bearing and fork. THen remove the bellhousing nuts. All are 14MM. Use a rubber mallet and slightly start tapping the bellhousin till it pops off. THere is a guide pin in the bellhousing, so dont hit it to hard, or you will crack the metal.
Now, remove your Tail shaft... MAKE SURE BOTH TRANSMISSIONS ARE IN NEUTRAL!!! All the tailshaft bolts are 14mm as well. once out, you have to use a chisel and find a spot to hit the chisel in as its held on with gasket material. Once you get it out, remove the gasket material with a gasket scraper and clean mating surface well, as you dont want leaks....
The W58 is easy to take apart... Our w55 is more involved. You must removed the 6 bolts at the top of the tail shaft that hold your shifter bolts into. Once you get access into there, you will see a 12MM nut that is bolted into a shaft. Remove this and the 2 24MM nuts on the SIDE rear of the tailshaft... Now the entire tailshaft should come apart. Pull up gently so you dont bend any shift forks.
Place your old parts onto the W58 transmission. stick your stock shifter in and make sure you aligned everything properly and you are getting access to ALL your gears.
Now... put your transmission back in.. It takes about 20 minutes of finessing with 3 people doing this. A jack must be place at the front of the trans to help push it up. It must go in at an angle with the rear tilted down, or you wont get enough clearance. Once you get the input shaft to clear your clutch pressure plate forks, you will need someone to rotate the crank very slowly enough so the spline pops into the crankshaft. Once you get her in, go ahead and place jackstand at the end of the trans and make sure the front is support and start bolting the transmission back up... Put everything back in order as you took it apart.....
Here is the proper order so you do it effeciently for taking things apart:
1)Remove midpipe exhaust underneath
2)Remove lower trans brace (3rd engine mount)
3)Remove front half of propeller shaft
4)Undo subframe bolts. (you also must remove the front suspension brace, its easy)
5)Remove trans bolts.
Anyway, hope this helps... I will keep you updated on this transmission as I will probably be running this for at least a month or so. Hopefully it wont pop on me.
In my opinion, its a decent transmission, but it should in NO WAY be considered as a permanent solution. If you are a low powered IS300, this will work for you just fine, just dont tear it up in 5th.
Thanks guys: The main thing I was looking for. 430-460 tq with the magic clutch setup - thanks malek!...Looks like the swap would be worthwhile.
300iss - of course I'm turning up the boost
I think there's just 3 items needed...W58 slave cylinder, clutch fork...and....???
This is exactly the info I was looking for thanks teckis3oo. I could probably sell the W55 and buy a w58 even trade...easy. Or just keep the W55 around. Just in case . Malek: what is the name of that friction modifier you run? Can I keep my B&M short shifter?
................. Can I keep my B&M short shifter?
Ok, My clutch is a spec stage 3. Thought I could use it but I think I read somewhere it may be a 6 puck (whatever that means?) which means I would need a new clutch.
New clutch + tranny swap = starting to add up to the cost of an R-154 swap
Would this clutch work with r-154?....nope because of the 1Jz bellhousing. Different clutch all together right?
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