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post #61 of 73 (permalink) Old 10-15-2006, 09:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by is300tt
hey lambchop i complete yanked of the oem FPR can i leave it like that instead of pinching it close and putting putty on it..or is it a must to leave the oem FPR...
Well here's the thing to consider...with the IS300s returnless fuel system, the fuel pump supplies all the fuel pressure and volume to the rail, any excess is directed back into the tank after passing through the FPR. The stock FPR's job is keep the pressure steady. You can yank the FPR out of the picture but you're going to need to find a way to seal up the exposed opening since fuel will come out of it.

It's a 5 minute job to knead and roll some fuel putty, insert as much as possible inside the FPR, pinch the opening shut, and cover more putty over the opening. Your other easy solution is finding someone with access to a TIG welder and weld it shut. Stay away from exhaust shops that have MIG welders, those welders will melt the aluminum and destroy the FPR. I learned that the hard way.
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post #62 of 73 (permalink) Old 10-15-2006, 11:49 PM
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thanx mr.lambchops i'm going to put the FPR back and putty the hole thanx + rep

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post #63 of 73 (permalink) Old 10-17-2006, 08:20 PM
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is the fuel putty the stuff you use to repair a hole in the fuel tank

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post #64 of 73 (permalink) Old 10-17-2006, 08:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigkahuna2187
is the fuel putty the stuff you use to repair a hole in the fuel tank
Yes it is.
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post #65 of 73 (permalink) Old 10-17-2006, 08:53 PM
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good because thats what i bought

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post #66 of 73 (permalink) Old 10-17-2006, 09:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by is300tt
good because thats what i bought
Don't be cheap with the putty and use it sparingly though.

1. Roll it up very thinly and insert as much as you can into the opening of the FPR.

2. Once it's filled, grab a small screw driver and push it as far as you can so it really forces the putty inside.

3. Repeat the "filling" process till you can't put any more putty inside.

4. Pinch the opening of the FPR closed, now the putty when it hardens up with act like a wedge allowing no fuel to escape.

5. Put more putty around the opening of the FPR and voila...you're done...
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post #67 of 73 (permalink) Old 10-17-2006, 10:01 PM
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done deal thanx...

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post #68 of 73 (permalink) Old 05-07-2008, 09:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lambchop11078 View Post


1. Connects to a rubber line that's in the tank already, leave that alone.

2. Connects to nothing, leave that alone.

3. Snip the black line, close off the end of the stock FPR. The return line should come through the hole near the Walbro pig tail then connect to where the stock FPR was connected to.
I know this is an old post but I was reading it and was a little confuse of one part of it, one guy say not to do it this way cause the return gas will go to the other tank and not the main while others say to do it the way it was posted. I just want to make sure I'm doing this the right way so if anyone knows how to please help.
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post #69 of 73 (permalink) Old 05-07-2008, 09:39 PM
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Thats the right way to do it

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post #70 of 73 (permalink) Old 12-23-2009, 04:41 PM
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Bringing one more back from the dead.... I read through this and i'm lost on one last item. How does the new line in the tank connect to the "white ventricle" does it simply push on and hose clamp? Or do I need to tee into the existing black rubber hose shown in #3?
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post #71 of 73 (permalink) Old 12-24-2009, 09:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mpashnt View Post
Bringing one more back from the dead.... I read through this and i'm lost on one last item. How does the new line in the tank connect to the "white ventricle" does it simply push on and hose clamp? Or do I need to tee into the existing black rubber hose shown in #3?


Snip the black line on #3, the return line connects to the white part of the plastic jet valve/white ventricle. The other side of the black line that goes to the stock fuel pressure regulator needs to be closed either by welding it shut, shoving fuel putty or JB weld around it.
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post #72 of 73 (permalink) Old 08-15-2012, 01:12 PM
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hi i am a new here, I just completed a 1jz vvti swap on my IS. I did the fuel return and followed all the instructions i got from right here on the forum. The thing is that the car starts and idles fine but the gas warning light keeps blinking. The cluster shows half tank which is about right but the light keeps flashing. When the car is started everything is fine but within a couple of minutes it happens. Any ideas of what might be causing this? Yes i bypassed the FPR and blocked it off.
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post #73 of 73 (permalink) Old 03-16-2017, 07:25 AM
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Fuel Return Line

Quote:
Originally Posted by Chancy1jz View Post
hi i am a new here, I just completed a 1jz vvti swap on my IS. I did the fuel return and followed all the instructions i got from right here on the forum. The thing is that the car starts and idles fine but the gas warning light keeps blinking. The cluster shows half tank which is about right but the light keeps flashing. When the car is started everything is fine but within a couple of minutes it happens. Any ideas of what might be causing this? Yes i bypassed the FPR and blocked it off.
Hello, Did you get it solved? or anyone please...
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