Aristo 2JZ-GTE VVTi Swap Doc - Lexus IS Forum
User Tag List

 2Likes
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #1 of 795 (permalink) Old 12-13-2007, 05:19 AM Thread Starter
Altruist
 
wingzero's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Houston, Tx
Posts: 4,095
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 17 Post(s)
           
Aristo 2JZ-GTE VVTi Swap Doc

Mods, this is not done, but by all means sticky if necessary. Also, all you swap/turbo guru's please post any corrections if necessary and I'll update my post.

This is not 100% done and I will be updating as I make more and updating pics as I find them somewhere in the 2TB on my computer...haha Enjoy!

How Ėto- swap 2JZ-GTE VVTi in an IS300


Throughout the years the 1st Gen IS has been around, many have done some very innovative things to the car. Be it turbo, supercharger, NOS, suspension, sound, engine swap whatever the case may be. There has never been a good guide to swapping an engine for the IS. Well we should change that right now.
My choice of performing an engine swap over buying a turbo kit was PURELY on the uniqueness factor. Let me start off by saying this:
IT IS MUCH MUCH EASIER TO INSTALL A TURBO KIT ON THE GE MOTOR!!!!!
Putting a kit on the motor is easier and faster and COULD possibly be cheaper. Each circumstance is different when purchasing an engine, but the kit will always be priced the same.
And now without further delay, the install!!

2JZ-GE Removal

Your first step should be to remove the engine. I will not go into detail on how to do this, because if you have no clue how to remove an engine, DO NOT DO THIS SWAP!!! You will make a $40K paperweight. I will give you some tips on removing the engine.
Start from the rear and work your way to the front.
If you feel like you wonítí remember what is what, label them. If you donít know what the parts are called then go buy some rolls of different colored tape and put a piece of 1 color on both ends. That way when youíre putting it back together, youíre just matching colors, just like assembling a Dell Trust me; it helps more than you think. (ESPECIALLY if you donít have a TSRM)
Itís beneficial to remove the upper radiator support. Makes pulling/dropping the engine a breeze.
Any bolts you remove either, screw them back in the holes so you donít lose them or place them in a plastic zip lock bag and label them. (There will be ALOT of bolts from start to finish)
Okay now that you have that done, itís time to remove your accessories, unless you are buying new ones.

Pick-a-Part from the 2JZ-GE

You will need to remove the following:
Power Steering Pump
A/C Compressor
Alternator
Starter
Water temp sensor (this is located right behind the water pump attached to the block if memory serves)

And obviously the wiring harness, unless you are going to go with the Aristo harness. (LABEL EVERY CONNECTION PLEASE!!!) Yes they should all connect in only 1 place but this will help you during the rerouting process; as you can work it around where the connections are physically. It will also help you identify what connections to extend if needed.

Repair/Replace/Maintenance on 2JZ-GTE VVTi

This is the PERFECT time to perform this on the new motor, BEFORE you drop it in. Things are going to get VERY TIGHT, VERY FAST once that bad boy is dropped.
Remove all the accessories you took from the GE and replace the GTE counterparts. Make sure you put NEW gaskets, O rings, clamps, oil filter etc.
Also, do yourself a favor; buy a new timing belt and spark plugs NOW. Inspect the spark plug wires and coils. I believe you can use wires and coils from either engine as they are the same. However, it may be beneficial to use the coils from the GE cuz you know they work!!
You could take this opportunity to remove the fuel rail and get your injectors cleaned/replaced IF you like.
Depending on what transmission you are going to use, remove the Aristo tranny and replace with yours. If you are going to use the stock IS tranny, YOU MUST USE THE IS TORQUE CONVERTER or you will have to modify your drive shaft. The Aristo tranny is a tad bit longer and the TQ is fatter and a bit longer too. But the biggest thing is itís a 4sp and the IS has a 5sp.
Also take this moment to upgrade your valve body on the IS transmission. Itís a WHOLE LOT easier to install the kit with the transmission on the floor upside down. You donít have to worry about any check balls falling out or any levers snapping out of place. VERY EASY. Make sure you have an air ratchet for this, your wrist will thank you over and over again. At least 40 bolts to remove the VB.
Reattach the tranny to the engine. DO NOT FILL with fluid at this point. But make sure the converter does have fluid.

Transfer of Wiring Harness from 2JZ-GE VVTi to 2JZ-GTE VVTi

You can do this many different ways. Disassemble the harness brackets/sheaths and put the other harness in those. Completely reroute it the way you want.
My method was as follows:
Connect the fuel injectors and work your way around it. The IS harness can be rerouted very nicely if done properly. TAKE YOUR TIME and GO SLOW. No need to rush, this is VERY, VERY important. Every connection on the IS harness will get used. On the other hand, every connection on the Aristo motor will NOT. This is mainly on the exhaust side. Mostly VSVís under the #1 turbo and what not. There is also a turbo pressure sensor that wonít get connected. I believe right under that is a valve where that is connected to the intake chamber. You may want to keep note of that. That is the nipple I used for my BOV. But any open port will do. You can also remove any connections on the engine that you are not using. Any extra room in there is beneficial.....trust me!
As for the vacuum lines, here is where you can go either way:
If your engine is complete and I mean complete than all your vacuum lines should be connected and routed properly. Then you can keep them there and use the stock BOV if you prefer. OR
You can remove all the vacuum lines above the turboís and plug up everything. Then add the BOV of your choice to one of the IC pipes. I used HKS SSQ. This method maybe easier and more widely used but itís up to you.

Mods to Aristo Engine

Might I suggest if you are going to perform the TTC mod (this enables both turboís to be on at all times thus eliminating the sequential setup) you do it NOW! Once the engine is in the bay, NOT GONNA HAPPEN. I believe there are multiple ways to do this. I removed the valves that are attached to the gates that restrict/allow exhaust on the turboís. After you remove them, you will need to wire the gates open. You can use hanger wire or fabricate your own solution. I used a combination of both. Itís up to you though.
One of the major issues that TeckIS300 and I both ran into was the #2 Turbo (rear). This turbo will interfere with the wiring harness that runs above the tunnel on the firewall of the engine bay. I followed Teckís solution and shaving some meat off the turbo and inlet pipe. You will need to get this to a machinist to make sure it is done properly. I believe itís about 5/8 of an inch between both pieces. Removing the parts is very easy, 2 bolts on the pipe and there is a ring clamp youíll have to remove to take the rear housing of the turbo off. You may also need to grind a bit of the small pipe next to the rear inlet pipe. Youíll see what Iím talking about once you try to put the pipe back on the turbo. It will hit that smaller pipe, so get your grinder out and grind some off both pipes. Make sure everything is flush.
Any other mods please, please do them with the motor out of the engine bay.

Mods to IS Engine Bay

Okay, here is where the tricky stuff goes into play. These things SHOULD be done to make your ease of dropping in the engine better and just plain old common sense. Okay here is what needs to be done.
ABS Relocation Ė Some have gotten it to work with just moving it slightly to the left. I went with relocating next to the battery. This will take some time depending on how you get it done. Some can do it with a tube bender, but the mexicans do it with bare hands...LOL . You will need at minimum tube cutter and a flaring tool. Both are relatively cheap. Unbolt the brake lines and hoses from the ABS. You may want to plug the lines or let the fluid drain or you will have greasy, greasy hands. Modify or make a bracket for the ABS box and set where you want it. (on battery tray) Measure the distance from the first bend along the firewall to the ABS unit itself. Add a few inches more just in case. You make want to mark what line goes where so they all go back in the same port. Get your cutter and cut the line. Now for the flare, you can do this now or after you reshape the line, up to you. Make sure you put the bolt on the line BEFORE you start to flare it. Also if this is your first time flaring lines, practice on the piece of the line you cut off first. Donít own yourself. At this point, start to shape the line so the end meets the port on the ABS unit, either by hand or bending tool. Make sure you donít do any 180 degree or sharp bends. The lines are pretty durable but why chance it. Once youíre done with that do the rest. Make sure there are no leaks on the ABS unit or you will get owned...
Heater core pipes Ė These you will HAVE TO CUT. Cut them down to about 1 inch. I know that seems like itís not enough, but they should be fine.
Rear wiring harness Ė this is the reason you modified the rear turbo. Pull the harness up a bit and stick it between the 2 heater core pipes. This will put it in a better place when you drop the engine in. Instead of the pipe mashing the harness, it will slightly touch/lay on it. This pipe is the cold (with respect to how hot the other one gets) one so you should be fine. P4ssm
***to be continued ***

01 MSM E-Shift ZGMF-X10A Freedom
- Full OEM Aristo 2JZ-GTE conversion :)

Looking to do an Aristo swap?
Aristo Swap with IS ECU
Aristo Swap with Aristo ECU

Last edited by wingzero; 04-10-2012 at 06:52 PM.
wingzero is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 795 (permalink) Old 12-13-2007, 05:54 AM
Altruist
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: GPS
Posts: 3,595
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
           
Very good write up and I was planning on this in the future once I pay off my car and have some dough to blow.

Enjoy 2day n think about 2morrow
fyeung04msm is offline  
post #3 of 795 (permalink) Old 12-13-2007, 06:31 AM
Follower
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: hawaii
Posts: 650
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
           
nice right up but wrong section.
eelttam is offline  
 
post #4 of 795 (permalink) Old 12-13-2007, 06:36 AM Thread Starter
Altruist
 
wingzero's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Houston, Tx
Posts: 4,095
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 17 Post(s)
           
o crap your right... MODS.. please move thank you sir!

01 MSM E-Shift ZGMF-X10A Freedom
- Full OEM Aristo 2JZ-GTE conversion :)

Looking to do an Aristo swap?
Aristo Swap with IS ECU
Aristo Swap with Aristo ECU
wingzero is offline  
post #5 of 795 (permalink) Old 12-13-2007, 07:17 AM
Enthusiast
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: New Orleans, La.
Posts: 1,128
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
           
wassup mang, got your issues worked out yet?

Come down to New Orleans, bro! I need a ride!
fiveohfour is offline  
post #6 of 795 (permalink) Old 12-13-2007, 07:31 AM
Guru
 
Squareback's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Davie, FL
Posts: 6,141
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
           
Wow, awesome post. +rep for sharing.
Squareback is offline  
post #7 of 795 (permalink) Old 12-13-2007, 07:40 AM
It's 5 o'clock somewhere.
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Kirtland, Ohio
Posts: 6,017
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
           
Added to this sticky: ALL boost related Questions answered!! Click Here!! under the name "How to: Aristo 2JZ-GTE VVTi Swap."

2004 GAM Sportdesign Turbo: Sold
2003 Yamaha R6 Limited Edition
2005 Ford F150 FX4

Lexotic Concepts MW 007
300iss is offline  
post #8 of 795 (permalink) Old 12-13-2007, 07:46 AM Thread Starter
Altruist
 
wingzero's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Houston, Tx
Posts: 4,095
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 17 Post(s)
           
Quote:
Originally Posted by 300iss View Post
Added to this sticky: ALL boost related Questions answered!! Click Here!! under the name "How to: Aristo 2JZ-GTE VVTi Swap."
Thanks you sir! O wow....i just noticed my first thread is there too....haha I have made it big time haha

I just hope someone will benefit from my experiences and have that much more info to help them during their swap!

01 MSM E-Shift ZGMF-X10A Freedom
- Full OEM Aristo 2JZ-GTE conversion :)

Looking to do an Aristo swap?
Aristo Swap with IS ECU
Aristo Swap with Aristo ECU
wingzero is offline  
post #9 of 795 (permalink) Old 12-13-2007, 07:48 AM
Virgin Magnet
 
somguy2u's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 8,669
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 42 Post(s)
           
too many badges in this town...

TUI
Motorsports
Own the dream

LC SSI 006
SWTEA Talon

Last edited by somguy2u; 12-13-2007 at 03:41 PM.
somguy2u is offline  
post #10 of 795 (permalink) Old 12-13-2007, 07:49 AM
Virgin Magnet
 
somguy2u's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 8,669
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 42 Post(s)
           
i may just leave it as a sticky on it's own people tend to not read the generic ones.

TUI
Motorsports
Own the dream

LC SSI 006
SWTEA Talon

Last edited by somguy2u; 12-13-2007 at 03:42 PM.
somguy2u is offline  
post #11 of 795 (permalink) Old 12-13-2007, 03:40 PM
私の陰茎は巨大である
 
Phillzpeed's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Akron, Ohio
Posts: 5,678
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
           
Very nice write up!



Just felt like adding another badge to this thread...

Lexotic Concepts z MW002
Project Silver Monster

The Part Out Hath Begun
Click here for my HUGE part-out thread!

2002 CW IS300 172K mi and counting!
Phillzpeed is offline  
post #12 of 795 (permalink) Old 12-13-2007, 03:49 PM
Follower
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Metairie, Louisiana 70002
Posts: 516
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
           
nice write up man. I been waiting for something like this to be posted. + rep

SOLD2003 GGP IS300 - JoeZ Gen II Intake pipe w/ Blitz drop in filter, HKS Carbon-Ti Hiper, Mazzuri Header and y-pipe, JDM Shorty Antenna, JDM non-Smokers Box, Fog light mod
Next up Suspension, Tires, and Brakes
My parts gathering link
http://my.is/forums/f90/winter-shopp...-parts-372470/
IwantaIS300 is offline  
post #13 of 795 (permalink) Old 12-26-2007, 08:24 AM
Lurker
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Wichita Falls, TX
Posts: 98
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
           
How did you run the vacuum lines for the stock waste gate actuators? More importantly, what did you do with the second vacuum ports on them?
Almost Stock TSi is offline  
post #14 of 795 (permalink) Old 12-27-2007, 11:17 AM Thread Starter
Altruist
 
wingzero's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Houston, Tx
Posts: 4,095
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 17 Post(s)
           
Quote:
Originally Posted by Almost Stock TSi View Post
How did you run the vacuum lines for the stock waste gate actuators? More importantly, what did you do with the second vacuum ports on them?
All my actuators have been removed and all open lines have been plugged up. The gates they actually control have been hard wired open. More like a free flowing TT setup.

01 MSM E-Shift ZGMF-X10A Freedom
- Full OEM Aristo 2JZ-GTE conversion :)

Looking to do an Aristo swap?
Aristo Swap with IS ECU
Aristo Swap with Aristo ECU
wingzero is offline  
post #15 of 795 (permalink) Old 12-27-2007, 01:11 PM
Lurker
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Wichita Falls, TX
Posts: 98
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
           
Quote:
Originally Posted by wingzero View Post
All my actuators have been removed and all open lines have been plugged up. The gates they actually control have been hard wired open. More like a free flowing TT setup.
I'm not talking about the solenoids. I mean the 2 actual waste gate actuators that control the exhaust flappers that control the boost level. All I was wondering was if you used regular vacuum plugs and how they have held up so far in the underhood heat.
Almost Stock TSi is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

  Lexus IS Forum > 1st-Gen IS300 > Go Faster

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Lexus IS Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself. If your address is invalid, you will likely lose access to the site.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in









Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Current users viewing this Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome