my.IS - Lexus IS Forum - Go Faster

In need of some assistance with First Start on ProEFI - Basemaps? .srz File?

antISanISfreak — Wed, 16 May 2012 04:24:18 GMT

I purchased a Pro128 from SP a few months ago, and have just gotten around to installing the unit. I'm having trouble with first start on the Engine. The vehicle is a 02 IS300 with FIC900 injectors, on E85. The car was running prior to going under the knife on Factory ECU with Emanage Ult, running beautifully.

I followed the pinout for installation into the IS to the "T", and have gone over all my wiring. I am attempting to retain the factor ECU for smog here in Cali, so I have ran the Pro EFI in parallel giving it full control of injectors, and coil, while tapping signals for TPS, Crank, Cam, Etc. I have NOT however tapped into any of the DBW functions such as the motor clutch coils or throttle motors themselves; is this required for the unit to run the vehicle?

The ECU was flashed by Jason@ProEFI to be used on the car, but I'm not sure if it is a start-up map.

I am able to connect to the ECU with the CAN cable, and return good values from the TPS, however some of the Temp number are a little off. I do know that it requires offline changes, but I have no .srz file to create a flash-able file with.

Does anyone have a WORKING basemap to "lend" me? I am also looking for the .srz file.

All help and input welcomed. I would be happy for someone to make mention of something I may have overlooked.

lost in emanage ultimate

itrllc — Wed, 16 May 2012 01:54:14 GMT

I need PARAMETER SETTINGS for a base map to get my car started, We have had trouble choosing the proper engine code to get the car started. It will run for a few minutes then shut off and then not at all. Or the car would not start, we have done and checked everything with the car and it seems to be fine, when making changes to the fueling tables to scale the 660 injectors nothing really happens. With the stock computer alone with stock injectors we can start the car and it runs smooth at idle up to 3000 rpm with the emanage I cant even get the car to idle properly.

2001 Lexus IS300
Engine Mods
-2jz-ge block, stock crank, eagle rods, acl bearings, 8.0.1 86.5 je pistons,
-2jz-GE(VVTi) Head fully ported head with stock valves, 272 cams and springs zero settings not degreed vvt active
-Fueling 660cc injectors, aeromotive 340lph pump, aeromotive rrfpr, returned modified fuel rails
-Turbonetics 71/63 supra intercooled system, six into one stainless manifold full three inch exhaust
-Greddy emanage ulimate
-Boomslang harness intake sensor and coolant sensor
-IS300 stock ecu, stock maf sensor,
-Add ons Greddy 3bar 5v map sensor

Need to get proper jumper settngs and if you can assist with a proper base starting map for the Ultimate that would be great.

Help with supra axles & differential!

Sandino — Tue, 15 May 2012 14:54:34 GMT

I searched here & supra forums but couldn't find a definate Answer...I'm having a supra 3.13 diff put in my is300 but my question is for those running a 3.13 supra diff or a GS 3.26...what are the differences between the auto TT left axle & the manual TT left axle? Toyota wants $640 for each left axle napa wants $59.95 for a auto TT left axle (no listing for a manual left axle)...big difference in price! Which axles areyou guys using for these swaps? Will the 2 auto TT left axle work?...thanks guys.

GTE Fuel Pressure Regulator

deadaim00 — Mon, 14 May 2012 13:55:28 GMT

Quick question here guys. Newly boosted, this weekend! It's awesome by the way! But, I was looking to replace my stock GE FPR with the one from the GTE so I can get the 1:1 rising rate. I have been looking for about 2 hours now and cannot find anywhere to purchase one.. Has anyone had any luck with this? I have called all the local auto stores just to be told they cant get them. Not sure if I will be calling Toyota next.

Any insight would be great!
Thanks guys!

Also, sorry if this breaks any rules! I read through them to make sure, just in case though!

Another note, I found a few around the internet, but I am not 100% sure they are the rising rate GTE ones. Is there any giveaways I can look for to be sure?

w58

ricesteve94 — Sun, 13 May 2012 00:02:12 GMT

im sure this has been answered but i cant find it. im in the middle of a turbo build and im going to upgrade to the w58 transmission unless i come across a r154. but what will i all need to swap my w55 to the W58?

Aristo Custom Oil Catch can install.

Ianx12 — Fri, 11 May 2012 22:55:46 GMT

Catch can greddy knock off from eBay. Some wire mesh, sheet aluminum. total price about $70

Here are a few pictures and a crude drawing to show the design .

FYI on vband flange

Eminence — Fri, 11 May 2012 01:27:57 GMT

As I am going over my car and tighten stuff I noticed one thing, the exhaust were moving around at the vband connection. I could not figure it out for a life of me, so I pulled the clamps off and noticed that the flanges at two connections were different diameters. The diameter difference were very small (about 3/16") but enough to produce a problem.

So I did a little research and found that there'are no standard outside diameter for v-band systems, this mean that every manufacturer will produce slightly different diameters. So when you are doing exhaust system, purchase flanges from the same manufacturer.

I am not sure if they will completely seal or not since I haven't had a chance to check for leakage.

1jzvvti is300 air conditioning problem

memphiss13 — Thu, 10 May 2012 12:11:45 GMT

I've had my 1jzvvti swap running in my IS for about 6 months now and of course procrastinated on this issue till now when its getting hot. The problem that I have is when I turn the a/c on it works for about 5-10sec and then shuts off and the a/c light starts blinking. Filling it with freon was pretty annoying with this happening.

For a little background, I am running the IS ecu and the jzx100 ecu in tandem. The main engine harness is the one from the IS just with slightly modified routing for this engine. I know a lot of people run dual ecu's on these cars, but I don't see many of these swaps. The car runs and drives great and for those few seconds that the a/c works it blows cold so I know I have enough freon in it.

Any help from you guys that have had similar experiences is greatly appreciated.

is300 turbo build 25% done :(

k954triniz — Thu, 10 May 2012 05:04:03 GMT

2001 is300
im kevin and this whole thing started off as just a timing belt water pump and all the other stuff
then my car over heated right before i started i got to do it
found out my head gasket blew
so i started my build

cp pistons not the best but good for about 450
gte rods
gte head gasket
arp head studs
plus all the regular timing change stuff

found out i had cracked cylinders
i bought the wrong oil pan mines was terriblely bent

i need alot
ill put the engine in NA brake in the motor mostly to save up the money to complete it

pics under

3sge 4th Gen Beams + 3sgte 4th Gen OR Turbo 3SGE 4th gen

Piston_ — Wed, 09 May 2012 01:45:09 GMT

Hello everybody,

I have a Toyota Altezza RS200 Z edition, and I am looking for the best way to make it turbo, but I am just considering a 3S solution, maybe making 3SGE turbo, or 3SGTE head onto 3SGE Block, because it would be easier and reliable I guess, so I came to this forum because here are many guys who knows better these engines.
Some time ago I�ve heard about this solution. Because of that I�m thinking about buying a 3SGTE 4th generation, part of a Caldina GTT ST215, I�ve heard (because I haven�t seen that engine) one guy here in Peru, made a powerful beams 3SGTE with the following setup.

Block (from 3SGE Beams Altezza)
Sump (from 3SGE Beams Altezza)
Oil pump (from 3SGE Beams Altezza)
Flywheel (from 3SGE Beams Altezza)
Clutch (from 3SGE Beams Altezza)
Manifold + throttle 80 (from 3SGE Beams Altezza)
Engine mounts (from 3SGE Beams Altezza)
Gearbox (from 3SGE Beams Altezza)

Rods (from 3SGTE Caldina GT4 ST246)
Pistons (from 3SGTE Caldina GT4 ST246)
Crankshaft (from 3SGTE Caldina GT4 ST246)
ECU (from 3SGTE Caldina GT4 ST246)
Head (from 3SGTE Caldina GT4 ST246)
The only difference is the engine, I guess is a little different between ST215�s and ST246�s 3SGTE.

Do you know if this project is achievable?. If so, I think making this engine with parts of 3SGE 4th generation and 3SGTE 4th generation would be a little expensive than making my 3SGE turbo.
In terms of cost benefit, which option would be the better choice?
Does anyone here know about this works? Which would be the better choice with forged internals and some big turbo? I think making turbo my 3SGE with forged internals would not be stronger than a forged 3SGTE, or I can boost the same PSI with the same turbo on both engines?
- Any idea about oil squirts in 3SGE?
- Any idea about VVT in 3SGE with turbo?

I need some experience and comments from other users.

Regards

How to make your IS300 OEM Aristo Powered!

wingzero — Tue, 08 May 2012 19:04:23 GMT

OEM Aristo Conversion for 01 Lexus IS300

Prerequisites:
1. JDM Aristo 2JZ-GTE VVTi w/4sp E-Shift Automatic (Transmission: 35000 3F450)
2. JDM Aristo 2JZ-GTE VVTi COMPLETE Engine Harness
3. JDM Aristo 2JZ-GTE VVTi ECU w/o Immobilizer (89661 3A470)
4. JDM Aristo 2JZ-GTE VVTi MAF (22204 46010)
5. Lexus IS300 HAHA

The easy stuff
Okay here is where you need to do all maintenance before you put the engine in the car. Just makes more sense and is much easier to remove components while the block is bolted to an engine stand. Here is what I recommend you replace while the engine is on the stand.

Oil Pan Gasket-remove both No.1 and No.2 oil pans and clean surface. Reapply silicone and bolt them back on. VERY CHEAP insurance that it won�t leak and once back on the car, very difficult to remove with the cross member in the way.
Front Main Seal (9031146001) � behind the crank pulley. Rubber ring around the crank shaft
Rear Main Seal (1138146010) � behind the flex plate. Larger Rubber ring that looks just like the front seal
Intake and Exhaust Camshaft Seals (903114002) � you�ll need to remove both pulleys� to get to these
Timing Belt (1356849036) � yea you should know where this is�. 
Timing Belt Tensioner (13540 46030) � small shaft on the left providing tension to the timing belt
Water Pump (1610049846) � Stock 98 Supra Turbo pump is what you want to get
Thermostat (9091603093) � Stock 98 Supra Turbo is what you want to get
Spark Plugs � factory plugs are Denso SK20R11 (Super Long Life) but any plug will do for a 98 Supra Turbo
O2 sensor � there is only 1 sensor so just get a new one.

Optional: These parts are optional. You can just inspect them and replace if you think you need to.

Intake gaskets (17177-46040, 17176-46030) � there are two, the gasket that is against the head and the gasket after the runners
Exhaust gaskets (17173-46020, 17198-46010) � there are two, both are against the head
Turbo Exhaust gaskets (17278-46011) � these go between the turbos and the exhaust manifold. They are rings.
Turbo pipe gaskets (17376-46010) � there should be two one in the rear and the other in the front against the cold side of the turbos
Turbo outlet gaskets (17378-46010) � there should be two, the smaller outlet port on the cold side of both turbos
Oil gaskets for Turbos (15471-46010 x 2, 15472-46010) � should be two lines that go to each turbo and a small gasket for them. They use the exact same gasket so just buy two of them. There is also a gasket for the lines when they connect to the oil pan.
Water gaskets for Turbos (16347-42020) � should be two lines that go into each turbo and a small gasket for them then two other block off plates on the other side for a total of 4 gaskets
Main Head gasket (11115-46052) � yea you know what this is, the annoying one. If you have to replace this DO IT NOW!!!!
Engine Mounts (12361-46190 x 2) � when I pulled my GE engine (130k) them bad boys just fell off. So I had to buy replacements. You can use the IS300 equivalents
Transmission Mount (12371-46160) � the same thing happened to this one. The IS300 equivalent will also be sufficient

Pick a part time
This is where you are just pulling accessories from your original 2JZ-GE engine; since you know those parts are all functioning properly. (Obviously if they aren�t working at the time of your swap you�ll need to either rebuild them or replace them. You can get all factory IS300 parts unless otherwise noted.

Alternator (Aristo PN is different due to the electronics inside the cabin but IS will work just fine)
Power Steering Pump (you will need to modify this a little bit, sounds more than it actually is)
A/C Compressor
Starter (Aristo 28100 46140)
ECT Sensor (it�s been said before that this sensor needs to be swapped but the part numbers are the same so it shouldn�t matter)
Flex Plate (32101 30090 you MUST use the Aristo one. The IS one WILL NOT bolt up to the Aristo torque coverter)
Torque Converter (32000 30360 you must use the Aristo one)
Coil packs � (90919 02216) you can use either set but my advice is to use the set from your original GE engine, you know they work (unless you�ve been having problems of course)

Sensor Status
Alrighty, well chances are pretty high that if you got your engine and it looks good majority of the normal sensors will be on it already. However, the sensors that are necessary to control the turbo�s are usually the ones that are there, but damaged. So there are about 4 of them, make sure you inspect them and check for any cracks on them. If there are any cracks or ports are missing�yep you�re going to need to buy replacements. My advice is to go onto my.is or even supraforums and see if anyone has them lying around. Since most Supra guys (and IS guys for that matter) remove the twins, they in turn remove the sensors. You might be able to get them at MUCH cheaper rate vs. buying them from Toyota. But if you need to purchase new ones, tell the dealer that you have a 98 Supra Turbo as the USDM sensors and JDM sensors are the same part numbers. Here is a pic of the sensors you must have to control the turbos:

You can also use this image to restore the vacuum lines to the engine. It�s pretty clear how they should route and that�s important so they open and close the actuators properly.
For the most part the rest of all the sensors should be on the engine and should be fine, but you should inspect them anyway just to be on the safe side. I�m talking about the oil, knock, camshaft positioning, VVTi, etc. etc.

Engine Bay Modifications

Heater Core Pipes
Once you remove the engine you will see 2 pipes where the rear coolant hoses were plugged into. These pipes stick out much too far for the engine to be dropped so you will need to cut them. I cut mine with a dermal but you could use anything really. You want to cut them down to at least 1 inch long. That should be long enough where you can still clamp the hoses and short enough so the engine will sit right in the engine bay.

ABS Relocation
Okay, I know some people have gone with leaving the ABS box near where it is just moving it a little away from the engine itself. I went ahead and relocated it to where the OEM battery is located. You�ll obviously have to cut and bend the brake lines for this, so if you�ve never done this before be careful. Once you cut the first line�there is no going back.

Engine Harness
Okay here is where you could go 2 different routes. If you are pretty skilled at repining, you could attempt to do this yourself. Or you could send both the IS and the Aristo harness off to Tweak�d Performance to get them �merged�. I went the Tweak�d way cuz I�m not too skilled when it comes to this and this is VERY VERY important. Here is a little information on what is basically happening.

When you hook your Aristo engine harness to the Aristo ECU, the connectors obviously connect just fine. You�ll notice however, that the last two ports on the ECU don�t have connectors. This is because what should be connecting there is the patch loom that is in the ECU box that connects to the body of an Aristo. That being said, you will also notice that there are a few connectors that don�t connect to anything. These are the connectors that are connecting from the engine harness to the patch loom that communicates with the other sensors on the body of the car.

Now when you send both harnesses off to Tweak�d, that�s what they are actually modifying, those 3 connectors that should be connecting to the patch loom. Obviously those should be in an Aristo rather than an IS300. So basically they are taking the connectors off your OEM IS harness and repining the connectors on the Aristo harness that go into the patch loom in your car. The other side of the patch loom that is in the car will connect to 2 remaining ports on the Aristo ECU no problem thus completing the communication circle to allow everything to function. Here is a picture that might make this clearer:

The one connection that I noticed that will not get connected was the sensor on the power steering line. This is mostly because the aristo had a special ECU just for steering since it had 4WS. The IS monitored all that from the ECU, but you should be fine without it.

Automatic Transmission

Clearance Issues
Okay, it gets a little tricky here. Once you drop the engine and transmission in, you�ll notice that the transmission mount is SLIGHTLY off from the factory location. An when I say slightly I mean a � of an inch or less. Now, keep in mind the mount does flex a little so you can muscle it in place and it should still be fine. Assuming you have the adapter plate that will go between the flange of the automatic and the driveshaft, you�ll also notice that flange will hit the shifter assembly box. So um yeah, that�s not going to work too well. You have 2 options here to solve this:
1. Remove the adapter plate and bolt the driveshaft directly to the flange on the transmission. Not quite sure how this would work out, but I opted for solution 2 because I�m sure Toyota put this there for a reason.
2. Lower the transmission slightly so it doesn�t hit the box while it�s turning. This proved to be the easier solution for me. I picked up 4 M10 x 1.25 bolts at about 50mm with matching nuts. Ran me about 12 bucks. I basically put the bolt in and added a washer, nut, and another washer between the transmission mounting plate and the body of the car. As shown below. This should clear about � and inch without lowering the transmission too much for clearance under the car.

Shift lever
Once you put the flange for the driveshaft on the transmission you�ll quickly realize you won�t be able to shift because the lever will hit the adapter thus not allowing you to go thru your gears. What I opted was to extend the lever about 1�� to 1 �� lower so it would clear the adapter plate and allow you to shift properly. This is basically what I did:

If you want to purchase a new lever so you don�t screw up the OEM one the part number: 33501 53020 should be about 35 bucks.
Here is a pic of what it might look like when you are done.

Drive Shaft
The drive shaft will need to be extended a bit so it will reach the Aristo transmission. Also the flange needs to be removed off the factory one and the Aristo one needs to be added. I THINK you could get an SC400 Drive shaft and modify that. I chose to modify the IS one since the rear section is perfect and doesn�t need to be modified at all. Remember you are ONLY modifying the section from the center carrier bearing to the input shaft. If your transmission came with the flange cut off the drive shaft should make it much easier otherwise you�ll need to find a flange that will work. As stated above, I think an SC400 flange is the same and you could use that but not 100% sure. Anyway this is what it should look like when you are done. Oh and the measurement I took was from where the flange couples with the flexible coupling on the driveshaft side�.NOT ON THE TRANSMISSION SIDE. Make sure you get this right or it will be too short when they do the machining. Exactly 27 inches from that flange to the center of the center support bearing. When you install it, insert the transmission side first then the differential side then bolt up the center support bearing. It will fit perfect.

More to come.... :approve:

Sick Video!!!

KennySX — Tue, 08 May 2012 05:02:54 GMT

This guy maybe on the forums but this is CLEAN!!!:approve:

Hiral's Turbo IS300 - Tach Motor Works - YouTube

Greddy Ultimate

Chaco — Mon, 07 May 2012 03:08:26 GMT

Does anyone have a Greddy Ultimate basemap for a fully stock Aristo motor??

thanks in advance

why cant i get into the 12's??

followtheis300 — Sun, 06 May 2012 14:44:55 GMT

my car wont even hit low 13's
little info on the car
borg warner s366
TS 700cc injectors
full 3in exhaust
GTE bottom end and head gasket w\ ARP studs
water meth
20psi
AFR around 12-11.2

my trap speed is 116-120mph but only getting 14.1-13.9sec, 2.xx-3.xx 60 foot. :confused:

oh and on street tires 245\45-18 also 91 octane pump (only thing i got) i noticed the timing goes from 45.5 advanced to like negitive 2-4

help please

CEL p0135 p0141 p0155 p0161 at the same time

azalily — Sat, 05 May 2012 23:49:42 GMT

I'm trying to figure out how to get rid off my CEL's p0135 p0141 p0155 p0161.
My car setup: 2001 IS300, 2JZGTE VVTI, 2JZGTE VVTI auto tranny. Originally, I had the aristo ecu with the wiring working well. No CEL's. But because I live in NJ, I took the aristo ecu and I'm now trying to use the 01 IS300 ECU. I'm only using one O2 sensor vs. 4 that the IS300 needs. First I replaced the O2 that came with the aristo with a universal O2 for a twin turbo USDM supra but I still get the CELs. I even add a resistor to bring up the heater resistance to about 13ohms since the supra O2 was 8ohms. According to my wideband, the car is running rich. What gives? Do I need to use a 2001 IS300 universal O2 sensor? My engine uses the o2 with the oval looking bung that uses 2 bolts to secure to the downpipe.