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Old 09-26-2008, 07:34 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Jumping TPS sensor (problems solved)

Read through some threads on the TPS, and my symptoms are those of limp mode. Push the pedal all the way down but no WOT, or only able to get to 3000 rpm. Also, when the tunner reads the position of the TPS it shows it jumping around from 13-38. I hadn't seen anyone post anything about a "jumping" TPS.

He has tested the sensor and its still good, so its not that.

Where I'm really still confused is how to actually solve the problem, because some of the TPS threads actually ended up being other problems. So I got a little lost.
Is the solution to adjust the sensor using the two set screws, or is there more to it than that?

Thanks
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Last edited by crow2004; 11-18-2008 at 10:58 AM.
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Old 09-26-2008, 09:50 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Tuner just sent me the codes he pulled out the car...

P0016
Crankshaft Position - Camshaft Position Corelation
P0122
Throttle/Pedal position - Switch A circuit Low Input
P0134
o2 sensor circuit No activity detected - Bank1 sensor 1
P0154
o2 sensor circuit No activity detected - Bank2 sensor 1
P0222
Throttle/Pedal position - Switch B circuit Low Input
P2135
Throttle/Pedal position - A/B voltage Correlation

I haven't had time to research them yet, but it might tip someone off to the source of the problems
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Old 09-26-2008, 10:14 AM   #3 (permalink)
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i get the p0122 every now and again, and the p2135 i just got rid of.

check your wiring, when i went back and re- did the wires for the throttle and replaces the baked wires over the turbo the p2135 went away.

the o2 sensor codes are from you having an unplugged o2 sensor, plug those back in and you might find your tps goes back to normal.
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Old 09-26-2008, 10:23 AM   #4 (permalink)
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thanks, I'll get them to check the wiring then.

I knew the O2 sensors would throw a code, sense they are just hanging in the car (as per SRT's instructions) however, there was some wiring changes pertaining to them so I'll check that too.
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Old 09-26-2008, 01:29 PM   #5 (permalink)
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This evening we are going to take some of the advice here and check the stuff out. As far as the wires that were coming from the haltech to the main harness, all looked to be in order and the soldering was not cracked in any of them.

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Old 09-26-2008, 01:49 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I'd suggest the following:

1. Check the throttle body wires and making sure they're not burnt.
2. Check the set screw, if it was changed you can experience the limp mode from it.
3. Check the TPS sensor at idle, it should be around .6 to .7 volts. If it's not then loosen the TPS sensor and lower or increase the voltage to around .65 volts.
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Old 10-07-2008, 10:50 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Thanks for all the suggestions. Looked over carefully all the wires and they seem to be in order. Also checked all the fuses and all are good as well.

I have installed the new TPS in there, but now there is a communication issue with the laptop to the F10X. We have tried several thing to connect but no dice. I am sending the F10X back to Haltech to see if they can verify and let me know if there is something wrong with the communication protocol.

So far this IS300 is beating us, but we are not giving up on it.

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Old 10-22-2008, 01:59 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Ended up getting a new TPS sensor, never tested it though because several other problems/delays poped up...

1) Com chip in the Haltech went bad, sent off, fixed
2) Battery was dead, charged
3) Now that everything is back and ready to try again both the tach in the dash and through the Haltech show nothing

They have checked sensors and wiring again and haven't found any problems.
Any ideas?
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Old 10-27-2008, 09:37 AM   #9 (permalink)
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finally got it running right

we loaded up the original map and the car cranked up and idled perfectly. The next big hurdle was the TPS and what it would do. As we thought it would do, the minute the accelerator was stabbed, the car would bog and die. We then tried easing into the accelerator and the car stumbled all the way through till 3k RPM. Once 3k rpm was past then car would rev like a regular car with no stumbling or hesitation.

We then remembered a setting on the haltech about the fuel pump. Coincidentally enough, there were three columns on the adjustment of fuel pump, 500rpm/1500rpm/3000rpm. Once we adjusted these, the headache and the frustration ended, for now. The car would rev like a regular car from idle. There was no need to slowly accelerate from idle to 3k rpm. We could stab it and not only would the car respond but it would also stay on after a free rev. Now that we've sorted out this issue we're gonna start tuning the car on the rollers.

Hopefully we'll get this car back to the customer's hands shortly if there are no more problems.
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Old 10-27-2008, 03:14 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Alberto,
Let me know if you need to look at my car to cross check some of the wiring or voltage. I have some pin-out tables for you if you need them.
Roberto
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Old 10-30-2008, 07:31 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by isFAST View Post
Alberto,
Let me know if you need to look at my car to cross check some of the wiring or voltage. I have some pin-out tables for you if you need them.
Roberto
I'll definitely hit you up to cross check anything. at the moment its running nice. just have to tune out the fuel. PM me your number, bro. Thanks.

Jay
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Old 11-17-2008, 02:27 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Customer took the car to Lexus, they tackled some issues.
Brake job
Told him it was off a degree or was it a tooth, I think you told me a tooth, but in many cars being off a tooth would mean the difference in starting very erratic and not even starting at all. Well went it left to go to lexus it was starting and idleing and even driving on the dyno fine.

Well we got it back and we just had to readjust the TPS again vs the F10x.

Car was dialed in once again on the dyno. 2 sweeps where done in boost land and then we took it to the street that night to confirm the numbers (AFR) on the dyno. The boost was hitting okay, but I am sure with a little more practice on the settings and or finding a possible leak we can get it to spool much faster.

Apart from that every once in a while the o2 sensor CEL lights come on once again, which can be a PITA for every day driving. In any case the car drives fine and it pulls very hard once boost is all in.

Thanks again for everyone's suggestions and help in this forum.

Alberto
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Old 11-17-2008, 04:26 PM   #13 (permalink)
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wut haltech are u running?
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Old 11-17-2008, 09:40 PM   #14 (permalink)
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^F10X^

Lexus tech said it was one "tooth" off.

Yeah I just need to play around with the SBC some more and check all my plumbing connections. But the car is still a blast to drive.

Thanks Jay/Alberto!
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Old 11-18-2008, 07:51 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crow2004 View Post
^F10X^

Lexus tech said it was one "tooth" off.

Yeah I just need to play around with the SBC some more and check all my plumbing connections. But the car is still a blast to drive.

Thanks Jay/Alberto!
Man, i got to the house right after you left. I hope you enjoyed the ride home. The car felt much stronger on the road than on the dyno. Let me know what you thought about the car and how it felt. I'm curious. Thanks for taking your time with us on your car.

Jay
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