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Old 12-26-2011, 01:09 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Another Amp + Sub + Stock Headunit thread.

Since I have nothing to do for the next 2 weeks, I thought I might as well throw a sub in my is. My plan is to get a decent amp + sub in my car while keeping my stock head unit/speakers for around $150. I have searched and researched about amps, subs, and stock head units for the past 4 hours and I still have some things that I'm not sure about. The method I've heard many people do is to tap into the rear 6x9 speakers using a line-out converter which then leads to the line-in of the amp followed with the line-out going to the sub. I heard that this may effect the sound quality but I was wondering by how much and if installing RCA's to the stock HU would be a much better option.

I've done some shopping around also and this is what I feel like would fit my budget while using quality equipment. I'm shooting for a bass that can get the low tones more than loud kicks. I was wondering if anyone has heard bad things about the sub and if it would work with the amp I plan to get.

Kicker - Comp 12" Single-Voice-Coil 4-Ohm Subwoofer ($50):
Kicker - Comp 12" Single-Voice-Coil 4-Ohm Subwoofer - C124

Rockford Fosgate Amp ($80):
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...ME-R150-2.html

Last edited by reodan92; 12-26-2011 at 04:01 AM.
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Old 12-26-2011, 07:42 AM   #2 (permalink)
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If you plan to run those speakers, you may want to get a more powerful amp because you're only going to be able to supply 50wrms to a speaker that can handle max 150wrms. Sure it will work, but the speakers will be under powered. You are better off getting an amp rated for 150wrms x 2 channels, or get a class D mono rated at 300wrms@2 ohms to get the full potential out of your speakers you have chosen. In my opinion, it's better to have an amp that can drive the speakers rated max wrms.

As far as using a lloc, I can't vouch for it personally, but from what I've read and heard, you are going to have a loss in both your rear speakers and the sound quality of your subs may not be as great as you might imagine. If you want to keep the stock HU and add preouts, you're in luck! Took me awhile to find an updated thread that actually has working images. This would be your best bet if you really want to hold onto the OEM HU.

Because the other Pre-Outs thread failed

you would need to buy a set up for your female RCA plugs, similar to below.
http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f1...dvr/image3.jpg

or, something like below...
http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a...-MOUNT//1.html
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Last edited by jasonm4; 12-26-2011 at 07:49 AM. Reason: added
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Old 12-26-2011, 07:41 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jasonm4444 View Post
If you plan to run those speakers, you may want to get a more powerful amp because you're only going to be able to supply 50wrms to a speaker that can handle max 150wrms. Sure it will work, but the speakers will be under powered. You are better off getting an amp rated for 150wrms x 2 channels, or get a class D mono rated at 300wrms@2 ohms to get the full potential out of your speakers you have chosen. In my opinion, it's better to have an amp that can drive the speakers rated max wrms.

As far as using a lloc, I can't vouch for it personally, but from what I've read and heard, you are going to have a loss in both your rear speakers and the sound quality of your subs may not be as great as you might imagine. If you want to keep the stock HU and add preouts, you're in luck! Took me awhile to find an updated thread that actually has working images. This would be your best bet if you really want to hold onto the OEM HU.

Because the other Pre-Outs thread failed

you would need to buy a set up for your female RCA plugs, similar to below.
http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f1...dvr/image3.jpg

or, something like below...
2 RCA JACKS, PC MOUNT | AllElectronics.com
I plan to just run the 1 sub through the skipass, I think the numbers you gave me are for if I were to run 2 of the kickers. I assume the amp would be sufficient to power the one sub at 150rms unless I'm incorrect.

Yeah from reading around a LOC is not what I really want, thank you very much for that link. I wasn't able to find a good tutorial for adding preouts but after seeing that, im a bit scared to try it. I haven't done any major soldering jobs, the biggest thing I've done is modding a xbox 360 controller.
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Old 12-26-2011, 07:50 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by reodan92 View Post
I plan to just run the 1 sub through the skipass, I think the numbers you gave me are for if I were to run 2 of the kickers. I assume the amp would be sufficient to power the one sub at 150rms unless I'm incorrect.

Yeah from reading around a LOC is not what I really want, thank you very much for that link. I wasn't able to find a good tutorial for adding preouts but after seeing that, im a bit scared to try it. I haven't done any major soldering jobs, the biggest thing I've done is modding a xbox 360 controller.
My mistake, I don't know why I was thinking two subs

As far as the mod, I wish the old link had working images as it was a bit more descriptive. The only thing I can really suggest other than the OEM HU mod is to swap it out. Not the info you probably want to hear. Soldering can actually be pretty easy after some practicing.
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Old 12-26-2011, 10:43 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jasonm4444 View Post
My mistake, I don't know why I was thinking two subs

As far as the mod, I wish the old link had working images as it was a bit more descriptive. The only thing I can really suggest other than the OEM HU mod is to swap it out. Not the info you probably want to hear. Soldering can actually be pretty easy after some practicing.
Lol no worries, I thought I had no idea what I was doing for a sec. Yeah I would love to keep the stock HU just because I love the OEM look and because it's cheaper than buying a new HU .

I was also looking at this cheaper amp:
Kenwood KAC-1502S (KAC1502S) 350W 2-Channel Stereo Amp w/ LPF

It has a speaker input level built into the amp which would seem much easier than buying the rockford amp + a LOC. According to Crutchfield, this method won't reduce sound quality but I was wondering if anyone has had experience with this. From the sound of things, this is the method I'll most likely go with.

General Amplifier Installation Tips
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Old 12-26-2011, 11:57 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Just my .02 on this. Tapping into a amplified speaker signal and running it through a LOC or speaker inputs of an amp will definitely not sound as good as if you could run a direct pre-amp signal to the amp. That being said though, unless you have the two different setups running side by side to compare, you'd probably be hard pressed to hear a difference. I had a sub running off the rear speakers and stock HU for the longest time before swapping out my entire system and I was plenty happy with it.... until my new system was complete!
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Old 12-27-2011, 12:08 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drinkmalk View Post
Just my .02 on this. Tapping into a amplified speaker signal and running it through a LOC or speaker inputs of an amp will definitely not sound as good as if you could run a direct pre-amp signal to the amp. That being said though, unless you have the two different setups running side by side to compare, you'd probably be hard pressed to hear a difference. I had a sub running off the rear speakers and stock HU for the longest time before swapping out my entire system and I was plenty happy with it.... until my new system was complete!
Thanks for the input! When you had the sub running off the rear speakers, did you do use a LOC or the speaker level input off the amp? Also was the sound quality pretty much the same or could you tell it was worse?
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Old 12-27-2011, 06:08 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by reodan92 View Post
Thanks for the input! When you had the sub running off the rear speakers, did you do use a LOC or the speaker level input off the amp? Also was the sound quality pretty much the same or could you tell it was worse?
I had speaker level inputs on my amp. Until I installed my new HU and new cabin speakers, I thought the sub by itself with stock everything else sounded very good. After I got my Eclipse HU and true line outs to the sub, and another amp for my cabin speakers, only then did I realize how much better replacing everything sounded. Bass-wise, everything was just more accurate; the "boomy" bass notes were tighter and the bass that hit, they hit harder. By the way, I initially kept the same sub, amp, and enclosure when I first switched to the aftermarket HU.
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Old 12-29-2011, 01:40 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drinkmalk View Post
I had speaker level inputs on my amp. Until I installed my new HU and new cabin speakers, I thought the sub by itself with stock everything else sounded very good. After I got my Eclipse HU and true line outs to the sub, and another amp for my cabin speakers, only then did I realize how much better replacing everything sounded. Bass-wise, everything was just more accurate; the "boomy" bass notes were tighter and the bass that hit, they hit harder. By the way, I initially kept the same sub, amp, and enclosure when I first switched to the aftermarket HU.
Cool, can't wait to see how mine will sound but from the sounds of thing, I'll probably love it

Amp should be coming in tomorrow! The back has been stripped and the ghetto dynomatting has begun. I'll try to get some pics up tomorrow. I still need to get a box made but I have no idea who would be able to cut it for me.
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Old 12-31-2011, 03:13 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Tomorrow will be the only clear day for me to install my amp and I was wondering what I should tap into for the power controller wire? I've heard many different ways but which way would be the best and easiest? I will be using the stock headunit. I heard that I could just run the wire straight to the cigarette fuse?

Last edited by reodan92; 12-31-2011 at 03:51 AM.
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Old 12-31-2011, 08:15 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by reodan92 View Post
Tomorrow will be the only clear day for me to install my amp and I was wondering what I should tap into for the power controller wire? I've heard many different ways but which way would be the best and easiest? I will be using the stock headunit. I heard that I could just run the wire straight to the cigarette fuse?
yea, you can use the cigarette fuse. What I would do is buy and install a fuse tap, throw a 2 amp fuse in it to avoid tapping wiring and to keep it neat and on it's on circuit. BUSS makes it, called mini-add-a-circuit(available any auto store). Remember that your amp will be on any time your car ignition is on. You could throw an inline switch on it. If you're using a line convertor, some have a remote wire ouput.

Buy Bussmann ATM Fuse Tap BP/HHH at Advance Auto Parts
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Old 12-31-2011, 02:41 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jasonm4444 View Post
yea, you can use the cigarette fuse. What I would do is buy and install a fuse tap, throw a 2 amp fuse in it to avoid tapping wiring and to keep it neat and on it's on circuit. BUSS makes it, called mini-add-a-circuit(available any auto store). Remember that your amp will be on any time your car ignition is on. You could throw an inline switch on it. If you're using a line convertor, some have a remote wire ouput.

Buy Bussmann ATM Fuse Tap BP/HHH at Advance Auto Parts
Awesome thank you. I just realized that since I am running my power cables on the passenger side, is there a fuse I can tap into from the passenger side fuse box that would also work?
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Old 12-31-2011, 03:33 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Awesome thank you. I just realized that since I am running my power cables on the passenger side, is there a fuse I can tap into from the passenger side fuse box that would also work?
Absolutely. Tap off the 7.5A IGN fuse in the passenger kick panel. I'd be the same as tapping off the cigarette/outlet fuse. The remote only needs a few milliamps at best anyway.
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Old 01-02-2012, 02:00 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Awesome, everything worked out perfect. Just gotta finish up my box and I'll be all done!

+rep!
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